How-To Repair Stuck / Broken Window Motor ...
07-23-2008, 11:34 AM
#81
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Originally Posted by snap
Thanks for the directions. Cleaned the motors but it didnt solve the problem 100%. So I changed the motors myself. Saved a bunch of $$$ doing it myself. The pics were very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to take pics and post.
07-26-2008, 02:40 PM
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OK I just moved to AZ from LI NY where my friends father ran the service shop at Nissan so i never had any problems with my car and never paid much to get stuff done. I go to the service counter here by my new house to see what they thought was wrong with my car window and he said i need a new motor and that cost $299 and then another $200 for labor to fix it. Before i said ok i said i need to check out my350z.com and here it is the fix i needed. Im kind of crazy when i do things so I'm going to wait until i have a full day to fix this, ill let you know how it goes. The problem I'm having is that my window will go up and down but if i let it go down all the way it gets stuck. the only way to fix it is to hit the door panel while holding the switch in the up position. does anyone think i should just buy the motor from auto zone or some place like that and put it in?
07-28-2008, 09:36 AM
#83
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Originally Posted by autuorijr
OK I just moved to AZ from LI NY where my friends father ran the service shop at Nissan so i never had any problems with my car and never paid much to get stuff done. I go to the service counter here by my new house to see what they thought was wrong with my car window and he said i need a new motor and that cost $299 and then another $200 for labor to fix it. Before i said ok i said i need to check out my350z.com and here it is the fix i needed. Im kind of crazy when i do things so I'm going to wait until i have a full day to fix this, ill let you know how it goes. The problem I'm having is that my window will go up and down but if i let it go down all the way it gets stuck. the only way to fix it is to hit the door panel while holding the switch in the up position. does anyone think i should just buy the motor from auto zone or some place like that and put it in?
08-01-2008, 06:58 AM
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WOW, u guys are great! but i still need help please.... im new here, and read a few posts about ppl with the same problem....
The window reset procedure.
I serviced my drivers motor, but now when i do the procedure, and i open the door, the window does work properly (drop 3/4") or so but when i close the door, it goes up then all the way down! WTF?
Im wondering if it makes a difference, but mine is Right Hand Drive 2003 from Japan.
The window reset procedure.
I serviced my drivers motor, but now when i do the procedure, and i open the door, the window does work properly (drop 3/4") or so but when i close the door, it goes up then all the way down! WTF?
Im wondering if it makes a difference, but mine is Right Hand Drive 2003 from Japan.
08-01-2008, 07:44 AM
#86
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Originally Posted by Sora1421
It seems that this starts to happen around 60-70k miles right?
08-01-2008, 07:45 AM
#87
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Update...
Since the orginal cleaning, my window got stuck on Wednesday night. I had to perform the "bang on the side of the door" trick to get it to raise. I guess it was time for me to change the motor.... 
08-01-2008, 07:46 AM
#88
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Originally Posted by topsecrettnt
WOW, u guys are great! but i still need help please.... im new here, and read a few posts about ppl with the same problem....
The window reset procedure.
I serviced my drivers motor, but now when i do the procedure, and i open the door, the window does work properly (drop 3/4") or so but when i close the door, it goes up then all the way down! WTF?
Im wondering if it makes a difference, but mine is Right Hand Drive 2003 from Japan.
The window reset procedure.
I serviced my drivers motor, but now when i do the procedure, and i open the door, the window does work properly (drop 3/4") or so but when i close the door, it goes up then all the way down! WTF?
Im wondering if it makes a difference, but mine is Right Hand Drive 2003 from Japan.
08-01-2008, 08:57 AM
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i must be doing something wrong.... cause i jooined this forum specifically to see the pics, and tried them.... im going to do it now, again.. she's sitting outside and todays a holiday here... eeemancipation day! free your... mind!
08-01-2008, 09:24 AM
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nope.. same thing. up, then all the way down the next time i close the door... does it make a diff if the key is in ACC or ON? Do i have to take the key off and out to 'exit' programming mode before operating the door again?
08-10-2008, 05:52 PM
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I tried cleaning the motor (on a g35) without disconnecting it from the cable spindle.. When I tried reinstalling the brush assy back on the cover wouldn't fit..
I missed the part about not turning it while attached to the spindle because the g35driver DIY didn't mention it.. so I kept trying to screw the brush assy while not realizing I was rolling the window up/down..
I'm still not able to get the cover on flush and gave up for the day..
1) Can my screwup be fixed with the window reset procedure? Or did I really screw up the calibration by manually cranking the motor?
2) Would removing the motor assy from the spindle help me get the cover back on? I tried rotating it every which way with no luck.. There is always a 2-3mm gap on the side w/ 2 screws..
I hope I didn't cost myself $500..
I missed the part about not turning it while attached to the spindle because the g35driver DIY didn't mention it.. so I kept trying to screw the brush assy while not realizing I was rolling the window up/down..
I'm still not able to get the cover on flush and gave up for the day..
1) Can my screwup be fixed with the window reset procedure? Or did I really screw up the calibration by manually cranking the motor?
2) Would removing the motor assy from the spindle help me get the cover back on? I tried rotating it every which way with no luck.. There is always a 2-3mm gap on the side w/ 2 screws..
I hope I didn't cost myself $500..
08-11-2008, 08:19 AM
#92
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Originally Posted by markcel
1) Can my screwup be fixed with the window reset procedure? Or did I really screw up the calibration by manually cranking the motor?
2) Would removing the motor assy from the spindle help me get the cover back on?
2) Would removing the motor assy from the spindle help me get the cover back on?
2) Yes
08-13-2008, 09:46 AM
#93
Mine took a crap in 2003. Luckily the dealer replaced both under warranty. Haven't had any problems with them since. Newer motors seem better. Time will tell.
Probably need a RESET on the driver's side soon. Normal wear and tear, I guess. Great post, Man!!!
Probably need a RESET on the driver's side soon. Normal wear and tear, I guess. Great post, Man!!!
08-13-2008, 10:26 AM
#94
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Originally Posted by ADMAN
Mine took a crap in 2003. Luckily the dealer replaced both under warranty. Haven't had any problems with them since. Newer motors seem better. Time will tell.
Probably need a RESET on the driver's side soon. Normal wear and tear, I guess. Great post, Man!!!
Probably need a RESET on the driver's side soon. Normal wear and tear, I guess. Great post, Man!!!
08-18-2008, 07:25 AM
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I tried this this weekend, went from able to be banged into working (heh), to totally inoperable.
Does anyone else have a clicking sound coming from the switch when the window wont work?
Does anyone else have a clicking sound coming from the switch when the window wont work?
08-18-2008, 07:30 AM
#97
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Originally Posted by Brrcats
I tried this this weekend, went from able to be banged into working (heh), to totally inoperable.
Does anyone else have a clicking sound coming from the switch when the window wont work?
Does anyone else have a clicking sound coming from the switch when the window wont work?
You might have to just replace the motor entirely.
08-18-2008, 07:41 AM
#98
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This weekend I replaced the passenger side motor with a refurbished one from Advanced Auto Parts. The window was already stuck in the down position and wouldn't come up with the "banging" technique, so I removed the cosmetic panel then banged directly on the interior metal panel. It worked. The window rolled up and I began the dissasemble process. Replaced the motor. No reset procedure was necessary this time.
I finally got around to replacing 4 stripped out anchor nut holes this time. The last time I removed the metal panel I noticed 4 screws were stripped badly. This was from the original time the Nissan techs serviced my door. Yet another reason to not trust the dealership. It's actually the anchor nut that is stripped. When you try and insert a new screw, it gets stripped also.
I've never used a tap & die set, so I went to Home Depot, talked to some people there and decided to buy the kit. I also bought a new pack of machine bolts to use. Their size is: 1/4 x 3/4 #20. This means they have a 1/4 diameter, are 3/4 inch long, and have 20 treads per inch. The tap I will be using to tread new holes in the door panel will match these screws. I was going to buy bolts from Nissan, but they wanted $2.30 per bolt. Yeah right!
I'm going to tap new holes tonight and will post pics tomorrow on the 1st page.
The new holes I need to tap are circled in blue.
I finally got around to replacing 4 stripped out anchor nut holes this time. The last time I removed the metal panel I noticed 4 screws were stripped badly. This was from the original time the Nissan techs serviced my door. Yet another reason to not trust the dealership. It's actually the anchor nut that is stripped. When you try and insert a new screw, it gets stripped also.
I've never used a tap & die set, so I went to Home Depot, talked to some people there and decided to buy the kit. I also bought a new pack of machine bolts to use. Their size is: 1/4 x 3/4 #20. This means they have a 1/4 diameter, are 3/4 inch long, and have 20 treads per inch. The tap I will be using to tread new holes in the door panel will match these screws. I was going to buy bolts from Nissan, but they wanted $2.30 per bolt. Yeah right!
I'm going to tap new holes tonight and will post pics tomorrow on the 1st page.
The new holes I need to tap are circled in blue.
Last edited by VO...; 08-18-2008 at 07:43 AM.
08-18-2008, 06:01 PM
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I replaced my passenger window motor with a new one from autozone last september. The motor already failed less than a year. I only drive the car in the summer so its not like it was being used all the time.
When I removed the motor today I took it apart and who ever rebuilt the motor packed so much grease in the gear that it worked its way to the windings. I will be taking apart the new replacement motor and removing most of the grease this time. Theres got to be away to seperate the grease from the armature. This is a very poor design I have never had to replace a window motor on any vehicle. I do not want to do this every year.
When I removed the motor today I took it apart and who ever rebuilt the motor packed so much grease in the gear that it worked its way to the windings. I will be taking apart the new replacement motor and removing most of the grease this time. Theres got to be away to seperate the grease from the armature. This is a very poor design I have never had to replace a window motor on any vehicle. I do not want to do this every year.
08-19-2008, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
It clicks when the motor is not operating. The clicking sound is the relay engaging.
You might have to just replace the motor entirely.
You might have to just replace the motor entirely.
I'm taking the Z into a trusted dealer sometime this week to get the axle clicking TSB done, I just want to know so I can compare to what the will charge me for a new one.
I mean if its like this
i need a new motor and that cost $299 and then another $200 for labor to fix it