Ordered mine today with two day fedex so i am very excited to be hearing all of this good news.

 

Install the strut bar bolts loosely, then extend the bar (turn the nut by hand) until it just barely touches the bolts. This will raise the bar and should eliminate any rubbing. Then, of course, tighten everything down.

 

Installed my v4 this morning and it's running great so far

 

I have to agree with LSDUNIQUE, I have the same "crack on my plenum, exact same crack, but it is not a crack. It is a small imperfection from the mold in my opinion, I tried the water thing and it did not suck in the water, I had my wife rev the motor while I watched the plenum and it was not a crack.

 

Dude you do not re torque bolts that have lock tite on them it defeats the whole purpose. If you clean your bolts and apply lock tite and torque them down and do not bother them for around 2 hours you will not have this problem.

 

I went ahead and checked my V4 out today and didn't notice any imperfections. At least there is one less thing to worry about. I did indeed find that the bolts were very loose or should I say not to torque specifications (like someone had mentioned previously) not like loose where they can be removed with ones hand. I went ahead and re-torqued them and I must say it sounds a lot better now. All of the bolts needed to be torqued down to 6 lb-ft. As "bobd" mentioned the strut bars hieght can be adusted by loosening the to outside nuts and then turning the middle nut towards you (if you are in front of the car) with the cresent wrench. this will extend the strut bar enough to provide sufficient clearence. I don't know if this is needed but make sure that the bolts on the base of the strut bar are slightly loose when performing this. I can't really say if the gains are noticable but I'm happy with the product and planning on sticking around with the plenum. Now, I can't wait for the resonated test pipes.

David

 

I just read the above. I couldn't wait two hours. That might be why the bolts needed to be re torqued. Does that mean I have to clean the bolts and re apply loctite to prevent them from loosening up again.

David

 

absolutely. take them out and spray them with brake cleaner to make sure they are very clean. I would use the red lock tite or blue, the red is how should I say, "stronger" put on a few drops on the end of the bolt and re install. wait like I said 2 hours, even better let it sit over night and you will be golden dude, no question.

 

Hey LSDUNIQUE, I installed the high flow cats today. Install was as easy as the test pipes, only took 1 hour 15 minutes on jack stands with air tools. They sound great! and I see no power loss after switching from the test pipes. Keep up the good work Kinetix!

 

Yes it would defeat the purpose of the loctite wouldn't it ... assuming you do not know how to properly check a loctite'd nut/bolt.

The proper way to re-check loctite'd nuts/bolts is to set the tolerance (I used -15%) and run through all the bolts. If any of them moved then back them out completely, re-loctite and torque to spec once again.

I've inspected all the bolts and found the typical single dab of loctite at the tip of the thread was getting caught up by the cork gasket, as the bolts pass through it, leaving very little amount on the thread where it matters the most. On top of this, cork does dry and shrink after a quick heat cycle ... it's not surprising to me the torque spec have lowered.

By the way, my seal was bad enough for me to hear a prominent 'hiss' at idle speed, which was not present just a couple of weeks back. All should be noted that spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid (what I used) didn't do a darn thing as far as altering the idle speed. This leak also explains why the car felt a bit 'flat' (especially low to mid end in higher gears) for the past week or so.

All is ok now after the re-torque. For a piece of mind, I did go ahead and clean the excess cork material, so the bolts have clear shots to the lower plenum threads.


Agreed. 2 hours should do the trick.

 

I guess I have to get under the hood again soon. I'll just wait till I get the test pipes and do it all at once.


thanks,


David

 

Do you guys think I need to check the six bolts on the inside? I probably will just to make sure. I would hate for on of those to come loose. That would be a disaster.
Great, more work. Better safe than sorry!

 

The chance of those one coming loose are almost nill if you used loctite on them. The ones prone to coming lose are the one around the plenum and the throttle body.

 

i would try to install my sturt bar like htat, but those damn bolts wont even budge.

 

jun14scr, if you mean the nuts that hold the threaded rod in place & not "boltd" then it is because they are reverse thread. turn the 3 endnuts in reverse to loosen them, then turn the center nut to turn the whole threaded rod, you will imediately see the strut bar lift up. i did not loosten any bolts as some mentioned above. all the bolts at the bases were tight. i just loosened the nuts on the pass side of the astrut bar & adjusted it, then retightened the nuts. worked perfectly, 45 second fix!

-justin

 

 

piece of crap. just buy crawford already

 

I believe my heart rate is now getting back to normal after reading all these posts.

 

Mine actually makes this noise as well whenever I open it up (in neutral or in gear). I only have a K and N filter and no other mods on the engine up front.

 

Man... you folks are a lot more forgiving and patient than me... how many versions is Kinetix up to now?

Crawford Plenum v1 Polished here running under 9+lbs of boost...
0 cracks
0 imperfections
0 headaches or worries whatsoever!
same performance gains

I believe Crawford is now on a v5, but not because the original designs were suffering failures...

I hope you guys can enjoy your Kinetex plenums without worry or unnecessary babysitting... in the meantime, I will be continuing to enjoy my worry free Crawford plenum!

BTW, I'm not in or near Nashville.