Just a quick note for you guys.The kits will be shipping out from England hopefully this Friday. I will post up more photo of them when they are here. Chris aka NA&ch will hopefully be making a trip across the state to look at them and I'm sure he will take some photos and give you his impressions s well. As soon as we get the air boxes and pedal adaptors designed and tested we will begin taking orders, right now the ones I have sold are going out to shops and race teams to get their feedback. xlr8r was asking about the plate sizes. They are staight 48 mm for the standard street kit and 52 tapering down to 48 on the street/full race kits. Sorry I haven't been on here more to answer everyones questions but my job makes a lot of demands on my time.
Neil

 

No problem......just stick around and keep us updated.

Alot of times are hopes are raised and then people vanish....lol

 

Nice, 48mm is what I have calculated to be a good size for a street VQ.

 

I hope they shipped today....

bump.

 

I'd love to see your calculations on this....

 

Go to the jenvey site & it has some go info you Throttle body plate sizing. Per there recomendations 48mm is actually a little big for a the amount of power a street VQ would be expected to make, but it seems most ITB setups are a little larger than what Jenveys recomendations since a few other things factor it like throttle plate distance from injectors, horn length, etc.

Another things that makes 48mm seem appropriate is that the OEM intake runners at their most "round" spot, where the lower plenum bolts to the runners, is 48mm.

I've been preparing to make a custom set of ITB's I have been going back & forth between 46mm or 50mm, 48mm is the happy medium.

 

dont want to get off topic, but you said YOU had calculations... my logic tells me that ITB's of the same size as the runners on the plenum will flow WAY more air...

 

I'm very interested to see how this continues to develope.

 

DBW+stock ecu+ ITB's= fail
Emanage,no worky..Full Standalone needed.
Nice hardparts.

 

Bump, subbing for more info.

 

full standalone would not be needed actually....UTEC + Map sensor, in theory, would work just fine (no idea if the resolution is enough, but by eliminating the maf, it should work just fine

 

What happens when the stock ECU throws the car into safe mode cause it does not pick up a TPs sensor?Would the utec over run that?We never tried the UTEC in that set up,although in theory it would work.

 

I would think about these @ the 2k price range, but 3500... that is damn high!

Fortunately when these hit the market it wont be too long before someone else has another version.

 

you would just have to rig up a resistor to send the signal to ecu that the car is always at idle, then tune for that map.

 

Hmmmm...Got me thinking..

 

If you take the MAF out you will also need a temp sensor in addition to the map sensor.

 

It's kind of hard to believe people are considering using a piggyback to tune ITB's. As great & proven as Utec is I think you'll save yourself a lot of trouble by using a standalone. Itb's are known to be difficult to tune & you need a fair amount of resolution to get them running right in the lower RPM's. You might be able to get a decent tune with Utec, but after all the hoops & hurdles you have to jump through will it be worth it in comparison to just going with a standalone?

 

In regards to the TPS don't forget that there is actually two of them. One that is 5-0v and another that is 0v-5v.

 

I would doubt highly anyone would bother coming out with yet another ITB setup, let alone for less money. Around $3k would be the floor for something like this to sell at, given the time and cost of materials to make it (namely, the lower plenum, which is not cheap to make no matter how you do it)

 

On an FI setup I'd agree, on a NA setup though I just don't see it being the case. What hoops and hurdles? A MAP sensor and AIT sensor are by no means hard, and any other certainly not beyond the level that anyone even considering ITB's would be able to accomplish. This is not a mod for a stock motor, and not a mod for anyone looking for the absolute enth degree of NA performance from their built motor.

Let's also not forget not every standalone can control ITB's either, at least out of the box. So the "hurdles" could be the same no matter which route you go.

Would a standalone be better with ITB's on an NA car? Maybe, maybe not - once again, all depends on the level of expertise of the person punching the keys

Like anything else you do to a car, the "hard parts" are only one small component - the person doing the tuning is probably the most under rated, and necessary part of the equation (assuming you are using quality parts that fit and were designed for a specific application and/or function).

Personally, I'm not going for this on my own car as I just don't see the need given my setup (relative to the cost), but I applaud someone for taking the initiative to do it.