Pop charger installed... MPG question
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Pop charger installed... MPG question
Hey guys just installed my pop charger yesterday and it sound AMAZING and i do feel a little gain and when iam at high rpms it just sounds amazing. Although ive been looking at my MPG and it it looks like im getting less MPG i use to get 19 mpg easy now im having a hard time getting 17 it was at 13mpg at one point. I thought more air to engine would be better MPG. Does my ecu have to take a day or 2 to get used to the more air or what?
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You must really be putting your foot on it to get 13 MPG. After installing the JWT intake, I find myself pushing the pedal just to hear that sound. But I'm getting 22.9 MPG still.
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hmmm intresting i cant seem to get over 18.... anyone else have this problem or maybe its something i did wrong. Any suggestions would help thx.
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I get right at 30 MPG on the highway with the cruise set at 76 MPH. In town i avg 23.5....about what i always have, maybe a little more.
You might be suffereing from really putting your foot into it to hear the popcharger ;-) I did the same thing when i first installed mine.
You might be suffereing from really putting your foot into it to hear the popcharger ;-) I did the same thing when i first installed mine.
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No stalling problems. As for MPG I have gotten 24 before for about 3 days. Unfortunately I too suffer from lead foot syndrome and can't keep myself from mashing the pedal just to hear it growl.
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Sobe - it seems like your mpg's have been hit pretty hard - but the main thing to remember is the whole reason (other than the noise) of a popcharger is to allow your fuel delivery system to inject more gas;
Popcharger is more free flowing than stock, hence more air goes up your inlet tract. Luckily you have a MAF (plus o2 sensor in exhaust tract) which effectively measures the amount of air going in. "Hold on a minute" (it says!) "there is some more air going in today" (this being because your POP is fitted) "I better adjust the mixture". The injectors deliver more gas to maintain the correct a/f ratio and BINGO! (more power)
So, if you want more power, it will generally be at the expense of poorer MPG. As I mentioned, yours is an exteme case and is perhaps connected to a heavy right foot?!!
Popcharger is more free flowing than stock, hence more air goes up your inlet tract. Luckily you have a MAF (plus o2 sensor in exhaust tract) which effectively measures the amount of air going in. "Hold on a minute" (it says!) "there is some more air going in today" (this being because your POP is fitted) "I better adjust the mixture". The injectors deliver more gas to maintain the correct a/f ratio and BINGO! (more power)
So, if you want more power, it will generally be at the expense of poorer MPG. As I mentioned, yours is an exteme case and is perhaps connected to a heavy right foot?!!
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Originally posted by tremayne
Sobe - it seems like your mpg's have been hit pretty hard - but the main thing to remember is the whole reason (other than the noise) of a popcharger is to allow your fuel delivery system to inject more gas;
Popcharger is more free flowing than stock, hence more air goes up your inlet tract. Luckily you have a MAF (plus o2 sensor in exhaust tract) which effectively measures the amount of air going in. "Hold on a minute" (it says!) "there is some more air going in today" (this being because your POP is fitted) "I better adjust the mixture". The injectors deliver more gas to maintain the correct a/f ratio and BINGO! (more power)
So, if you want more power, it will generally be at the expense of poorer MPG. As I mentioned, yours is an exteme case and is perhaps connected to a heavy right foot?!!
Sobe - it seems like your mpg's have been hit pretty hard - but the main thing to remember is the whole reason (other than the noise) of a popcharger is to allow your fuel delivery system to inject more gas;
Popcharger is more free flowing than stock, hence more air goes up your inlet tract. Luckily you have a MAF (plus o2 sensor in exhaust tract) which effectively measures the amount of air going in. "Hold on a minute" (it says!) "there is some more air going in today" (this being because your POP is fitted) "I better adjust the mixture". The injectors deliver more gas to maintain the correct a/f ratio and BINGO! (more power)
So, if you want more power, it will generally be at the expense of poorer MPG. As I mentioned, yours is an exteme case and is perhaps connected to a heavy right foot?!!
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Originally posted by RoadRagerInTherapy
MyZ4U2C:
Any stalling problems with the JWT Pop-charger?
MyZ4U2C:
Any stalling problems with the JWT Pop-charger?
#12
If you are stalling, you might want to reset your ecu...
I have the popcharger and borla exhaust.. my mileage is around 19mpg city and 26mpg highway.. For 13 mpg, you'd must put your pedal to the metal a lot
--mike
I have the popcharger and borla exhaust.. my mileage is around 19mpg city and 26mpg highway.. For 13 mpg, you'd must put your pedal to the metal a lot
--mike
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Yeah I thought the more air your car got the more MPG's you get but your post tremayne does make since and yes i always find myself gunning it i try not to and now i make an easy 17mpg. if i try really hard ill get 20ish =). Well anyway I appreciate the posts. But yes I would like someone to explain which way it is.
More MPG or Less MPG?
More MPG or Less MPG?
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Fritz,
Let me explain in simpler terms..... Hold on , the ones I already used were pretty simple?
Are you judging intellect on my number of posts? This perhaps could explain your one line dismissal of what was a perfectly sound answer. Said 'dissmissal' will explain why I have replied in the way I have.
Once again;
Your car has an ability to determine the air/fuel ratio and will attempt to adjust its own mixture (within reason) to reach this 'ideal' ratio.
The ratio employed will not be particularly adventurous (ie lean) in the general interest of engine longeivity and differing parts tolerances. But the main thing is that the car can change to suit (Fritz - plse remember this part).
Effecting a mod such as a filter , plenum , exhuast , etc - you are allowing the engine to 'breath' more easily (get more air/fuel in during the same space of time). The whole essence of allowing this is to get more power. Where is it coming from? More air? Yes , more air = more oxygen , so thats good. More air and no more fuel = leaner air/fuel ratio , which in real performance terms is good aswell (because we know that the Z will be set up on the safe side of things). However, thats not the way your car will neccessarily see it (tho you might see it run a little leaner) .
To retain its desired a/f ratio , your car will deliver more fuel. This is where the power is coming from. This is where the slight decrease to mpg is coming from. At steady revs, the engine will probably be more efficient than was previously the case. However, you now have more power under acceleration and a greater ability to burn fuel. The more you up your max HP , the more opportunity you have for seriously low mpg.
In the old days of carbs , a K&N filter and racing pipe would generally dictate a slightly larger main jet. Why? To deliver more fuel. Why? Because more air is going in.
So Fritz , if you have an engine that runs on Air , I suggest you market it. Perhaps you mean't hot air?
Let me explain in simpler terms..... Hold on , the ones I already used were pretty simple?
Are you judging intellect on my number of posts? This perhaps could explain your one line dismissal of what was a perfectly sound answer. Said 'dissmissal' will explain why I have replied in the way I have.
Once again;
Your car has an ability to determine the air/fuel ratio and will attempt to adjust its own mixture (within reason) to reach this 'ideal' ratio.
The ratio employed will not be particularly adventurous (ie lean) in the general interest of engine longeivity and differing parts tolerances. But the main thing is that the car can change to suit (Fritz - plse remember this part).
Effecting a mod such as a filter , plenum , exhuast , etc - you are allowing the engine to 'breath' more easily (get more air/fuel in during the same space of time). The whole essence of allowing this is to get more power. Where is it coming from? More air? Yes , more air = more oxygen , so thats good. More air and no more fuel = leaner air/fuel ratio , which in real performance terms is good aswell (because we know that the Z will be set up on the safe side of things). However, thats not the way your car will neccessarily see it (tho you might see it run a little leaner) .
To retain its desired a/f ratio , your car will deliver more fuel. This is where the power is coming from. This is where the slight decrease to mpg is coming from. At steady revs, the engine will probably be more efficient than was previously the case. However, you now have more power under acceleration and a greater ability to burn fuel. The more you up your max HP , the more opportunity you have for seriously low mpg.
In the old days of carbs , a K&N filter and racing pipe would generally dictate a slightly larger main jet. Why? To deliver more fuel. Why? Because more air is going in.
So Fritz , if you have an engine that runs on Air , I suggest you market it. Perhaps you mean't hot air?
Last edited by tremayne; 03-08-2004 at 01:47 PM.
#15
Just to add a bit to what Tremayne has said. The reason the car gets more air (and more fuel) is a reduction in the restriction of the stock filter versus the filter in the pop charger. Think about it as an opening. The engine is essentially sucking in the air/fuel mixture as the piston moves down in the cylinder. The smaller the opening, the more resistance there is and the less air gets into the cylinder. The larger opening (less restriction of the filter) allows more air to flow in. However, the MAF (mass airflow) sensor reads the airflow and adjusts the FI system accordingly. So, when you open the throttle body, with the PO charger you should get more air and fuel in every cylinder stroke, increasing power and blueprint more gas.... However, at a steady state (70 MPH) on the freeway, the reduced restriction should reduce the energy required to suck the right amount of air/gas into the cylinders, resulting in a mileage increase. As the difference in "saved" energy sucking is relatively small compared to the air, wheel, and friction resistance to move the car at that speed, the gain is probably almost negligable. However, the loss when you are accelerating is real as you are burning more gas, so the combination is a net reduction. The answer is to try for one tank accelerating slightly less aggressively and seeing if it comes up. Otherwise you may have damaged your MAF sensor in the installation and your engine may be running rich all the time, though that should generate a check engine light from the oxygen sensor not seeing a oxygen "nuetral" environment. The goal of the oxygen sensor is to feed back to the EMU when the exhaust is almost free of unburned oxygen. This also adjusts the fuel input to the engine. The goal of the system is to keep the engine at the stoichiometric ratio, where all of the fuel and oxygen are burned into CO2 and H2O minimizing components that generate CO and Nox emissions. Also, this optimizes the performance of the catalytic converter to convert CO to CO2. If the engine is running rich, the EMU should reduce the gas to see slight traces of oxygen in the exhaust. The MAF is an input to kick up the fuel when the air flow rises rapidly when the throttle body is opened for acceleration. The system then dumps in gas to generate a rapid acceleration essentially causing the engine to be richer during the acceleration. This is why there were large acceleration barrels on two or four barrel carburetors to dump fuel in to rapidly accelerate. So, with the pop charger, the fuel use really goes up in hard acceleration, because it is less restrictive, more "efficient" and generates a faster power increase (that butt test feel).
Last edited by audiophil350z; 05-16-2014 at 12:09 AM.
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