ART Test Pipe Buzzing/Fitment Issue
06-05-2012, 03:05 PM
#22
UPDATE:
I removed the cat-back exhuast = no more metal buzzing sound. One of the cat back bolt snapped off.
Verdict: Loose screw or the cat-back itself.
The car sounds so freaking mean now. Its going to be like this until I get the Bassani.
Rubicant try removing the exhaust and see if the fixes your problem.
I removed the cat-back exhuast = no more metal buzzing sound. One of the cat back bolt snapped off.
Verdict: Loose screw or the cat-back itself.
The car sounds so freaking mean now. Its going to be like this until I get the Bassani.
Rubicant try removing the exhaust and see if the fixes your problem.
I'm currently running the Blitz Nur Spec exhaust.
Last edited by Ruined Z; 06-05-2012 at 03:09 PM.
06-05-2012, 04:37 PM
#23
Also note, the ART pipes reduce or eliminate rasp greatly compared to regular test pipes but with some exhaust systems there can still be some rasp.
For example, with the stock exhaust, there is rasp. Its much less than regular test pipes but its still there.
And in all cases, the ART pipes are much quieter than regular test pipes.
06-05-2012, 09:34 PM
#24
Yes, that stud poking out from the floor board must be trimmed off or it will make all kinds of noise.
Also note, the ART pipes reduce or eliminate rasp greatly compared to regular test pipes but with some exhaust systems there can still be some rasp.
For example, with the stock exhaust, there is rasp. Its much less than regular test pipes but its still there.
And in all cases, the ART pipes are much quieter than regular test pipes.
Also note, the ART pipes reduce or eliminate rasp greatly compared to regular test pipes but with some exhaust systems there can still be some rasp.
For example, with the stock exhaust, there is rasp. Its much less than regular test pipes but its still there.
And in all cases, the ART pipes are much quieter than regular test pipes.
06-05-2012, 09:34 PM
#25
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Yes, that stud poking out from the floor board must be trimmed off or it will make all kinds of noise.
Also note, the ART pipes reduce or eliminate rasp greatly compared to regular test pipes but with some exhaust systems there can still be some rasp.
For example, with the stock exhaust, there is rasp. Its much less than regular test pipes but its still there.
And in all cases, the ART pipes are much quieter than regular test pipes.
Also note, the ART pipes reduce or eliminate rasp greatly compared to regular test pipes but with some exhaust systems there can still be some rasp.
For example, with the stock exhaust, there is rasp. Its much less than regular test pipes but its still there.
And in all cases, the ART pipes are much quieter than regular test pipes.
~Robert
06-06-2012, 08:49 AM
#27
Quick OT.
Does anyone know what's the pipe or part called between the "Axle-Back and Y-pipe"?
No one seems to make/sell that individually. (or maybe I haven't found it yet)
And if that is a resonator or an exahust?
I'm debating if I should get an Motordyne XYZ-Pipe-resonated.
ART | XYZ-Resonated | ?Unknown pipe? | axle back.
Does anyone know what's the pipe or part called between the "Axle-Back and Y-pipe"?
No one seems to make/sell that individually. (or maybe I haven't found it yet)
And if that is a resonator or an exahust?
I'm debating if I should get an Motordyne XYZ-Pipe-resonated.
ART | XYZ-Resonated | ?Unknown pipe? | axle back.
Last edited by John_B; 06-06-2012 at 08:58 AM.
06-12-2012, 06:33 AM
#31
EDIT:
The buzzing is still presents after removing heatshields and muffler. The problem itself is the ART Pipe!
I will be selling this as soon as I get the PPE Header. The gain is awesome, but it sounds like crap!
If you are planning on buying a TP, I would just get Berks pipe. No need to spend $500.
Side Note:
RASP is not the problem, but a metal buzzing sound.
The buzzing is still presents after removing heatshields and muffler. The problem itself is the ART Pipe!
I will be selling this as soon as I get the PPE Header. The gain is awesome, but it sounds like crap!
If you are planning on buying a TP, I would just get Berks pipe. No need to spend $500.
Side Note:
RASP is not the problem, but a metal buzzing sound.
06-12-2012, 09:12 AM
#32
Trimmed that stub bolt and no more rattles. However, mine still makes a slight rasp sound under acceleration. Though it is not that bad.
I think the TDX2 by itself sounds the cleanest. Adding ART pipes gives it a better growl down low, but when up top, there is more metallic rasp/buzz whatever you want to call it.
I think the TDX2 by itself sounds the cleanest. Adding ART pipes gives it a better growl down low, but when up top, there is more metallic rasp/buzz whatever you want to call it.
06-12-2012, 10:16 AM
#33
EDIT:
The buzzing is still presents after removing heatshields and muffler. The problem itself is the ART Pipe!
I will be selling this as soon as I get the PPE Header. The gain is awesome, but it sounds like crap!
If you are planning on buying a TP, I would just get Berks pipe. No need to spend $500.
Side Note:
RASP is not the problem, but a metal buzzing sound.
The buzzing is still presents after removing heatshields and muffler. The problem itself is the ART Pipe!
I will be selling this as soon as I get the PPE Header. The gain is awesome, but it sounds like crap!
If you are planning on buying a TP, I would just get Berks pipe. No need to spend $500.
Side Note:
RASP is not the problem, but a metal buzzing sound.
06-12-2012, 12:20 PM
#34
Trimmed that stub bolt and no more rattles. However, mine still makes a slight rasp sound under acceleration. Though it is not that bad.
I think the TDX2 by itself sounds the cleanest. Adding ART pipes gives it a better growl down low, but when up top, there is more metallic rasp/buzz whatever you want to call it.
I think the TDX2 by itself sounds the cleanest. Adding ART pipes gives it a better growl down low, but when up top, there is more metallic rasp/buzz whatever you want to call it.
I trimmed that stub bolt prior to the install so there is a lot of clearance.
I removed my muffler out and just had a custom Y-pipe with the stock tip for the time being and it sounds like a V8 at low RPM.
At around 2300 - 2600 is where that sound pops up and it goes away or gets drowned by the sound over 2600RPM. I have to assume that the motor gets a lot of load as the car keeps accelerating because I can just feel it vibrate (At 2300-2600). I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
06-13-2012, 08:07 AM
#35
Standard test pipes or HFC cats will rasp hard.
If you have a rattle in your ART pipe, it's faulty and probably has a cleaning bead stuck inside it. If your pipes are older versions, this was a known issue, contact Motordyne.
ART pipes are clean sounding and do not rattle when not faulty and when fitted correctly. Their volume is much quieter than normal test pipes and HFC's, not much louder than stock.
On the stock y-back system, there is a little rasp when you accelerate firmly in the mid range. I cured this with the XYZ pipe resonator.
If you have a rattle in your ART pipe, it's faulty and probably has a cleaning bead stuck inside it. If your pipes are older versions, this was a known issue, contact Motordyne.
ART pipes are clean sounding and do not rattle when not faulty and when fitted correctly. Their volume is much quieter than normal test pipes and HFC's, not much louder than stock.
On the stock y-back system, there is a little rasp when you accelerate firmly in the mid range. I cured this with the XYZ pipe resonator.
06-13-2012, 09:24 AM
#36
I trimmed that stub bolt prior to the install so there is a lot of clearance.
I removed my muffler out and just had a custom Y-pipe with the stock tip for the time being and it sounds like a V8 at low RPM.
At around 2300 - 2600 is where that sound pops up and it goes away or gets drowned by the sound over 2600RPM. I have to assume that the motor gets a lot of load as the car keeps accelerating because I can just feel it vibrate (At 2300-2600). I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
I removed my muffler out and just had a custom Y-pipe with the stock tip for the time being and it sounds like a V8 at low RPM.
At around 2300 - 2600 is where that sound pops up and it goes away or gets drowned by the sound over 2600RPM. I have to assume that the motor gets a lot of load as the car keeps accelerating because I can just feel it vibrate (At 2300-2600). I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
What is your complete exhaust setup?
It may very well be that you are experiencing rasp with your particular combination of parts. And rasp has a whole range of different kinds of sounds.
Some exhaust systems are prone to rasp (even with stock cats) and other are highly resistant. The overall interaction of parts is what makes the sound signature.
06-14-2012, 07:51 PM
#37
EDIT:
The buzzing is still presents after removing heatshields and muffler. The problem itself is the ART Pipe!
I will be selling this as soon as I get the PPE Header. The gain is awesome, but it sounds like crap!
If you are planning on buying a TP, I would just get Berks pipe. No need to spend $500.
Side Note:
RASP is not the problem, but a metal buzzing sound.
The buzzing is still presents after removing heatshields and muffler. The problem itself is the ART Pipe!
I will be selling this as soon as I get the PPE Header. The gain is awesome, but it sounds like crap!
If you are planning on buying a TP, I would just get Berks pipe. No need to spend $500.
Side Note:
RASP is not the problem, but a metal buzzing sound.
And yes, RASP can sometimes sound like a metal buzzing sound, but only troubleshooting can reveal what it really is.
06-19-2012, 09:26 PM
#40
Call me to troubleshoot what is happening in detail. Its not supposed to do that. If its caused by the pipe its warrantied. If its something else, troubleshooting can help find what it is.
And yes, RASP can sometimes sound like a metal buzzing sound, but only troubleshooting can reveal what it really is.
And yes, RASP can sometimes sound like a metal buzzing sound, but only troubleshooting can reveal what it really is.
Thank you! I will call you soon. I will try and get some video first.
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