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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 01:51 PM
  #61  
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The torque is crazy low, its like 30-40 in/lbs
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 03:10 PM
  #62  
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Seems extremely simple! I have never worked on this motor however so I will probably take my time on it haha. What does MD stand for? Sorry, but I would like to know the torque specs for sure!
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 03:17 PM
  #63  
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http://www.motordyneengineering.com/
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 10:38 PM
  #64  
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Sweet thanks, on this site he has a basic one too. So should I do basic than or iso thermal, obviously copper is out of the picture :P Also, are there any other parts I will need to pick up for this job or any other tools? Recommend me doing any kind of maintenance while in there or nothing is recommended?
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 04:20 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by ZBeastZ
Sweet thanks, on this site he has a basic one too. So should I do basic than or iso thermal, obviously copper is out of the picture :P Also, are there any other parts I will need to pick up for this job or any other tools? Recommend me doing any kind of maintenance while in there or nothing is recommended?
Go basic. All you need is pliers, Sockets and ratchet.
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 07:37 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by oldschool350z
You could do what I did and buy used. personally loved my agency power catback. It sounded great and looked amazing.
u tryna sell it?
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 02:17 PM
  #67  
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Okay basic it is! Thanks
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 11:24 AM
  #68  
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I read a DIY guide on the plenum spacer and people were asking about the gasket. Do I use the spacer and the gasket or just the spacer?
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #69  
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I used both.
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 02:35 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by ZBeastZ
I read a DIY guide on the plenum spacer and people were asking about the gasket. Do I use the spacer and the gasket or just the spacer?
The spacer has a paper like gasket already on it. No need for the OEM gasket (motordynes spacer at least)
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #71  
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I just used the spacer and chunked the oem gasket. Don't think it would matter either way. BTW, if I were you I would get the ISO thermal kit, it's not much more $$ anyway. The coolant line valve will be closed, given your location, I would assume 99 percent of the time anyway. On the rare occasion when the weather gets cold you could open it up. But the majority of the time the valve would be closed and there would be no hot water flowing to your throttle body. The whole idea of the spacer is to get more cool air to the engine.

I'm no expert at all but just giving my opinion.
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 09:16 AM
  #72  
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Okay I wont use the gasket, cap11 I hear you, I dont understand the whole water flowing through it thing, anyone agree or disagree with getting the iso thermal after reading what he said?
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 01:33 PM
  #73  
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The price difference was only like $25 if I remember right. The $25 buys you the aramid gasket, two hose barbs, & the coolant shut off valve. Not too bad in my mind but everyone needs to decide for themselves.
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 01:35 PM
  #74  
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You dont need the isothermal, do you really want 210* water warming up the air going into your motor? Counter productive!
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 01:47 PM
  #75  
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Conway your incorrect. The oem design is for hot water to flow through the throttle body. The isothermal kit comes with a valve that allows you to shut this off.
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 03:22 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Cap11
Conway your incorrect. The oem design is for hot water to flow through the throttle body. The isothermal kit comes with a valve that allows you to shut this off.
Or you could by a regular one and just cap of the water lines...
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 05:31 PM
  #77  
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Very true but for $25 and an isothermal gasket which should help with keeping the plenum cool, I felt it was worth it. To each his own.

But the bottom line is the isothermal kit does not send hot water to the throttle body. In fact it supplies you the plumbing to close it off.
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