350z longtube headers
Race tracks reward consistency, low weight, high grip and above all, driver skill. Horsepower is the least important factor
I really think I'm gonna buy some obx or Mr lts just to install and dyno to put this to rest. I'm just bolt on so I think it will be interesting. Either I waste 600$ or I make good gains
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 13,406
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From: MexiCali dodging potholes
Do it!
You can head over to g35driver and look up pr35driver. He had stock headers and ART pipes. He added SGM longtubes and saw gains no engine work! He has a DE...
I'm sure if you have test pipes already and a tune your not gonna see that much in gains! If you buy the OBX/Megan longtubes seek install goes smoothly I see why not.
But always remember you get what you paid for!
I'm look at Fast intention or PPE longtubes for the 370z for my next buy!
You can head over to g35driver and look up pr35driver. He had stock headers and ART pipes. He added SGM longtubes and saw gains no engine work! He has a DE...
I'm sure if you have test pipes already and a tune your not gonna see that much in gains! If you buy the OBX/Megan longtubes seek install goes smoothly I see why not.
But always remember you get what you paid for!
I'm look at Fast intention or PPE longtubes for the 370z for my next buy!
I have megan long tubes. Good gains which smoothed out the power band...I am considering doing cams eventually but that would be around a 2000 dollar job plus tune for less gains than the longtubes gave...
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 50
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From: Chandler, AZ
How would you rate the quality of the Megans?
Last edited by Sonic1; Jun 15, 2011 at 09:57 PM.
I don't think there's ever been a direct comparison of the Megans vs a shorty + test pipe combo, or even Megans vs stock manifold + test pipe. I'm sure the Megans gain over stock simply from removing the cats, but beyond that....not sure.
The collector on the Megans is probably the biggest drawback. A collector is perhaps the most important part, since it is responsible for merging the primaries efficiently, w/o inducing turbulence & affecting velocity and flow. There's certainly a difference between a good collector, and simply dumping 3 smaller tubes into a larger tube, which is what the Megans (and most cheap headers) do.
The collector on the Megans is probably the biggest drawback. A collector is perhaps the most important part, since it is responsible for merging the primaries efficiently, w/o inducing turbulence & affecting velocity and flow. There's certainly a difference between a good collector, and simply dumping 3 smaller tubes into a larger tube, which is what the Megans (and most cheap headers) do.
Last edited by doshoru; Jun 16, 2011 at 07:23 AM.
A lot of people will tell you that headers "aren't worth it" because the pain/time/cost to install isn't worth the gains....to which I'd reply that what is "worth it" is subjective and will vary from person to person.
Most people opt for just test pipes, b/c they're cheap, simple to install, and give you a nice bump in power. *Good* headers like crawfords have been shown to add ~10whp through a large part of the midrange, which IMO is pretty substantial. Borla headers....lose power (and they'll tell you that themselves!), so make sure you do your research.
If you have an HR...a lot of people would say not worth it b/c the HR already comes with equal length headers, which I also disagree with. There's more to header design than simply whether they are equal length or not. While certainly better flowing than the older DE manifolds, there is still power left on the table with the HR manifolds.
Quality long tubes should perform the best, as there are zero compromises since cat placement is a total non-issue. The OEMs typically need to place the cat close to the exhaust ports to make them run more efficiently (hotter). Sometimes this will be in direct conflict with the desired length of the primaries vs merge collector for the rpm range that power is desired for a given engine cam/header combo.
If emissions are an issue in your state....don't do longtubes unless (1) you know a guy, (2) they don't do a visual and/or tail pipe test, or (3) you don't mind spending several hours, bloody knuckles, etc. every time emissions time comes around. Seriously -- look at what's involved on the Z to swap headers...some headers call for you to at the very least rock the engine to each side just to get clearance to put the header in, and this is after disconnecting coolant lines, etc. etc. Much easier to simply swap out the test pipe section, and either do shorties, or leave the stock manifolds on.
Most people opt for just test pipes, b/c they're cheap, simple to install, and give you a nice bump in power. *Good* headers like crawfords have been shown to add ~10whp through a large part of the midrange, which IMO is pretty substantial. Borla headers....lose power (and they'll tell you that themselves!), so make sure you do your research.
If you have an HR...a lot of people would say not worth it b/c the HR already comes with equal length headers, which I also disagree with. There's more to header design than simply whether they are equal length or not. While certainly better flowing than the older DE manifolds, there is still power left on the table with the HR manifolds.
Quality long tubes should perform the best, as there are zero compromises since cat placement is a total non-issue. The OEMs typically need to place the cat close to the exhaust ports to make them run more efficiently (hotter). Sometimes this will be in direct conflict with the desired length of the primaries vs merge collector for the rpm range that power is desired for a given engine cam/header combo.
If emissions are an issue in your state....don't do longtubes unless (1) you know a guy, (2) they don't do a visual and/or tail pipe test, or (3) you don't mind spending several hours, bloody knuckles, etc. every time emissions time comes around. Seriously -- look at what's involved on the Z to swap headers...some headers call for you to at the very least rock the engine to each side just to get clearance to put the header in, and this is after disconnecting coolant lines, etc. etc. Much easier to simply swap out the test pipe section, and either do shorties, or leave the stock manifolds on.
Last edited by doshoru; Jun 29, 2011 at 01:18 PM.
You know, what blows me away is the fact that so many of these various long tube headers have been sold and there are no independant pre/post dynos. (at least none that I know of)
Heck, if I installed a set of logn tube headers on my Z or G, I would pre/post dyno it like crazy and post the results everywhere.
Heck, if I installed a set of logn tube headers on my Z or G, I would pre/post dyno it like crazy and post the results everywhere.
Why doesn't MD produce headers?
Seriously, of anyone who does r/d and is knowledgable about exhaust dyanamics, yet we all sit here and debate long tube this, headers are useless etc...
Tony.... I think there is interest, and if power is to be had, you are the man to do it. Question is, would it be cost effective? Is that why?
Tony.... I think there is interest, and if power is to be had, you are the man to do it. Question is, would it be cost effective? Is that why?
What I was told that an ART LTH could be possible but LOTS of R&D would be needed, he may have to add a hemholtz resonator on each primairy instead of a single resonator on the collector.
I have called and talked many times about him making some, he (Tony at MD) deffinitely puts a lot effort into his work and does pay off, but LTH's typically don't have enough people willing to buy them. So producing them it's always worth the time/money.
If Motordyne made a set of LTH ART's I'd buy it, hands down....and Tony knows this.
I have called and talked many times about him making some, he (Tony at MD) deffinitely puts a lot effort into his work and does pay off, but LTH's typically don't have enough people willing to buy them. So producing them it's always worth the time/money.
If Motordyne made a set of LTH ART's I'd buy it, hands down....and Tony knows this.
