Check my 1st post of this thread again. I posted links for both driver's side and passenger's side motors for 2 different stores. I picked up the one from Advanced Auto Parts this week.

Last night I finished up the job by tapping 4 new holes and replacing the 4 OEM stripped bolts. Another botched up job the Nissan techs did to my car awhile back. Sorry ba$tids.

Don't rag on meh Keystone Light either...

 

^^word, the store you posted has them for cheap, but I've never heard of that store. Autozone has them for like 170 + 40 buck core charge, so thats almost as high as what nissan wants.

 

im in the caribbean, so i have to order a new RIGHT side assenbly from Nissan directly in MIAMI, does anybody have a part number please?

 

Great DIY, thanks for the post. It was an easy fix and the only thing I needed to buy was that electrical spray stuff which was only a couple bucks at autozone.

PS driver side is easier, less screws for the panelling.

 

I bought a driver's side motor for my G35 coupe at Autozone. It was $133.99 + 40.00 core charge + sales tax..

Also, I was able to correct my screwup I posted about earlier by resetting the window motor..

 

I got my new replacement motor from autozone. I opened up the motor and it already needs cleaning. What do they actually rebuild on these things? It alreay looks bad. The last autozone replacement did not last too long maybe its better to buy a new one from Nissan?

 

Yup, they just rebuild them. I opened mine replacement also. It was clean, but looked like $hit on the inside. It looks like they just replace the carbon brushes. From the look of it though, the brushes don't even look new. They do have less wear n' tear than my OEM brushes do though. This is probably why they fail after a year or so....

 

great write-up!!!

 

 

My drivers side window will not roll back all the way up when completely down. After a while it manages to get back up and if you press it once to go up it reaches the top then shoots back down halfway. Are these similar problems you encountered?

 

You'll need to perform the window regulator reset procedure outlined at the end of VO's DIY.

This happened to me last night after the install of my new motor

 

So last night I installed the new motor and it worked beautifully, however I didnt use the tape to hold the window up since last time I did that it left one hell of a adhesive residue on the glass that was a pain to get off.

This time I had a friend hold the window while I unscrewed the three bolts that held the window to the window track. It was very easy, took maybe two minutes to undo the bolts and remove the window. Plus theres enough space that you really dont have to worry too much about scratching your tint if you have it (I do).

Using this method I didnt have to remove the window track from the metal panel at all and removed the whole mechanism as one. I prefer this method since when I did VO's method for the cleaning, it was a little difficult to get the bottom window track bolts back into the holes on the metal panel.

So take it for what you will. just an alternative method.

 

great write up...

I tried this but still nothing happened.

There were 2 things I saw that I had questions on.

1st....it says don't wind or be careful how you put the windings back in the motor. If I put it back wrong will that cause it not to work? Does it have to be in the exact position (not rotated 1 degree) to continue to work?

2nd. on the 2 brushes that have springs on them. on mine, only one of them was springing...the other one was stuck in. Is that a sign the motor is just shot?

I did order a new motor so I am waiting for that to come in. Hopefully that is it. great diy though, at least now I am an expert on taking the door panel off.

 

Thank you.

When I took my motor off the 2nd time around, I noticed you can turn the motor all you want once it's removed from the cable mechanism. I say this because my new motor was not aligned properly, so I had to pull the motor housing off and spin the internal motor to get it to align so I could slip it on the mechanism that controls the cables. So to answer your question, I don't think it's a big deal if you move the motor or cable portion a bit. I don't believe it'll effect anything. If it doesn't work properly, all you have to do is the reset procedure and it'll recalibrate everything for you.

The spring that's stuck inside is the reason your motor no longer works. The carbon portion is either worn all the way down, giving the appearance it's stuck or the spring is not working properly causing the carbon pieces to not stick out. You did the right thing by ordering a new motor in this case...

 

Vo Very Good DIY

 

 

I would like to say THANK YOU to VO for this great write up !!!
I have followed each step you showed, my man !

But my window still does not work, I think it's busted !!! I remember when putting the cap back to cover the spinning part, the magnetic seemed to stuck together, but I ignored it...lol...would that be a problem?
So I guess I have to order a new one then.

Some how after things put back together. Now I keep hearing some rattle from the door. Have not re-opened it back but can anyone guess what that is?

 

Great post I know it will help when it comes time to take that door apart. You sure did save a lot of headaches.

 

I don't want to take all the time to clean mine then have it break again so I'd rather get a new one but if the ones from AutoZone are only going to last a yr or so then whats the point? Is there anywhere to get one that won't break?? TIA

 

Thanks for the compliment guy.

As far as the magnetic cover goes. It does get attracted to the motor's inner spinning piece, but will not pull it out if the spinning part is seated properly. Futhermore, the magnetic cover will not mate properly if the spinning pieces is not not seated correctly.

As far as the rattling noise you're hearing, I can't say that I know what the problem is.

A new motor should solve your problems. I'm starting to see that this is the best method to take now...