I just installed the K&N Typhoon, and my idle seems really wierd, like every 20-30 seconds it seems like the engine tries to shut off and the idle goes to like 300RPM and then back up. Idle is around 500-600, but never really stays that steady. To me it seems as if something with the MAF is off, but everything is re-connected and seems tight to me. The check engine light is not on, but I also have only driven about 2-3 miles.

Any ideas? I'm about to go to the track in about 10 min, so any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

 

That's interesting that you only changed the filter and now you are getting that. I had the exact same problem when I first installed my KINETIX V1 plenum. The car would idle fine for about 30 to 45 seconds, then the rpms would bog down for about 10 seconds, then the rpms would go back up. I assume it was caused by a leak somewhere because with the new version 2 plenum, the idle is rock-solid.

Last week I installed a Pop Charger and the idle is no different. It just seems weird that changing the filter would effect it like that. I would just suggest going back and making sure everything is nice and tight. Also, make sure that none of the hoses are damaged at all. It's possible that the hose going to the bottom of the intake pipe might have gotten a tear?

That's what I'd check, anyway.

-Chris

 

Almost sounds to me like there may be unmetered ait getting into the engine. Is the PCV line reconnected?

 

sorry ti sounds like you somehow damaged the MAF sensor while putting it into the single metal tube... or you maybe put the MAF sensor in backwards?

 

yea this is also the problem for my g35 as well...is it how it suppose to be or is it something wrong with the installation

 

I didn't just change the filter, I installed the K&N Typhoon intake. I am thinking the MAF sensor must be damaged, but I have no idea how that would happen....I was really careful. It's definitely not backwards, otherwise the push part of it to take it off would be on the bottom....I did connect the PCV line.

Any ideas as to what I should do? Should I put the stock back on and see what happens? Any easier way?

 

Well, if you put the stock back in, the only constant would be the MAF, and you will have identified the problem if your symptoms continue afterwards. Hope that it is only a bad connection and a minor leak. Aren't those MAF's expensive??

 

I have a coupe and have had both the stillen air box and the injen intake. I had the same problem with wierd idle, my car would even die after high revs. I took off the Stillen and put the stock back on. Problem was gone, then I a couple of days later I put on the Injen along with the crawford plenum and the problem returned. I unhooked my battery over night and then I drove normally for about 2-3 weeks and the problem dissapeared. This was back in October. Recently I had my transmission replaced and when the battery was unplugged at the dealer it must have reset my cpu, the problem came back, but after a few days, it went away again.

 

Check the hose that goes to the intake tube.

Perform the idle air volume leaning procedure.

I doubt you damaged the MAF sensor. I have had mine out many times with no problems.

It may hiccup a little . . .to solve this I raised my idle by 75 rpm.

 

Very odd...the problem seems to be gone now.

VandyZ, can you explain the idle air volume leaning procedure? Just curious to know more about that.

Thanks for all your responses guys!

 

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

 

you can ignore steps 1 and 2.

 

And what exactly does it do?

 

I have the same problem, I installed my jwt popcharger and now I have that crappy idle that sounds like its going to conk out.

Also, my cel came on so I reset the ecu, then about a day and a half later the cel came back on, I have reset the ecu again. I have heard that it has to learn this mod but does this mean it is going to throw the cel until it does so? The search function is screwed up or else I would use that.

My maf is fine (was extremely careful with it) and everything is snug. Has anyone had this idle problem and gotten a grounding kit (has that helped)? I just ordered one today.

 

make sure you put the maf sensor plug on tight , did you get a service engine soon light on?

 

I didn't get a service engine soon light....

Also, I have a grounding kit sitting here, but I won't be installing it for a couple weeks, as I need to dyno the car with just the intake first.

 

Has any one elses service engine soon light come on after resetting the ecu? Do you just ignore it and it goes away after the ecu "learns" the mod?

 

I had the same with my Injen CAI. Crappy idle!
The MAF is so sensitive! I installed it as short ram and the idle was fine.
Changed to CAI again - car is idling bad.
Changed to Short ram again - all right.

 

Usually a CEL will go away after resetting the ECU, not appear. That's just weird!

-Chris