Is it absolutely necessary to resurface your rotors when changing the front brake pads? I have less than 3,000 miles on the car. Just need to fix the brake dust problem. Thanks.

 

Actually it's absolutely UN-necessary unless your rotors are damaged. Getting them turned reduces the overall mass and heat dissipating ability of the rotor making them easier to warp. Unless your 3k miles are hard track driven miles you should have no problem sticking some new pads on and leaving the rotors alone.

 

I have just over 5500 miles on my Z and I have wanted to do the same thing ever since I drove the first 100 hundred miles in it.

The amount of brake dust with the factory pads is ridiculous.

I do a lot of around town driving so I use the brakes a lot and the wheels always look bad.

I have looked and not found any after market pads. I would like to replace them with a nice Ceramic (low dust) pad but I have not been able find any.

Where did you find your replacment pads?

 

Found them here...

http://www.splparts.com/Nissan/Brake/Pad.htm

 

slightly off topic, but how do you know when it's time for a new set of pads? I know you can look to see how much is left, but I don't know what's acceptable.

I have just under 8000 miles on my car and definitely use (but don't abuse) my brakes.

 

Try Courtesy Nissan's web site (Dallas, TX)... http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z/index.html, last time I looked they had replacement pads for the front to reduce brake dust...I have the same problem too much brake dust.

 

If you take off the wheels, you can see a hole on top of the cylinder body (caliper) where you can measure the thickness of the pads. Per Service manual, Std thickness is 11.0 mm, repair limit thickness is 2.0 mm

 

Just FYI, Stillen has front AND rear pads for non-track applications (in case you care to match them).

I haven't installed mine yet, but they are supposed to be lower dust and better perf than OEM.

I also got a set of SS brake lines....

 

Anyone have a how to for installing front brake pads on the Z [touring model] . I have done this job on my jeep , is the 350Z any different. Any advice would be helpful .Thank you

 

I have the Hawk RPS pads.. ( I think that's what they are called)

It's very easy to replace them. Just remove the rims first, then unbolt and remove the bottom bolt of the caliper, and loose the top bolt. Flip the caliper to the top and remove the brake pads. Make sure you use the anti-squeal grease on the back of the new pads..

Make sure you open up the brake reservior then use c-clamp to push the caliper piston back in before you install the new pads...

re-tighten the bolts, put the rims back on, close the brake reservior, and that's it!

 

Ok thanks sounds easy enough

 

Replaced mine (track model) with Porterfield R4-S pads at 12,500 miles. I was getting ready for a track day. Spent the time to seat the pads per instructions from Porterfield and Zechenhausen (m350 member). The pads work well. Somewhere there was mention that there would be less dust, but dusting still occurs.

I wish that I had spent more time cleaning up the old dust from the calipers and vicinity. There is a slight squeal sometime when I'm just crawling along waiting in a line for a stoplight but no other problems. (This was described on an Australian thread recently). I attributed the squeal to lack of thorough cleaning. I had never heard of putting 'antisqueal grease' on the back of the pad surface.

One thing to remember is that after squeezing the pistons and replacing the pads, make certain to pump up the pedal before taking off. Mine went to the floor as I was backing out of my driveway...pumped up quickly though.

Its also a good time to bleed the lines while everything is up in the air and exposed.

 

Ok thanks for INFO

What do you think of these pads


EBC V4 Greenstuff Sport Formula Brake Pads: