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Putting my Headers and exhaust on , need opinions

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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Default Putting my Headers and exhaust on , need opinions

I just recieved my stillen headers and cats to go along with the stillen true dual setup i got,
keeping the car n/a 2003 vq35de currently have 5/16th spacer
and injen short ram/RC2 filter

read a post on switching to dot 4 clutch fluid because of heat from headers?
Should i wrap my headers?
is this worth it/help with this or any other heat problem?


read a post on switching to dot 4 clutch fluid because of heat from headers?
Is this neccesary?
Do i need a stainless steel clutch line?

Should i have dot 4 fluid in my brake system if i allready have
stainless steel brake lines/slotted rotors and hawk hps?
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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Sell ur headers.
/thread
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 05:46 PM
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I was suppose to get my headers put on today but the shop decided after taking many pieces of the under pieces apart that it was to difficult at a professional header and muffler shop I was like are you serous! The problem is that the installation is estimated to take 6 hours and that adds to a lot of money. I was going to get a deal which was $450 for the installation and that was the best I have found in the area from a reputable shop. I furious but hopefully you have better luck than me. Just be ready to get hit with a large estimate and bill.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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i want the headers , so its louder and hopefully helpful with the rest of the exhaust i have
why would i sell them?

i need to know if putting these headers on will affect a clutch fluid line

and if using dot 4 fluid in my brakes is smart
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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I've run headers for a year now and only once did I feel the clutch was affected by heat. I came to find out I was merely too low on fluid and got some air in the line. Don't think you need to worry about the clutch lines unless you plan to track the car, and then you need to be out on pretty hard long sessions.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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I had enough trouble with changing the cats, good luck
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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I had an issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor on my 06 after headers. BUT this issue came about 2 years after the install. The clutch fluid had never been bled (shame on me for being lazy) and at this point, was 4 years old. I'm sure it had absorbed a fair deal of moisture, therefore suffered a reduced boiling point. 90 degree heat, headers, and a spirited drive got it. Motul RBF600 and a ss clutch hose fixed it.

I got my headers installed for $200 in NC. I felt like it was a bargain to have it done so cheap. There isn't a lot of room for the installation.
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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you don't need to change antyhing until you run a heavier clutch. Stock fluid type will be fine on stock clutch.

headers are a ***** to install. You have to drain your coolant and remove the coolant hard pipes to get to the headers. Worst thing i've ever done and i've had the engine out 4 times. I wouldn't do headers again wthout removing the engine.

also, i noticed ZERO increase in sound when i changed my headers. headers will flow, but it's the exhaust that makes the exhaust note.
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve-O Z33
I had an issue with the clutch pedal sticking to the floor on my 06 after headers. BUT this issue came about 2 years after the install. The clutch fluid had never been bled (shame on me for being lazy) and at this point, was 4 years old. I'm sure it had absorbed a fair deal of moisture, therefore suffered a reduced boiling point. 90 degree heat, headers, and a spirited drive got it. Motul RBF600 and a ss clutch hose fixed it.

I got my headers installed for $200 in NC. I felt like it was a bargain to have it done so cheap. There isn't a lot of room for the installation.
Thank you

so motul rbf600 and stainless steel clutchline it is, ill get a new clutch when mine burns up on my or the chattering its got start getting to me

Im going to be removing the sway bars and coilovers during the install
, painting my plenum and putting on my spacer during the install

switching the clutch line and changing fluid to motul rbf600

and if its smart, changing my brake fluid to dot 4,
"will this help my rotors,ss lines and hawk pads stop better?"

Should i just pull my engine since im going to be flushing out coolant,
clutch, and brake fluid to install the headers anyways?
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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Do you track the car or HPDE at least?
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JOMZSHAKES

Should i just pull my engine since im going to be flushing out coolant,
clutch, and brake fluid to install the headers anyways?
If your changing the clutch, I say pull the motor so you can do the headers quickly.
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Old Aug 19, 2010 | 01:45 PM
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truthfully, if you want to properly torque your headers with a torque wrench you have to pull the motor. From 8 hours of trying it is impossible to get a torque wrench up in that area to tighten the nuts to spec with the motor in. You can get a couple, but half of them you can't.

if you feel like pulling a motor is something you can do, it will probably take the same amount of time but less effort to pull the engine and install headers. I know after a few times of having my engine out i could do it in less time then installing headers with the engine in.
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