Another JWT POP Charger review...
01-31-2004, 05:24 PM
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Another JWT POP Charger review...
The mod bug was nipping at my toes again, and I needed to do something to my car. I went the cheap route, and decided to pick up a POP Charger from Performance Nissan. One of my other vendors (Rob at Scott Performance) told me it was worth the $100 for the sound alone, so I figured why not.
Install was pretty easy, although drilling/punching holes in the stock funnel piece was a real pain in the **** due to the confined space. I put it on and reset the ECU.
I took it out for a drive...and man, I wish I had put that thing on a while ago! The car is so much more interesting drive with the added growl. It has a cool little whistle when you're just puttering around, but it isn't any louder or intrusive. When you jump on it, it really belts out some sound...very cool. The butt dyno is inconclusive, so I have no idea if it's actually adding any HP. Throttle response does seem just as good or better.
The one thing that I did notice is that it seems to have diminished or eliminated an off-throttle vibration that I used to have in the 4-3k range. Before, when I was in gear and let off of the gas...as the rpms were dropping through the 4-3k range, I used to feel a vibration in the engine. Today, I wasn't feeling it. I'll have to putz with it a bit more, but not really sure what's going on there?
Within the next couple of weeks I plan on doing some testing of some heat wrap in combo with POP Charger. I bought some stuff from Cool Ride Products that I had seen a while back on a European Car project turbo M3. They used the heat wrap with some sucess. I plan on using our shop pyrometer to take temps on the shield and intake pipe both before and after the heat wrap. I know it probably won't do much in the way of power gains, but I figure lowering intake temps won't hurt this year when I'm on track. I've always been curious about whether or not these heat wraps make a substantial difference in temps, so I'll see what the pyrometer tells me.
My plan right now is to cover the heat shield and the intake pipe/tube itself with the wrap. I plan on running the car the same distance at the same speeds from a cold start...then measuring temps on two points on the shield, and two points on the intake pipe. I will note air temp per my Z's thermometer. After applying the wrap, I'll do the same procedure on a different day. Any more suggestions on how to get a good reading...or anything else someone wants me to take a temp on when I'm doing this? thanks.
Install was pretty easy, although drilling/punching holes in the stock funnel piece was a real pain in the **** due to the confined space. I put it on and reset the ECU.
I took it out for a drive...and man, I wish I had put that thing on a while ago! The car is so much more interesting drive with the added growl. It has a cool little whistle when you're just puttering around, but it isn't any louder or intrusive. When you jump on it, it really belts out some sound...very cool. The butt dyno is inconclusive, so I have no idea if it's actually adding any HP. Throttle response does seem just as good or better.
The one thing that I did notice is that it seems to have diminished or eliminated an off-throttle vibration that I used to have in the 4-3k range. Before, when I was in gear and let off of the gas...as the rpms were dropping through the 4-3k range, I used to feel a vibration in the engine. Today, I wasn't feeling it. I'll have to putz with it a bit more, but not really sure what's going on there?
Within the next couple of weeks I plan on doing some testing of some heat wrap in combo with POP Charger. I bought some stuff from Cool Ride Products that I had seen a while back on a European Car project turbo M3. They used the heat wrap with some sucess. I plan on using our shop pyrometer to take temps on the shield and intake pipe both before and after the heat wrap. I know it probably won't do much in the way of power gains, but I figure lowering intake temps won't hurt this year when I'm on track. I've always been curious about whether or not these heat wraps make a substantial difference in temps, so I'll see what the pyrometer tells me.
My plan right now is to cover the heat shield and the intake pipe/tube itself with the wrap. I plan on running the car the same distance at the same speeds from a cold start...then measuring temps on two points on the shield, and two points on the intake pipe. I will note air temp per my Z's thermometer. After applying the wrap, I'll do the same procedure on a different day. Any more suggestions on how to get a good reading...or anything else someone wants me to take a temp on when I'm doing this? thanks.
Last edited by J Ritt; 01-31-2004 at 05:27 PM.
01-31-2004, 05:32 PM
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I actually took my AEM CAI off yesterday due to thinking about how much it floods around here and installed the JWT popcharger I got from Performance Nissan. I am very pleased with it. For just over $100 you cant beat it. Like you said just the sound difference alone is worth it. Id definately recommend it to anyone who is thinking about getting one.
01-31-2004, 05:35 PM
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You can either reset your ECU by removing the negative cable off your battery for 24 hours and it has to be for 24 hours. The other way has to do with doing something with your pedal. That im not too sure of but im sure someone else knows how its done.
01-31-2004, 05:45 PM
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I thought I reset the ECU...I followed the procedure I saw in another post...just unhooked the negative battery terminal and played with the brake pedal for a while to drain power. I let it sit for an hour while I had dinner. Maybe I didn't reset it fully? At any rate, I didn't have any CEL's or anything, and it seems to be fine.
RodH,
I always thought that vibration had to have something to do with the flywheel, etc. I'm going to do some more experimentation in various gears, etc. The disappearance of the vibration might have just been a fluke at this point, acting under a certain condition. As I said, I'm going to play with it a bit in different gears, speeds, etc. The times when I would notice that vibration most was in a first gear stop sign-to-stop sign charge...like what I see on my commute in the AM. I rev the car up, and as I approach the next stop sign coasting, rpms would drop smoothly...the vibration would come on through that 4-3k range, and then disappear as it swept downwards.
I'll have to ask my buddy at Nismo if this could possibly be intake related. He worked at EFI doing ECUs and data acquisition for pro race teams...he knows his stuff and should have a clue as to what it could be, and if an intake could change the condition. I'm learning brakes now...haven't gotten to full engine management, etc!
I'm going out for sushi tonight, so I'll play with some more conditions on that rpm drop and see if it's really gone or not. Should be interesting...
RodH,
I always thought that vibration had to have something to do with the flywheel, etc. I'm going to do some more experimentation in various gears, etc. The disappearance of the vibration might have just been a fluke at this point, acting under a certain condition. As I said, I'm going to play with it a bit in different gears, speeds, etc. The times when I would notice that vibration most was in a first gear stop sign-to-stop sign charge...like what I see on my commute in the AM. I rev the car up, and as I approach the next stop sign coasting, rpms would drop smoothly...the vibration would come on through that 4-3k range, and then disappear as it swept downwards.
I'll have to ask my buddy at Nismo if this could possibly be intake related. He worked at EFI doing ECUs and data acquisition for pro race teams...he knows his stuff and should have a clue as to what it could be, and if an intake could change the condition. I'm learning brakes now...haven't gotten to full engine management, etc!
I'm going out for sushi tonight, so I'll play with some more conditions on that rpm drop and see if it's really gone or not. Should be interesting...
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01-31-2004, 06:08 PM
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I left the negative battery terminal off for over a day and the ECU did not reset.
It's much easier to drop by a dealer and have them plug in the consult-II, or alternatively, the idle relearn:
1. Perform EC-50, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-51, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
specifications.
Steps 1 and 2 are not essential, but if you need the directions for those I will post them. Instead of all that crap, I just take my car to a friend at the local Nissan dealer and they "clear the codes"/do a relearn. My car is actually set to idle at 700 because I was having some problems, but stock manual is 650 with an acceptable error of +/- 50.
It's much easier to drop by a dealer and have them plug in the consult-II, or alternatively, the idle relearn:
1. Perform EC-50, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-51, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
specifications.
Steps 1 and 2 are not essential, but if you need the directions for those I will post them. Instead of all that crap, I just take my car to a friend at the local Nissan dealer and they "clear the codes"/do a relearn. My car is actually set to idle at 700 because I was having some problems, but stock manual is 650 with an acceptable error of +/- 50.
01-31-2004, 06:14 PM
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u think if i drive with CEL on it would hut anythin? because the car runs better then ever with the pop charger , never been so happy, its amazing sound and the power after 4k rom is insane pick up compare to before , i mean at least for me it was a noticable differance.
01-31-2004, 06:19 PM
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I've logged some miles with the CEL on. I don't like to, but it's not the end of the world.
My friend has a 240 with intake, exhaust, etc. His CEL has been on for almost a year. It just went off yesterday, but that's because I think the light burned out.
My friend has a 240 with intake, exhaust, etc. His CEL has been on for almost a year. It just went off yesterday, but that's because I think the light burned out.
01-31-2004, 06:24 PM
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lol, yea i would bug the hell out of me probobly...i'm jus gonna come up with some excuse and put my stock filter back on and tell them to reset it and then put the jwt back on , it went off becasue my brother actually messed with it and then wanted to drive but he startedit with the electric cabe unpluged... i know , retard... lol , j/k , but before that it was fine , thanks for the info tho
01-31-2004, 06:28 PM
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well at least you know the problem. there's nothing to worry about. i ran the car without the MAF sensor unplugged. It's not a big deal. The CEL went off after a bit of driving if I remember correctly.
01-31-2004, 06:32 PM
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ok cool , it went off actualy 2 days ago , i'm hoping it would go off by monday.... do u think i sould put stock one back on so it will turn off maybe? or just wait.... i dont know , i was worried but i dunno , i'm just so damn happy wth the popcharger that i forget but then its rigt there ... kinda annoying ... just me i guess
01-31-2004, 07:03 PM
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no it had nothing to do with the JWT filter. The ECU needs the readings from the MAF sensor to ensure it's functioning within its parameters. if it doesn't have this data, from an emissions standpoint, it assumes it is functioning outside of parameters, and to a degree it is, and triggers the CEL.
01-31-2004, 08:05 PM
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Maybe I am not following this correctly..
If I were to get the pop charger, install it, correctly, it will not throw the CEL right?
This kinda makes it sound like you HAVE to reset for the CEL to not be thrown..
Yeah I know I'm dumb.
If I were to get the pop charger, install it, correctly, it will not throw the CEL right?
This kinda makes it sound like you HAVE to reset for the CEL to not be thrown..
Yeah I know I'm dumb.
01-31-2004, 08:22 PM
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Originally posted by Jsn350Z
Maybe I am not following this correctly..
If I were to get the pop charger, install it, correctly, it will not throw the CEL right?
This kinda makes it sound like you HAVE to reset for the CEL to not be thrown..
Yeah I know I'm dumb.
Maybe I am not following this correctly..
If I were to get the pop charger, install it, correctly, it will not throw the CEL right?
This kinda makes it sound like you HAVE to reset for the CEL to not be thrown..
Yeah I know I'm dumb.
01-31-2004, 08:30 PM
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it didnt come on when i installed it , it more then perfect and i think its better then other intakes, i messed up and thats why the light is on , plus u dont have to reset it , at east i dont thik , people do it just to be safer....