Who here has borla headers? That might be next mod after the ECU. I don't which I should get pullies or Headers? What do you guys think?

 

go for the headers.....

 

UR pulley do not provide proper torsional damping and could lead to crankshaft failure later on

maybe go for the Borla True Dual exhaust. 20hp gains

 

Get the pulleys noone has PROVEN they will be unreliable. I just ordered mine for about 345 shipped. And they should add about 10-12 rwhp. I recieved an email fron m the guys at borla saying that their header will only add an extra 12 hp and 10 tq. Most of these gains will be at topend, and will be significantly less if you dont already have an aftermarket exhaust. Plus you can get the pulleys for a couple of hundred dollars less.

 

20hp gains, is that a lot for True Dual exhaust.

 

I like the idea of both, where are the pullies gains advantagous?

 

Ha you may get 3 or 4 HP from pullies and they MAY cause damage over time. For 350 bucks? Pass.

Borla true dual for $620 (avg) that gives 10-20 whp with no adverse effects? Good.

 

I want a Borla true dual, any effect on the warranty? And is it true that the Z's ECU will re-adjust itself to compensate for any gains given by airflow/fuel mods such as headers/exhaust rendering them useless?

 

Your warranty will no longer cover exhaust problems if you go aftermarket.
There has been a lot of debate about the ECM's ability, or lack of ability, to re-adjust/negate mods. All i know for sure is that the damn thing runs hella rich on the fuel side.



There is, however, no sensor that tells the ECM what pulleys the engine is wearing. I think the knock sensor would pick up something wrong in the engine long before it destroyed itself. And if 3 millimeters of rubber is all thats holding my engine together, then i just wasted $30,000. After all, it's not urethane, it's just regular old rubber. And it will dry and crack in a couple of years like all other rubber does.

 

How much does it cost to install headers? can you do it your self?

 

You could probably do it yourself, but a rack would make it a piece of cake. If you go with headers you might want to look into some wrapping to keep the heat inside them, instead of into your engine bay. DEI makes some pretty good thermal wrap with stainless steel clamps to hold it on.

 

How much do those run? Will that help much??

 

So it would only void warranty for exhaust related problems...thats reassuring i figured they could try to turn arround and say it caused engine problems.

 

Do you mean the rack or the wrap?.....i'm assuming you mean the wrap........it's cheap, about 30-40 bucks.......yeah, it helps alright.......especially on a car that has so many vacuum hoses and electronic components.......the last thing you wanna do is cook 'em.......the headers generate a lot of heat, since they don't have the shielding that stock exhaust manifolds usually have.....the wrap does just what the shielding does, keeps the heat inside the pipe.....it's pretty easy to put on, too.......you just do the wrap before you install the headers.....make sure you wear gloves, it's kinda like fiberglas, so you'll be itchin' later without the gloves

 

You have summed up my thoughts exactly EJ!!

 

You could install headers yourself, just get ready for some scraped knuckles! I wouldn't worry too much about losing your exhaust warranty going with Borla, they warranty their systems for 1,000,000 miles - a lot more than the factory warranty! My brother had a Borla system on his Skylark for 2 years and it looked the same the day it came off the day it was put on the car - and that was even after being driven on heavily salted PA roads in the winter!

 

I am not worried about any exhaust warranty, just gives me more excuses to do more stuff to my car.

 

A knock sensor has nothing to do with torsional distortion. AND a Urethane material for use as a damper is not gonna work... Deny it as much as you want... the stock pulley acts as a mass tuned damper.... the UR pulley does not.

Why do you want to spen $300 for 4hp gains when you can get 20+ with a Borla or some other mod thatis 100% known to not damage the engine...

It ain't worth the risk.

 

Here's the long and the short of it........U-R has been around about 10 years.....out of the hundreds of people that have bought their products, i haven't heard one person say "U-R crank pulleys destroyed my engine".......i've got their crank pulley on my MR2.....i think i put it on somewhere around 150K miles.....its got 240K miles on it now, and the crank is still in one piece.....there are many others who have liked what U-R has done for their performance.......sure, the crank on your airplane engine broke.....in my opinion it was the propeller attached to the end of your crank that broke it, not the little rubber ring being removed......how long do you think a company could last if their products do nothing but destroy engines?......probably not very long.......certainly not 10 years

And the knock sensor detects noise, any kind of noise......just ask the sentra guys who needed to relocate their sensor when they modded their cars

I know you mean well by your protest of the pullies, but the evidence to support your claims is simply not there.......i've used them with success, and so have lots of others.......personally, i think headers AND pullies is the way to go.......I'm not against either

 

j

V8's usually have a heavy pulley that acts as a harmonic balancer. The V6, being better balanced and not producing as much torsional stress as a V8 is less likely to see any long term problems. I've never heard of an underdrive pulley causing crank failure. I know a guy with a probe GT (V6) who's been autoxing with a crank pulley for 5 years with no problems. The crank pulley produces almost all of the HP. The other pulleys are pretty much for looks as UR admits they don't like to underdrive the accessories very much. The crank pully will produce 4-6 hp on our cars for 180 bucks. That's about 36bucks/hp. Not bad IMO since most mods are about 100bucks/hp. Just my .02.