Crawford Headers
#21
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Welds
here are pics of mine:
Here’s the collector - a baloney cut to mate the flow evenly wouldn’t be much trouble... I can’t imagine there is a technical reason for the tubes overlapping; I think it’s just rushed.
Here’s the collector - a baloney cut to mate the flow evenly wouldn’t be much trouble... I can’t imagine there is a technical reason for the tubes overlapping; I think it’s just rushed.
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I live 25 minutes away from Crawford Z car service, been to their shop numerous times, and I can say without a doubt that they put some serious workmanship in their headers. They have gone through a couple of welders of course because they are on a "need be" basis. But either way, their product is outstanding.
If you have a "problem" with the product, I would suggest you CALL them instead of posting a thread on a forum. Thats just a bit of logic.
-Jonathan
If you have a "problem" with the product, I would suggest you CALL them instead of posting a thread on a forum. Thats just a bit of logic.
-Jonathan
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I made it real clear, this wasn’t about bashing Crawford... It was asking if others that have their headers had the same concerns...
As for calling Crawford - I already stated that I had a quality welder look at them to make sure there was no concern of cracking or problems - and his comment was he wasn’t impressed by the quality of the welds, but the should hold up.
I don’t see a reason to call Doug - it's not as if I want to return them... I would not have chosen Crawford if I didn’t believe they were the best for the performance I'm after. I was just curious to see if others were the same. I’m a big fan of Crawford and have their HFC – I’ve recommended them several times… so this isn’t a Crawford bash.
On a side note - the fuel line had to be heat wrapped and a new bracket fab'd to keep it clear from resting on the header... The shop had mentioned a Z using these headers with no bracket and no wrap and the header burned a hole spewing fuel all over Just an FYI for anyone installing these in the future.
As for calling Crawford - I already stated that I had a quality welder look at them to make sure there was no concern of cracking or problems - and his comment was he wasn’t impressed by the quality of the welds, but the should hold up.
I don’t see a reason to call Doug - it's not as if I want to return them... I would not have chosen Crawford if I didn’t believe they were the best for the performance I'm after. I was just curious to see if others were the same. I’m a big fan of Crawford and have their HFC – I’ve recommended them several times… so this isn’t a Crawford bash.
On a side note - the fuel line had to be heat wrapped and a new bracket fab'd to keep it clear from resting on the header... The shop had mentioned a Z using these headers with no bracket and no wrap and the header burned a hole spewing fuel all over Just an FYI for anyone installing these in the future.
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NISMO and DC actually aren't equal length, but they are close. No clue on Strup
the real question is why everyone gets hung up on one being equal vs non - neither is better than another, they just have slightly different powerbands
the real question is why everyone gets hung up on one being equal vs non - neither is better than another, they just have slightly different powerbands
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I got my crawford headers a few years ago. They've held up great so far, including 2 rounds of install/uninstall.
I haven't had any issues with heat so far, but I've changed out my clutch fluid for high temp fluid (it was alot easier than I thought, all I had to do was remove the driver side wheel to be able to reach the bleed screw).
The headers were Jet hot coated:
One side:
Other side:
An a before an after dyno on the same dyno that you've organized a dyno day in early November.
This was on my 5AT 03 G35 coupe. Mods at the time:
popcharger, grubbs intake tube, ported TB/upper manifold/lower manifold/intake manifold/intake runners on heads, UR crank pulley, aftermarket Y pipe/B-pipe. The car was running lean on the stock ECU.
I haven't had any issues with heat so far, but I've changed out my clutch fluid for high temp fluid (it was alot easier than I thought, all I had to do was remove the driver side wheel to be able to reach the bleed screw).
The headers were Jet hot coated:
One side:
Other side:
An a before an after dyno on the same dyno that you've organized a dyno day in early November.
This was on my 5AT 03 G35 coupe. Mods at the time:
popcharger, grubbs intake tube, ported TB/upper manifold/lower manifold/intake manifold/intake runners on heads, UR crank pulley, aftermarket Y pipe/B-pipe. The car was running lean on the stock ECU.
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Thanks for your response EK, the collector on yours is a bit different… the tubing merges at the same length – even the one that overlaps a bit still merges closer together than mine… I don’t know if it makes a difference or not in performance – but that’s what I was hoping to determine for this thread… thanks for posting.
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Different powerbands suit different driving styles. Some people will like the high rpm power band, and some people will like the lower rpm (more torquey) power band.
OCG35, as long as the weld looks as it is penetrated and without visible puddle, it should be okay. They use high quality rod stock, as well as high quality tubing. I doubt you will fair any cracking or distortion. My father had his crawford headers on his 03' 350z for 5 years (03'-08', traded car this year) and we did not see any signs of fatigue or malconstruction.
-Jonathan
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anyone have any tricks for residual heat from these headers?... Mine are coated but the intake temps are way hotter then OEM with the heat shield... I'm thinking I'm going to have to find a way to wrap the sensor/housing - there is no room to shield the headers...
Anyone find a solution for heat soak form the headers?
Anyone find a solution for heat soak form the headers?
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once the car is moving its a non issue. I was going to go all **** retentive myself and coat the housing, etc, till I came to my senses and realized that I don't care about intake temps when the car is stationary, and hours of logging has shown me that literally 20 seconds of driving at even slow speeds and IAT matches ambient within a couple of degrees
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once the car is moving its a non issue. I was going to go all **** retentive myself and coat the housing, etc, till I came to my senses and realized that I don't care about intake temps when the car is stationary, and hours of logging has shown me that literally 20 seconds of driving at even slow speeds and IAT matches ambient within a couple of degrees
At the drag strip this is a concern... lots of things are happening with the car right now that is making my bottom end feel much different than pre headers, but I'm almost positive the heat soak is attributing to some (if not much) of my off idle sluggishness...
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