Pop Charger vs heat, tests with OT-2
06-18-2010, 08:52 PM
#21
Underhood heat isn't going to clear out that fast seeing that 20mph isn't a whole lot of air movement. I've got a data logger myself and have tested this religiously. It takes a solid 3 to 4 seconds to see a significant drop in IAT values when going WOT from a stop. On a hot day, it could take even longer.
The 0 to 40mph portion of a 1/4 mile race is the most crucial. If the engine is ingesting hot air in 1st, it's going to be slower and won't launch as hard. Now if you're racing on a sub 60 degree day, then having an aftermarket intake probably won't make you any slower at all. But if you're racing in hot temps (80+), you'll be slower.
High intake temps result in reduced timing and a richened fuel mixture to cool the combustion chamber and stop knock. Both adjustments kill power. So, not only does the hot air have less available power, the ECU is compensating to keep itself from pre-detonating itself to death.
As Motordyne as shown, aftermarket intakes do nothing for these cars and in some cases they'll slow you down. The OEM intake setup on the Z is close to ideal. I guess for some, the added noise of an intake is worth having a potentially slower car.
The 0 to 40mph portion of a 1/4 mile race is the most crucial. If the engine is ingesting hot air in 1st, it's going to be slower and won't launch as hard. Now if you're racing on a sub 60 degree day, then having an aftermarket intake probably won't make you any slower at all. But if you're racing in hot temps (80+), you'll be slower.
High intake temps result in reduced timing and a richened fuel mixture to cool the combustion chamber and stop knock. Both adjustments kill power. So, not only does the hot air have less available power, the ECU is compensating to keep itself from pre-detonating itself to death.
As Motordyne as shown, aftermarket intakes do nothing for these cars and in some cases they'll slow you down. The OEM intake setup on the Z is close to ideal. I guess for some, the added noise of an intake is worth having a potentially slower car.
06-19-2010, 08:32 AM
#23
I don't like the idea of having to start out from lights etc.. with the ecu retarding the timing because it's seeing a high IAT reading.
I'd give up whatever preceived high end that people think the stock airbox loses than sacrifice my lowend. The 06 airbox is what I'm running. But I've run the stillen. These are the only two intakes worth running at all IMHO
I'd give up whatever preceived high end that people think the stock airbox loses than sacrifice my lowend. The 06 airbox is what I'm running. But I've run the stillen. These are the only two intakes worth running at all IMHO
^ Me and this cat here debated this extensively a while back, lol. We agreed to disagree.
Im with you, Terra. We may lose a few (no way 10-15) in the first few seconds, but make up for it in the top end. There is just simply no way heat soak will counter a much larger velocity stack and more filter area with increased flow characteristics over a dry, flat filter pulling air from one location.
06-19-2010, 10:52 AM
#24
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Honestly, even if the effects of the heatsoak robs us of valuable power during the initial launching of the car, the power difference is probably minor enough to be negligible (read: other factors contribute much more to your overall performance, such as one's skills/abilities but mainly consistency).
I've been using a Popcharger for years now in the TX heat.
Either way, when you're doing any sort of racing you're not standing still for long. I've given much thought to this issue too (as old as the my350z history) and my solution was not to enclose the filter in a casing (similar to stock airbox) but to allow for faster cooling via an air duct.
I've been using a Popcharger for years now in the TX heat.
Either way, when you're doing any sort of racing you're not standing still for long. I've given much thought to this issue too (as old as the my350z history) and my solution was not to enclose the filter in a casing (similar to stock airbox) but to allow for faster cooling via an air duct.
06-19-2010, 12:48 PM
#27
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Since this is a thread about heat soak, which material is more resistant to it: aluminum or plastic? I'm thinking of buying a Z1 Performance Z-Tube and imagine plastic is better.
06-19-2010, 12:57 PM
#28
Plastic would be better, yes. But also stock is not smooth flowing due to those accordian bend grooves it has in it. I would imagine that would disrupt air flow greatly.
I have the Berk Tech Z-tube, and would like to think the air is moving so quickly through that short amount of tube that the difference between the heat of the plastic to aluminum wouldnt make all that much of a difference.
I have the Berk Tech Z-tube, and would like to think the air is moving so quickly through that short amount of tube that the difference between the heat of the plastic to aluminum wouldnt make all that much of a difference.
06-21-2010, 08:00 AM
#33
Who knows. Prob just for ease of flexiblity of the pipe when taking out, to prevent creating a stress point on plastic at the bend, i dunno.
I think its so you can push the front section back alittle (compress accordian) to help easily uninstall without breaking. Either way, its a performance no-no.
I think its so you can push the front section back alittle (compress accordian) to help easily uninstall without breaking. Either way, its a performance no-no.
06-21-2010, 08:49 AM
#34
^ Me and this cat here debated this extensively a while back, lol. We agreed to disagree.
Im with you, Terra. We may lose a few (no way 10-15) in the first few seconds, but make up for it in the top end. There is just simply no way heat soak will counter a much larger velocity stack and more filter area with increased flow characteristics over a dry, flat filter pulling air from one location.
Im with you, Terra. We may lose a few (no way 10-15) in the first few seconds, but make up for it in the top end. There is just simply no way heat soak will counter a much larger velocity stack and more filter area with increased flow characteristics over a dry, flat filter pulling air from one location.
But if you think the cone is better, run the Stillen. It's probably the best of both worlds. The JWT isn't IMHO
06-21-2010, 11:32 AM
#40
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the heat soak issue has nothing to with the popcharger. Heat soak has to do with the heating up of the engine bay. No intake can protect you from having your engine heat up.