I'm actually missing a bolt on my front strut bar cause it got stripped, oh well. I also stripped the head of a bolt on the heat shield when trying to install my injen intake and had to get it removed by the dealer for $70. You'll figure something out

 

an easy out/extractor is your best bet and you will need the appropriate drill bit for the size extractor you use

 

Ok, I really dont want to have to go buy a stupid extractor set from somewhere just to get this damn thing out. What types of shops would have something they could get it out with? Surely they wouldnt charge more than like $5 for one screw if it is such a simple procedure. After all, as it was said in this thread, the right tool makes all the difference.

 

What I did when this happend to me on the intake manifold for my Celica is:
1) Drill a hole so that is just bearely smaler than the screw.
2) When you have a hole that is about 1/8-1/16 of an inch take an allen wrench and hammer it into to hole.
3) unscrew.
It has worked for me several time. I have not seen this method anywere though.

 

The extractor is by far the best way, and also the easiest to get that out without damaging anything else. It's really inexpensive to boot (compared to the procharger at least (<$20 for a 10 piece set which includes the extractors and correct bits for each extractor).

Look at it as an excuse to buy another tool which is always a good thing.

Good Luck,

 

don't forget to get that nice cordless drill to go with the extractor set ....

its an easy DIY....

 

Definatley the quickest, easiest, cheapest, and best way is with a screw extractor/easy out. Buck up and spend the 10 or so dollars for an easy out and bit, borrow a drill and be done with it.

You could already be driving your car by now.

 

Sell the car and buy a new one.......

 

UPDATE: The longest install of a popcharger is now complete! I got a friend to take me to a machine shop and they pulled it out in no time and charged me $5... I'd rather do that than by tools to clutter my dorm room and risk f*cking it up. Anyway, it is installed and running nice. I love the BOV sound upon revving it. It makes the stock exhaust sound much deeper. Haven't had a chance to drive it (two cops circling me as I installed it), but I will soon...

 

This happened to me but with a plenum bolt. Simple fix:

1. Drill a small hole in the top of the screw to give the screw extractor something to bite into.
2. Mount the screw extractor to the drill, set drill to reverse, and then stick it in the drilled hole.
3. Pull trigger, and smile as the screw reverses out.

 

Heh, the Popcharger does that too, huh? My Stillen intake does that; anybody know what causes it?

 

Buy the twist type extractor,less chance of twisting or breaking;buy a good set with an assortment of sizes.If you plan on doing any work on cars or home in the future you will have plenty of times they will save you.Don't be afraid,use caution to drill dead center and contain all chips,good luck!

 

Hey zand02max,
I did the same thing you did when I installed my popcharger. I've been driving around with only 3 bolts for about a month now and haven't had any problems but still feel that I should fix it. I'm thinking about doing the same thing you did or eventually replacing the MAF tube.

How's the superglue holding up?

BTW I called JWT and they said I should be fine with only 3 bolts.


ISH

 

Superglue is holding great, no problems so far.

 

The problem with extractors is that they are very hard, which makes them very brittle. For bolts that are really stuck, the extractor is very likely to break off in the bolt. Even for bolts that aren't stuck all that tight, flexing the extractor off axis *just a little bit* while trying to turn out the bolt, will make it snap. Now you have a real mess because the extractor is so hard that you can't drill it out.

There are at least five other ways to remove a broken bolt. If it isn't stuck too bad, just center drilling it with a *left hand bit*, will often bring it right out. Drilling out the center of the bolt relieves pressure on the threads, often making it easy to back out.

If that doesn't work, you can just keep drilling the hole larger until you almost reach the minor diameter of the thread. Then take a pick and *unwind* the remaining bolt threads out of the hole.

Or, you can fill the cavity with nitric acid. Nitric acid will eat the steel, but it won't touch the aluminum. It may take a couple of days (much quicker if you heat the acid), but this method always works for a steel bolt stuck in aluminum.

Or, you can weld a nut on the broken bolt, and turn it out with a wrench. This is the most commonly used method for removing broken studs from a cast iron engine block. It works with an aluminum block too, but you have to be a bit careful so you don't melt the aluminum. A good welder can do this fairly easily. A *good* welder can even do it if the bolt is broken off below the surface.

Or, when all else fails, take it to a machine shop with a EDM machine. That machine will simply electrically machine out the broken bolt without touching the piece in which it is stuck. This is the preferred method of anyone who has access to an EDM.

 

Glad to hear it. I actually bought the MAF tube from toykilla's car for $30. His car was totalled but the MAF tube and more importantly he survived. I've been driving around for more than a month with only 3 bolts and no problems so far but I still wanted to replace it just in case I have some sort of engine problem and need to put the stock box back before I bring the car to the dealer.

Hopefully I won't damage the MAF sensor while swapping the tubes.....

 

The EXACT same thing happened to me! I just gave up and returned it though...I was tired of messing with it.

 

If you have a Dremel or some kind of thin file tool, you can score a slit into it (like that of a flat head screw head) and then use a flat head to remove it...

If you want to send me your velocity ring, I will remove it for you...

Unfortunlatly in order to get that plastic MAF piece you must purchase the whole MAF sensor...

here is a link, you wont like the price... Ill see if I can find one laying around for you...

http://www.performancenissanparts.co...roducts_id=434

Best solution if you dont have a way to get that screw out... send it to me Ill take it out for you, give me return postage... Maybe I can find a MAF housing for you and a new screw too...

 

OEM Mass Air Flow Sensor 350z- $400.00

 

All intakes will make that sound when you tap the gas. The sound is air rushing into the intake. Its normal. the reason you don't hear it on a stock car is because the stock box is restrictive and tuned to keep sound quiet.