exactly, who voted that it cracked? Speak up!

Hey Big show, I have a suggestion. Is it possible that the plenum is vibrating against your strut bar? I don't even know if you put it back on yet, but if you did, this is a possibility.

If you think this is possibly it, just raise the strut bar by extending it at the adjustment bolt so that it lifts away from the plenum. I actually put two washers underneath each mounting point of the strut bar so that now I can pass 2-3 plastic ties beneath the strut bar and the plenum.

Hope this helps, because, other than that, I don't what else could be causing a noise. I have no noise from air turbulence on mine.

 

Installed my V3 last night after cracked V2.....fitment was tighter than previous, but no problems. We'll see how my V3 holds up with a 75 shot of nitrous.

 

Now THAT'S something that I am interested to know! If it works out ok, that might open some possibilities that I hadn't been considering.

 

Yeah, I'm really interested in this little experiment with nitrous. I want to dyno first for *safety*. Have to wait until finals are over next week to get some time to do this. Fluidz has been holding the kit for me for a couple of months now. I jsut don't have enough time to even pick it up from him!! I'm writing a final paper now and keep getting distracted by this forum! I think I need some ritalin...............

 

I'll be hooking up a 100 shot within a couple weeks. I've got everything, just have to find someone to install it.

 

yeah, it's startin to sound more and more like a vibration. how close is the strut bar to the hood already? i don't want to raise it, then put dents in my hood. thanks.

 

You should be able to safely raise the bar about 1/8th of an inch without any trouble. It will give you the clearence you need. Another option would be to remove the bar and glue/tape a small piece of foam or sponge to the bottom of the bar (similar to what's on the bottom of the engine cover) then reinstall the bar and see what you get. If that is the cause of the noise, it may deaden the vibration.

-Chris

 

I have that weird sound... first was the strut bar that was touching the plenum, I take it off and the vibration was gone but have that weird sound at 3000, I conclude that is made because of the material of the plenum... two friends of mine have it too...

 

it doesn't fit now.

 

if i ever get my new zex ecm ill be testing a 150 shot


ecm was bad when i bought the kit

 

I'm beginning to think that some of these issues aren't related to the quality of the product, rather the experience of the installer. It's a pretty easy install, but some of you may want to consider getting it installed by someone else with more experience.

 

I think that you may be correct! That's why a good inch pound torque wrench is a good idea to get when installing. Once it clicks, stop tightening. Just to see I tightened a bolt down to specs with the torque wrench, then took it off and tried to tighten it a little more with a regular socket and it would turn more. Once it gets to the right torque, your'e done. You don't need to overcrank the bolts. I'm sure that's not the case 100% of the time, but I think that it may be the case more often than not.

-Chris

 

I consider myself a pretty good installer and I own an inch-pound wrench. I cracked two version 2's. Not all cracked plenums are due to user error. I have said it before and I will say it again: the counter-sunk bolts were a bad idea. However, my version 3 is going stong and I like it alot.

 

rattlin was from the raised rear bolts for the engine cover hittin the strut tower. i have taken both off, and i am goin to order a crawford bar.

 

Hey BigShow,

Before you spend that money, try attaching the engine cover with just the front 2 bolts. That's how I have had mine since I installed it a few months ago and it's fine. No rattle and the front 2 bolts are more than enough to hold the cover in place. It's worth a try before you buy that ghastly straight bar.

-Chris

 

well, the main reason is how close the bar sits on the plenum without it. i don't think an 8th of an inch would b enough to give me the piece of mind i could have with a bar just going in front of it.

 

Those with the V3 how many miles have you been driving?

 

Big show, try my fix, It costs like $1.
All I did was purchase 16 washers at Home depot. I put 2 under each strut bar mount, This raises the bar mount by about 1/8-3/16 of an inch. This gives ample clearance to the bar and plenum. after words, I closed the hood. (I didn't drop it, I gently closed it to the catch, then pressed it down the rest of the way until it was closed) It fits fine, no bending of the hood at all. If you look inside the hood, there are pads on the inside that sit against the strut bar anyway, you are just compressing them a little more. Give my $1 fix a chance before you drop $200.

I also agree, about not using the rear bolts on the engine cover, it fits snug with no vibration w/o the rear bolts.

 

yeah, a guy here at work suggested that. tryin to get those washers on while u're boltin it down could get interesting though.

 

It was easier than I thought. I only dropped one set. I put the sets on the one stud post first and then tightened those snug enough that there was a little pressure on the other bolt sets so that they wouldn't just slide out. But, if it weren't for my magnetic pickup, i would have had to undoe one whole side to get the pair that fell underneath the mount. Of course, the set that slipped was the last of the 8 sets!

Back to the original purpose of this thread, I drove with the plenum for about 120 miles yesterday. (round-trip) It was about 85 - 88 degrees, and I had no problems, and no cracks. My v2 died after my first 20+ mile trip. So far, so good with this v3.