hugo350z

iTrader: (18)

If you search you can answer all the questions about turbos, internals, etc. Also if you are concerned with fuel economy, drifting nor forced induction is for you. Don't get mad just trying to help you out.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

YOu do not need SC or Turbo to drift, even if you get into grassroots comp all the way to Pro-AM.
Gears, diff, seat , front camber arms and hfc/test pipes would be my first mods.

pronoob

the issuses im having with searches is that 99.999% of them are from 2004-2009. back in 2009 everyone was in awe at a terabite hard drive. now in 2011 there are 10-15 tb wireless hard drives. that info is too old. its where i have gained much advice but nothing really solid enough. second the only reason im going on about the FI is cause someone else said it and i was hoping for some current feed back. im only concered about fuel eco is cause im still using it as my dd for a nother year or so, then if im all about drifting then thats what it will become. what brands are good hfc and exhaust. i dont want to be heard 10 blocks away. just an increase in performance. i was hoping for spacer hgc in take(short ram or otherwise) and ehaust. stuff that i can keep around if i do FI. also in stead of just saying thing like coil overs cambers lsd, give me so worth brands. sorry to be a pain but there is so much infomation out there that there is now way i can learn it all in a couple of weeks to put a plan together find the price and nickle and dime myself til i have the cash for it.

onagao

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

3.9 gear set
Kaaz, Tomei, Cusco , Nismo or OS Giken LSD
Fixed bucket seat ( Corbeau , Sparco, OMP etc etc )
SPL arms are the best, but Megan arms will work just fine.
Wheels , wheels wheels and tires tires tires and drive at events as much as possible.

Oh ya, a quality set of ARP studs will be great. Very strong and less likely to strip when swapping wheels out. You will be swapping wheels around a lot.

pronoob

i still have the stock rims. should i change to a different size?

hugo350z

iTrader: (18)

I have os giken lsd, just got it installed two weeks ago...recent enough. Information regardless of how old it is will always be valuable until proven wrong or debunked. Do you even have money to buy these things? Or is this a fantasy build? First try drifting to begin with, what if you decide it's not for you? And lastly, if you want info that bad look it up(search), pm members, at least try instead of being spoon fed. There is more than sufficient info one here. I too was in your shoes once, I even pm'ed terrasmak about his experience with coils, after i read and read for days, weeks, months. Drift first or get a ride along, set a budget, call shops, go to meets, network, then buy your items. Pretty sure alot of Z members live around you, start requesting ride alongs and note the products that they have and how you liked or disliked them.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

you've got an older car, and nothing really revolutionary has happened since it's ceased production

there is an entire forum here dedicated to forced induction. If this is 1. your only car and 2. a car you're going to be doing any drift/track, etc work with, the first thing you should buy is a daily driver. It will save you time/money and aggravation in the long run

no one is really going to spoon feed anyone a list of specific brands, etc, because there is a vendor section for that. It's really up to you to define your goals, budget, skill level etc more clearly in order to get that sort of info. Ask exact questions, you'll get exact answers. If you ask very generic "what's the best" type questions, you're going to get similarly generic answers. All the info you could ever hope to want or need about owning, and modding this car for just about any type of useage is posted all throughout the forum. Yes, it will take you some time to read through it all, but the more time you spend now, the more informed you'll be when it comes to modding it.

The must have list mod list to go drifting with any sort of competitive level is going to be in the $5k range cost wise. That's why I suggested you're best bet is take the car as it is, and work on your skill level first, mod it second. The car is more capable in stock form that ~ 90% of it's owners are.

pronoob

i think some of you guys have the wrong idea... im not asking you how to build my car. im asking for advice on it. im not doing anything solid until spring. but im trying to but a plan together for when spring comes around, ill have the money the know how and reputable sellers online or in my area to put this build together. my car has almost 90k miles on it, i like drifting for fun but when i have a not really worn pair of tires i have trouble losing traction, i can still do it but its way harder. i dont care if i feel the increase in power the only time i want to notice it is when is when the newer set of tires goes on and im not strugling as much

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Here is what I suggest for the lowest hanging fruit for your objective.

1) Sway bars. You need to be able to dial in more oversteer to get the back end out. Sway bars will do this real cheap, easy and effective. $329 on our website.

2) ART pipes. Even on a stock exhaust it will add good power and torque. It will also get you nearly a majority of available power from modifying your exhaust. Not only they are turbo compatible they will add a lot more power if you do add a turbo. $585

3) 5/16" Iso Thermal plenum spacer. So cheap and easy you don't want to pass it up even if you move onto turbo later.

So you don't really have to spend a whole lot to cover the basics.

pronoob

do the art pipes come with hfc and is there a signifigance increase in power?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

You really should spend your first money on some of the drifting schools in your area, and keep some funds on the side for the inevitable repairs. No real point in upgrading anything just yet until you know what you're doing with this car on a drift course, and know for yourself it's the direction you want to continue. Building a car for drift use is much different than building it for any other form of driving

Bolt ons are cool and all, but its not going to suddenly make the car do something it's not doing now.

As far as parts go, your biggest limitation is your differential. Nothing else you do to the car is going to make it as drift friendly as a good LSD (or at the very least, welding your stock one if you're going the cheap route)

I am not into the drift scene with my own Z, but have tons of customers who are. The biggest thing any one of them will tell you is that, like any type of driving practice is your best friend and best investment. Knowing how to transition the weight of the car, and get it to change direction while controlling the rear is something that takes skill born from those open drift practice days that are organized. A couple parts here and there might sound nice, but they aren't going to suddenly change the car, or you into a competant drifter - it's pretty competant bone stock. Welding the stock diff, and practice, are going to make a night and day difference. 10-20 whp will not, nor will any othermod you try to do. A skilled driver in a bone stock car will run circles around a total novice with all the best toys on it.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

They are not HFC's but they make more power than either test pipes or HFC's.