oliver,

drew (above) is my n2o guru. He used to spray in his mustang back in the day. Anyways, I remembered somethign about teflon being bad for this and all that stuff. But since I am kinda not all that knowloedgeable on this stuff, I decided to ask him to respond.

Anywho ... hope that info help, and I really do suspect that this was the problem in this case. At least you got a nice new intake out of it ....

 

Hey, thanks guys, I'm gonna redo everything and use that paste that drew was talking about. I'm gonna order that nitrous filter as well. Hopefully everything will work out.

 

that paste is included in the NX kit. its that red thread sealer in a small tube. 1 should be enough for everything twice over. dont put too much on. its a pain if you ever have to take it off again.

they actually said in the manual not to use any type of sealing tape other then what came with the kit.

 

i still dont see how that could of caused your intake to blow up though. unless a piece of that teflon tore off and got caught in your nitrous seleniod and caused it to stick open??

 

The backfire he got is because he was running too fuel rich. In other words, something was stopping enough nitrous from flowing to yield normal combustion. A piece of teflon tape that came loose and lodged in the nitrous valve could do that.

 

Why? One syllable, everyone knows what you mean, and its just cooler than "nitrous".

 

Sorry to hear about your mishap with the nitrous. I can promise you that the cause of your problem (provided you are using a "wet" system) is that you did not have nitrous flow to the engine when the system was activated. A number of things can cause this; however, I am guessing since you just had your bottle refilled the issue was the bottle pressure was too high (more is not always better). Nitrous solenoids are designed to open against a given supply pressure (nitrous pressure). If the nitrous pressure is too high, the solenoid does not have enough power to open (i.e. overcome the force of the nitrous sitting up against the plunger in the solenoid).

Solution: NEVER exceed 1000psig on your bottle. If the bottle pressure is above 1000psig, either purge it off, or remove the bottle from the car, hold it upside down (this positions the dip tube in vapor instead of liquid) and vent the bottle for ~10 seconds. Once the pressure is below 1000 psig....install it and spray away.

I raced modified super stock for years (best time of 7.91 @ 172 in 3320lb car) and unfortunetly experienced this a number of times when trying to eek, tweek and squeek every last horsepower out of my combination.

 

That's actually an excellent point g35irish. There was a time when I had my car out in the hot sun and when I opened my bottle the gauge was maxxed out past 1500 psi. I tried to purge but it wouldn't. Like you said I believe the the purge solenoid didn't have the power to open against that pressure. See I checked to see if my solenoids opened and closed but not under pressure. I'm going to have to test that out. I believe my pressure was at around 1050 though, not sure if that's too much for the solenoid but we'll soon see. So here's the hypotheses so far:

1. Pressure too high and nitrous solenoid didn't open.

2. Teflon tape blocked nitrous jet.

Thanks guys, this is real helpful

 

Hey CyberZ350. Thanks for the write-up and pictures of your NX- NOS installation. Have you been to the track to test? If so, how did that go? Thanks.

 

1050psi should not be a problem. actually thats just where its supposed to be when you spray. if they did lock up at that pressure then they're defective.

 

what rpm did they start the run at? if they started it to low that couldve been a problem

also, whyd they do the run in 5th? most dyno runs ive seen were made in 4th (1:1)

 

automatic trannys run in 5th where its 1to1. i dont think cyber350 has an auto though.

 

I did the run in 5th gear because I believe thats where its 1 to 1 on our tranny. And I do have the manual 6 speed. Basically the procedure was get it to 5th gear get it down to around 2K rpms. I hit the button to start logging. He floors it and keeps it down till just before redline. I flip the switch to activate the nitrous at 3500 rpms and I flip it off at 6K just in case. Again, the explosion happened at around 4500 rpms.

 

Update on the testing:

Per g35irish, I tested out my nitrous solenoid under pressure. I first tested my heater. Everything seems to heat up nice and quick. Pressure gets up to 1050 and stops and stays right around that range not getting any higher. I disconnected my fuel solenoid so as not to spray fuel all over my engine bay and then I activated the nitrous system and floored the accelerator. A nice cloud of nitrous came right out of the solenoid. And this was at the highest pressure of 1050. So after doing this test I feel that it's safe to assume that the nitrous solenoid is working properly. It was a very good idea to test that out though g35irish.

So now I'm left with only one hypothesis and that is:

Teflon tape blocked nitrous jet and caused and overly rich condition causing the nitrous backfire.


I'm still somewhat far from spraying again. I want to get new plugs and install a nitrous filter as suggested by Jim's friend.

 

auto tranny, 4th gear is 1:1

 

crap. my fault. i was thinking one way and typed it another. it is 4th gear for the autos. good catch.

 

Have any of you guys ever heard of puddling? Fuel can build up in the intake tube and ignite once getting too hot. Its a common danger with nitrous in the wet shot form. Wouldnt that be the cause of all of this happening? At least that is what I was told for a long time now.

 

that would be a problem if you install the fogger too far down the intake tube where fuel and nitrous have time to heat up long before they gets into the engine. it would also be a problem if your spraying at too low of an rpm where there isnt enough vacum to suck in all the fuel and nitrous causing puddling. puddling could be easily avoided with a safe install.

 

What he said

Thanks for the input though. I'm open to any suggestions.

 

While "puddling" is a concern, the auto ignition temperature of gasoline (at atmospheric pressure) is 495 degrees F, so that rules out auto ignition in the intake ducting. Activating the nitrous system while only at WOT will reduce the problem with puddling.