I don't see a point since the difference is so small and plus I like the scream of the popcharger with the exhaust at WOT

 

this is too much of a hassle to switch it up.

 

Not worth it for the 6 to 8 degree difference in temp.

 

well after driving around for a week...i miss the mid-top end power and sound...so i put back my popcharger on. when all is said and done I love the popcharger more than the 06 with K&N filter. It just feels more responsive and crisp above 3K rpm's..and it sounds awesome together with my muffler deleted.

 

I run my Pc'er all year long with no heat sheild. Never had any issues.

 

No.

 

Great job on the thermal shielding of your intake tube, air box, MAF housing and MAF sensor!

That is exactly in line with all the testing, data logging and insulating I've found to be effective.

The stock air box is the best of all air intakes at not ingesting hot air from the engine compartment, but even then, it is still susceptible to external heat soak at the dyno or while launching from a standstill.

Even the MAF housing and sensor are sensitive to the infared and convective heat soak forced into it by the hot engine compartment. I cant tell you how many times I've seen the heat soak on the data logger between dyno runs.

For steady state driving, the stock box maintains temperature very well, but once you come to a stop and sit at idle for a while (like at a long stop light or between dyno runs) the stock box heats up enough to cause a significant temperature rise as seen by the MAF. ...And this directly affects ECU spark timeing and resultant HP for the first several seconds of a launch or dyno run.

For consistency of dyno testing, I had to instulate the intake system exactly the same way you did.

At first I just insulated the tube but found much of the heat persisted. I then insulated the box itself. And this helped a lot... but there was still a temperature rise being measured by the MAF sensor.

It wasn't until I insulated the MAF housing and back side of the sensor that the problem was fully solved. Heat was being conducted into the MAF sensor from the external portion of the sensor.

Aparently heat is conducted into the sensor electronics because the inner body of the sensor is made of stamped sheet aluminum. And once the sensor gets hot, it takes several seconds for the sensor to cool back down once you go WOT.