Anyone use Castrol GTX 5w-30?
09-19-2006, 04:43 PM
#1
Anyone use Castrol GTX 5w-30?
I got a good deal on 6qts of this stuff, $9.60 plus $3.60 back from a rebate so...it cost me $6 bucks total for 6qts (old guy at Kragen hooked it up), anyways, have you guys used this oil before? Is it good or should I go and exchange it? BTW, this is NON-synthetic...
09-19-2006, 04:58 PM
#2
It's totally fine. If you don't believe me ask on bobistheoilguy forums... check the packaging and make sure it is API GF-4 / SM rated
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=015549#000000
The real question is what will your oil change interval be?
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=015549#000000
The real question is what will your oil change interval be?
09-19-2006, 05:16 PM
#3
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Yep, most dino oils are tons better than people make them out to be. Im using GTX in my truck right now. What kind of driving do you do? Like commute/style wise?
09-20-2006, 05:51 AM
#6
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I use the GTX in both my truck/daily driver and my GF's Camery... Oil is oil IMO, unless your comparing conventional with synthetic. That's a different story.
09-20-2006, 07:47 AM
#7
Originally Posted by vo7848
I use the GTX in both my truck/daily driver and my GF's Camery... Oil is oil IMO, unless your comparing conventional with synthetic. That's a different story.
If you look around "bobistheoilguy" forums, you'll see that there are different schools of thought about which additive packages are the best for different applications.
Also people there have sent in virgin, unused oil for analysis to pinpoint which elements have been added, like molybdenum, phosphorus, etc. This shows you evidence of the additive package.
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09-22-2006, 09:02 PM
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Catrol GTX is fine motor oil. Any major brand Penzoil, Mobil, Chevron, Quaker State, Kendall, etc. is fine.
A master mechanic told me once that any motor oil is fine. Even cheap super tech (Wal-Mart) or coastal. It's required that motor oil is made to an industry standard. Motor Oil is Motor Oil.
Get the cheapest major brand oil you can fine and enjoy the savings!
A master mechanic told me once that any motor oil is fine. Even cheap super tech (Wal-Mart) or coastal. It's required that motor oil is made to an industry standard. Motor Oil is Motor Oil.
Get the cheapest major brand oil you can fine and enjoy the savings!
09-22-2006, 10:26 PM
#11
I probably don't have time to change my oil until after I come back from Santa Barbara (Pasadena to Santa Barbara). I"m at 6200 miles right now and I did my last oil change at 3k...is this bad or should I find time to change it before I go?
09-23-2006, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by boma
So you put 3,200 on your motor oil so far? You are fine =). You could probably go another 1-2K easy.
09-24-2006, 12:46 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Spoiled Z
I suggest changing it now. I wouldn't want to run over 3k with regular oil.
If your conditions are good, then you can go 5k easily...
09-24-2006, 04:53 PM
#15
I changed the oil about a half hour before my trip up to Santa Barbara. Everything ran pretty good, but I remember after my last oil change, my car felt somewhat faster, but this time...nope, same thing. I guess it's all in my head. Has anyone else felt that way (a faster car) after changing their oil ?
09-25-2006, 01:36 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
vo- the main difference between dino oils is the "additive package" that the company puts in it. They do this to (a) help clean out the engine, (b) provide increased lubricity ... etc.
If you look around "bobistheoilguy" forums, you'll see that there are different schools of thought about which additive packages are the best for different applications.
Also people there have sent in virgin, unused oil for analysis to pinpoint which elements have been added, like molybdenum, phosphorus, etc. This shows you evidence of the additive package.
If you look around "bobistheoilguy" forums, you'll see that there are different schools of thought about which additive packages are the best for different applications.
Also people there have sent in virgin, unused oil for analysis to pinpoint which elements have been added, like molybdenum, phosphorus, etc. This shows you evidence of the additive package.
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