sry110

iTrader: (17)

I am pretty sure you can. As long as the powerlab spacer is contoured to match the upper and lower plenums you currently have, then it will also match up with the MREV2.

pony_killer

iTrader: (23)

+1

I got a quick question...so far I just have the 5/16 MD spacer on my car and want to purchase and install a MREV2. Would I need to loc-tite the previous studs that were already loc-tited the first time? Also any additional parts or misc items I need during the MREV2 install?

06dieselZ

Would these mods still be useful if i were to go turbo?

pony_killer

iTrader: (23)

i know the 5/16 would..not sure about the mrev2

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

The loctite is optional.
If you have the Iso Thermal spacer with the Aramid gasket you are good to go. The Aramid gasket is fully reusable.

If you don't have the Aramid gasket, you should get a new gasket (stock or aramid) with the MREV2.

Reusing your old stock gasket is possible but somewhat iffy for sealing...

And no other parts are needed.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Yes.

raditz

I have just installed my MREV2 in my 35th anniversary. I have Crawford headers, TurboXS exhaust and race pipes, 5/16 Spacer, UTEC and 3.9FD.

With my old configuration (without the MREV2) my car was lazzy below 5500, but after that point it was a rocket, pushing very hard untill the 7000 fuel cut.

Now, with the MREV2 you can feel that the car starts pushing very hard from 4000 to 6500 rpm. I think that has no sense now go beyond 6750.

My point is that I can confirm that the medium range has being improved significantly, but what I can't probe is that I have loose power at the top. Maybe I feel less push up top because now I have more push at the medium rpm range and that's why I don't feel the kick that I used to feel when car reached 5500rpm, or maybe is because it really lose power up top...

I miss going until 7000 rpm with my 3.9FD

06dieselZ

That's what im afraid of
Maybe a 1/2 inch spacer would help up top?

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Be sure to shift at 7000. Even with the worst case MREV2 dyno results, its best to shift at redline. The average power in each gear is higher.

raditz

So you suggest going to redline anyway.

I can confirm a power drop after 6500 rpm, but again, I don't know if it's really a power drop due the MREV2 or because now at mid rpms it pushes like crazy

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

No matter how it is felt, your car is now faster and has a higher average power at every redline shift.

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

Just placed my order for an MREV2 + 5/16 copper iso thermal spacer.

Much thanks to Tony. EXCELLENT customer service. I think I have the installation instructions memorized by now

I'll post my thoughts after I receive the parts and install.

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I do have one quick question. With the spacers provided for the strut bar, is there any concern with it interfering when closing the hood?

I think I heard of one person having problems closing their hood due to the strut bar being too high.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Its not a problem. The strut bar is also adjustable. And in more ways than one.

Give me a call if you have any questions during your install.
661 993 5111

Tony

sry110

iTrader: (17)

I adjusted mine so that I got about 1/8" between the bar and the top of the plenum (at its lowest points) along with motordyne's spacers, and I don't have any interference between the bar and the plenum or the bar and the hood. I could probably even move it farther down closer to the plenum and still avoid contact between the plenum and bar. You should have no problems!

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

Sounds good. I didnt think it would be a problem since a good number of people have this mod and never mentioned it.

sry110, I read over your install process (very good btw). The only thing that concerns me is the fittings on the copper plate. I guess I'll find out in a week or so.

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I just did a very unscientific test. This will help after I get the spacer installed and to make sure I have enough clearance for the strut bar. I was able to slide a regular old Bic ball point pen the entire length between the plenum and the bar. It was the perfect thickness to fit the gap. So for those of you having rubbing issues while the engine is running, try to find one of these pens and use it to measure the clearance.

sry110

iTrader: (17)

^ ^ Did you have a chance to install yet?

Regarding the fittings on the TB heater plate, Tony explained to me that Nissan is somewhat inconsistent with ther hose sizes (I guess from year to year), and some of the years got 5/16" ID hoses while other years got 3/8" ID (I think those were the numbers, could be wrong). So the fittings on the TB heater were designed to accommodate the bigger diameter hoses, but it seems like I have the smaller hoses and it didn't seem to me like they were going to fit. My suggestion is to test-fit the hoses to the TB heater fittings before you go through the process of sandwiching the TB heater between the plenum and TB. That little hiccup probably added the better part of an extra hour onto the install process for me.

sry110

iTrader: (17)

I also wanted to add that, as an updated to my post #36 on page 2, my gas mileage meter still reads 20.6, and my best estimation is that it's result of 15% aggressive driving, 85% tame driving and sitting at red lights / stop signs. Not bad in my opinion.

Swiffer

iTrader: (8)

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