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So...my intake BLEW UP today...

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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 03:10 PM
  #61  
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Originally posted by mjedens
I do not have a MSD ignition system. Off the subject a little, I do have an e-Manage where I retard the timing though.
You don't think I need to retard my timing for something as small as a 75 shot though right.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 11:32 AM
  #62  
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i was talking to a few "seasoned" ford drag racers earlier today. one of them said backfires are usually caused by a very RICH condition and asked me if i had purged before engaging the system or if my bottle was empty. my bottle was full, but i had completely forgot to purge. (cyberz350, i remember you mentioning that your bottle was empty when you blew your intake)

he also said that purging before you spray becomes more important for safety (rather then performance) with higher end shots ie. 75+ shot

it would make sense since my car was warm already and i had nitrous in the lines for a good hour before actually using it. more then enough time for air to build up in the line.

once the system was engaged, too much gas and nowhere near the right amount of nitrous....very rich condition....and pop went the intake. puddling might of added to the problem because the gas would not have properly vaporized due to not enough nitrous present.

hopefully this wont happen again, but either way i still have one more problem to deal with. my tranny is slipping. sad thing is, its an auto tranny. weird isnt it? heh. i gotta get a hold of edge racing and see what they can add to this whole thing.
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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 11:53 AM
  #63  
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Originally posted by MySunset350Z
i was talking to a few "seasoned" ford drag racers earlier today. one of them said backfires are usually caused by a very RICH condition and asked me if i had purged before engaging the system or if my bottle was empty. my bottle was full, but i had completely forgot to purge. (cyberz350, i remember you mentioning that your bottle was empty when you blew your intake)

he also said that purging before you spray becomes more important for safety (rather then performance) with higher end shots ie. 75+ shot

once the system was engaged, too much gas and nowhere near the right amount of nitrous....very rich condition....and pop went the intake. puddling might of added to the problem because the gas would not have properly vaporized due to not enough nitrous present.

good info to know, thanks for sharing
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 10:36 PM
  #64  
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yo bro how can u tell if ur tranny is slipping? like i know how to tell if a clutch is slipping is it the same thing? cuz i too have an auto and have noticed that recently its getting really "rough" in terms of shifting and what not. I drive the car really hard however and I think maybe with a diff fluid change and tranny service I may be good to go. So how can you tell ur auto is slipping?


Originally posted by MySunset350Z
i was talking to a few "seasoned" ford drag racers earlier today. one of them said backfires are usually caused by a very RICH condition and asked me if i had purged before engaging the system or if my bottle was empty. my bottle was full, but i had completely forgot to purge. (cyberz350, i remember you mentioning that your bottle was empty when you blew your intake)

he also said that purging before you spray becomes more important for safety (rather then performance) with higher end shots ie. 75+ shot

it would make sense since my car was warm already and i had nitrous in the lines for a good hour before actually using it. more then enough time for air to build up in the line.

once the system was engaged, too much gas and nowhere near the right amount of nitrous....very rich condition....and pop went the intake. puddling might of added to the problem because the gas would not have properly vaporized due to not enough nitrous present.

hopefully this wont happen again, but either way i still have one more problem to deal with. my tranny is slipping. sad thing is, its an auto tranny. weird isnt it? heh. i gotta get a hold of edge racing and see what they can add to this whole thing.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 09:09 AM
  #65  
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what i mean by slipping is it doesnt go into gear right away when i put in in revers or drive. all other shifting is fine, its just that on a warm start when i try to go from park to drive i hear a clunk for a second and then the car engages in gear.

let me put it this way. i have the car in N and let off the break. i shift it to drive and the car then makes a clunk sound doesnt start to roll for a good 1-2 seonds which is way longer then it shoud take. thats what i mean by slipping. delayed gear engaging.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 07:32 AM
  #66  
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Originally posted by fiveohpatrol
I was referred to this thread by JimRHIT

You should NEVER use teflon tape on any fittings in a nitrous system, period. Use teflon sealing paste only, and let it dry.

I'd recommend removing all of your fittings and lines and checking them all. Also, hopefully you were supplied a nitrous inline "filter" with the kit, if so, take that off and check it for clogging. If you don't have one, get one and install it on the bottle side of the N20 solenoid.

One more thing, you might want to check for any loose wiring that could have caused your nitrous noid to temporarily stop working. Just another idea.

And people, please stop calling it NOS!
I applaud his attempt at this project. He obviously spent a lot of time documenting the work. I do not mean to be critical, but a lot of stuff went wrong. I mean fundamentally wrong. I do not know how completely he described his work, and I may have missed a point or two as I read through this thread. If I'm off base, please tell me...

The gentleman is asking a lot of questions now that should have been asked *and answered* before the project was started. The nature of some of his questions seem to indicate serious gaps in knowledge that would seriously hamper his installation.

The project was not fully completed before the system was activated. One should not put nitrous oxide in the bottle until every component of the N2O system is in place, including *all* safety equipment: a window switch, good quality gauges, a bottle blow-off valve & down-tube, to name a few.

He installed the bottle incorrectly. He used teflon tape (NO-NO!). Surely these topics were highlighted in the installation guide.

I can't tell for sure, but he may have powered his system from the battery, which will power the system even when the ignition is off. The system should be wired so when the ignition is off, no power goes to any component on the N2O system.

He was plagued by leaks at the connections. He had a serious back-fire incident. He re-installed his MAF backwards. Gosh, who knows what else was not done properly that may contribute to another system failure, damage to property within a generous ballistic arc around the engine bay, or even personal injury?

He needs to back-up, and do more research before he tries to use the system again. He may have to redo the installation to bring it up to par. He may have damaged parts that need to be tested and replaced. He has to add all the safety parts to complete the installation. What a mess...

Sorry about all this. I wish him well. I hope he gets this up and running safely, and soon. Take care all.
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