JAM3Z

iTrader: (17)

bump. Anyone?!

2000atlanticgt

iTrader: (5)

What DTC do you have? Have you tried looking in the FSM for the DTC description and followed the trouble shooting procedures?

sasco111

im having the same code p2138 app sensor.....anybody who has rectified this issue?

edwin2780

iTrader: (1)

I had the same issue, its your throttle position sensor, it will cost about 160$-180$. Remember you cant buy the sensor alone because it comes its the pedal and and everything already . Its a easy fix Good LUCK

Cjaskoski

I had the p2122 and p2127 on my 350z drivetrain and I replaced the APP sensor. At first it did not work and I saw a lot of people saying you had to replaced the entire pedal assembly which seemed dumb to me. So I looked at the switch and found out if you install it with the piece that slides in the top of the pedal resting closed it won't work. You have to install it in such a way that it is preloaded and the sensor is just slightly open. Otherwise it doesn't allow the .9v through it and won't work. Also there is also a lot of crappy sensors for sale aftermarket wise so make sure you buy an OEM one, it is worth the extra $10 bucks.

Carl Legaspi

I tried to replace my gas pedal sensor not brand new tho. And sometimes it start and run good then after a while cel went back again. Do I really need to buy the whole gas pedal?

Is it ok if i buy the whole gas pedal sensor at autozone??

Cjaskoski

I would try the APP sensor first, the APP sensor is like $30 vs the petal assembly is over $100. But you'll want to spend the extra $10 bucks on an OEM like APP as the cheap ones don't fit well in the plug and are prone to failure. The Accelerator position sensor is basically just an electrical switch so when you install it in the pedal assembly you'll have to make sure it slightly open or you will still get the codes/issues. If you still have an issue I would try the Idle relearn procedures specified in the video below. If you do these procedures and you cant get the idle to lower to 700-800 rpm just take the pedal assembly off the firewall and loosen the two screws that hold the sensor and move it slightly until you have the desired idle rpm. If all else fails order a new throttle body and repeat the idle relearn. Hope this helps.

King ZeeLion

I have tried everything possible but still not working

Marshall Murphy

Same here new throttle body new sensor new computer new battery took it too dealership thst couldn't figure it out the plug going to pedal should b gettibg 5v it's only getting 2.5v

Aiiz33

hey bro did u ever get this issue fixed I replaced the wiring harness ecu new pedal with sensor still nothing.

fls350z

I've been chasing this goblin for half a year. Let me preface this by saying my car is swapped, LS3, so it isn't related to the throttle body as far as I can tell. It worked fine for the longest time, then there was a really really cold night back in December and thats when the problems started. The next morning, car started up fine but zero throttle response. Learned about the reset procedure and thought I had fixed it, then it got cold again. It got the point where it was happening pretty much every cold morning. I ended up purchasing a whole new OEM pedal assembly... Installed it, did reset, and it worked great for a number of drives (not more than several, probably), until...it cut out while I was driving. Did what I knew to do and turned it off, did a reset, got home. The new pedal assembly kept giving me the cutout problem only this time while I was driving, and was usually only when I'd start giving it some decent acceleration. I said **** it and did some experimenting and reinstalled the old pedal, the one that would never cut out on me while driving but would rather just not give me anything from the get-go until it got warm (pure chance/luck/coincidence?) and I restarted...the old pedal was now doing the same thing the new pedal did, cut out while driving. This is where I'm at now.

My next steps are to clean the contacts on the female-end/harness-end end of the plug (compared to the sensor itself) and see what I get. I'm thinking I have a short or some **** in the circuit that isn't enabling me to get reliable voltage. I have a multimeter but can't test it unless I decide to drive around a bunch and take my readings when it decides to die. Whatever it is, I'll do my best to remember to update you guys here. Also, HPT shows a locked TPS% when the thing dies, normally the % bounced around 21-24% at idle or higher when it's pressed...when it's dead it shows a constant ~20%. As for whether or not it's actually reading it or if that's just the last signal, idk, I'll find out.

Edit 1: I've read about another guy on another forum say he replaced the IPDM (expensive af) and the problem was fixed...hoping to not have to do that.
Edit 2: Some relevant links I'll probably end up using... link1 link2

Alexag562

Did u figure out the issue, iv been struggling with this for a damn month. What I found is that the wires in the connector of the app sensor is giving me 5 volts in one and the other one is giving me 1 volt. We're should I go from there.

vqbadfirstcar

Having same issue, did you figure this out?

fls350z

Not sure if this will solve it for you, but my issue was solved by adjusting the base voltage the sensor output by changing the default position of the sensor. I unscrewed the adjustment screw and then moved the sensor a tiny bit until output was above .42v or something I don't remember