no worries man. i think we are saying the same thing here...better off doing this one yourself...cheaper and probably better workmanship.

i always have bad luck when taking my car in for service at the dealer...seems like they are always screwing things up.

 

What a way to spend a Friday night.

After work, on my way home, my window would not go back up. I came home, did a search and found this thread. Thanks to whoever wrote the procedure to correct this problem by the way.

Took apart the door and took out the motor, which was really clean. I am guessing that the motor was already replaced once (I bought the car used) because I found a stripped screw that holds the motor to the inside panel. Thankfully, I didn't have to do much of a clean up in the motor.

However, I was examining the metal rails that the window is attached to, and found a tiny piece of plastic between the front clamps that holds the window to the metal rail. I am hoping that it is that little plastic piece that was getting jammed and not the motor.

I want to give a shout out to my girlfriend who helped me for 2+ hours on a Friday night to get this corrected.

I will keep my fingers crossed hoping that it is not the motor. It should be much quicker next time if it happens again.

IMPORTANT! Make sure to check that the front corner of the window, towards the front of the car, is secure in the plastic/thick felt looking rail. You can check this by looking through the crack from the top. The rail leads up to the side mirror/tweater.

 

lol, I have no idea that this is a common problem. I just have mine fix today, takes them about half a day. The total is $415, but I got the extended warranty so I only need to pay a $100

 

Has anyone with a 2007-2008 had window motor problems yet? I'm curious if there's a new design that might retrofit. http://www.courtesyparts.com/ doesn't list a part number for the 2007-2008 window motors.

 

I have problems with my driver and passenger side window. The driver side will go back down on its own when using the auto-up. Neither of the windows drop the proper amount when the door open.

The master tech that discussed the issue with me at TriState Nissan said that the driver's side is trying to come up too far and that the motor is not properly backing off when the door opens. He showed me this by pushing down on the window with the door open, it still had motor tension on it because the window was springy whereas on the passenger side (with the door open) the window could be pushed down (the distance it should be dropping under gravity) and it would stay there.

His statement for the driver's side was that the top setpoint is too high, so the reason the window does not drop and why it comes back down with auto-up are connected.

As far as the passenger side goes he said that there could be something wrong with the motor/mechanisim which does not let it drop the proper amount but if he tore into it and there was nothing wrong that I would have to pay the labor which I do not have the money for at the moment. I will take the doors apart when the weather gets warmer and if they are bad, I will have the service done because the tech said it will then be a warranty claim.

I did find out unfortunately that there is a 12 month "adjustment" period that you have to get stuff like this tweaked. Also thinks like a crooked badge, crooked panels, etc all fall under this time limit. So when you buy your new car, go over it with a fine-toothed comb and nit-pick everything you think is wrong because it is your problem 12 months after DOP.

 

Some input on my issue would be appreciated... Read the thread and others,
but I have some unique problems. I have an 03 350z gt... both door locks cannot
be operated via switch in the cabin. The passenger window cannot be raised
or lowered from either seat too. I have purchased a replacement window motor
for the passenger side as this seems to fix the issues I describe...

Any thoughts on this?

 

Did you or the tech try the regulator reset procedure?

 

please elaborate on this reset procedure... In our manual?

 

^^Not in the owner's manual, but here you go.

Roll window all the way up. Remove the sticker (on silver door plate) where motor is sitting. Hold reset button down and roll window all the way down (do not use auto mode). Roll window up and put door finisher back on. Done.

 

Interesting. I assume this needs to be done if one installs a new motor?

Any thoughts on the problem I mention above...?

 

Replacing the passenger side window motor will likely fix your problem. You will need to do the reset procedure after putting in the new motor.

 

thanks, will post results. fingers crossed.

 

Does anyone know if the G35 window motor is the same? I saw a few people ask if the G35 has the same problem but not sure if it has the same motor...if it DOES have a different motor, does anyone think swapping the old motor for a G35 window motor might alleviate the seemingly annual problem?

 

I figured out my window AUTO roll down problem. First you should try cleaning it with electric motor cleaner as in the DIY thread.

I did that and it did nothing.. I bought a new motor, still nothing..

Then I had an epiphany and looked at the window switch Male prongs for the connector... I discovered 1 was bent and not going into the female side I then took some needle nose plyers to straighten the prong and cleaned the window switch prongs with Electric motor cleaner, just a slight spray and plugged it..... BAM!! Its perfect!! It lowers again when u open the door, and doesnt automatically fall when u close the door....

Im going to post this in all the window threads to people can check there connectors too.. It could be happening a lot... No need to pay a dealer 500 for bs....

Side note: I noticed where it did bend the prong that female hole on the connector is smaller than all the others which could deflect the prong easily if not careful.... Leading to our cars being ****ed up by dealers techs etc. Then we discover the problem later.

 

The AutoZone motor has a lifetime warranty, & it's only $160, plus the old motor--which they rebuild, obviously. Labor runs around $20-$40.

 

I bought one from Oreilly because Autozone didnt have any.... So I purchased the Motor 150 dollars for nothing.. At least i didnt pay a dealer 500+ though...

 

Sowy.

 

interesting.....people say the brushes CAN'T be replaced....how are they selling refurbished units with new brushes in them then?

I'm going to grab some small electric motor brushes and put them in there and see if that works. I'll bet money it will. I've rebuild small motors like this before. Hobbyshops carry tiny brushes for all sorts of motors.

 

^ Yea, that would be really interesting to see! I'm assuming that it's possible as well, seeing that's pretty much all Autozone does and sell them anyway. If we can just replace the brushes ourselves in our motors, it would end up saving us all way way more money.

And like others have mentioned, does anybody know if the later years of the Z (07-08) or the G35 have different motors that we might be able to swap in? Or better yet, I know this is too early right now probably, but maybe the 370Z's window motor isn't flawed like ours, and might fit our 350Z's? Who knows, but I'd really like it if we can just find a more stable solution than replacing our motors and extending the same ol' timebomb.

 

i have new brushes. Today i might get to rebuilding it depending on how busy my afternoon is.

I know for sure i'll have it apart on monday if i run out of time today.