Axle Clicking
08-05-2008, 01:47 PM
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Axle Clicking
Any of you know a thread link with information on this issue with the Z and what it takes to get it repaired? I searched and couldn't find what I was looking for.
08-05-2008, 02:45 PM
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its covered under the drivetrain warranty if you still have it, take it to the dealer. I guess take it to a dealer anyway, they need to tighten some bolts on the axle, at least thats what I read on here. The dealer told me they had to order some parts blah blah, but it was free so I know they werent just ripping me off.
08-05-2008, 11:27 PM
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Check the ball joint, thats probably what it is, and its called a Spindle, costs about $190 for mine, at a dealership in Texas (includes shipping)....and thats a discounted price. Mine does the clicking noise on my passenger side of the spindle so hopefully it'll get rid of that annoying clicking sound...i'll let you guys know when I have it done.
08-06-2008, 09:00 AM
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mines a 2003. I'm definitely out of Warranty I believe. Thanks for the helpful information however. I only get this noise at low RPMS. Like on take off from 1st and sometimes shifting into second casually.....
Anyone else experience the same?
Anyone else experience the same?
08-06-2008, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxlino
yup, I took it to the dealer and gotten taken care of, problem is it keeps coming back. Im gonna have to take it in again but have just been lazy.
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08-06-2008, 04:03 PM
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I brought mine in (2006) for rear axel clicking and referenced the TSB. When they called to say that it was ready, they said the TSB didn't cover 2006 (I knew the TSB was only 03-05 but thought it was the same so it would take care of it) Was also told it was not covered under the factory warrenty or my extended warrenty. I didn't put up a fight as they just replaced the engine for oil consumption with no hassle so I want to stay on good terms in case I need another engine. $100 wasn't worth the fight for me to have bad blood in the future.
On mine they just retorqued the rear hubs and the clicking went away. They didn't even take them apart and regrease them.
On mine they just retorqued the rear hubs and the clicking went away. They didn't even take them apart and regrease them.
08-06-2008, 04:46 PM
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^ looks like that link doesn't work. here's one from this site: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...g-problem.html
SERVICE BULLETIN NTB04-065
affects all 2003 models and 2004 built before 2-14-04
description part #
Bearing assy, rear 43210-AL505
Axel outer joint assy 39211-73L00
Repair kit, dust boot outer 39241-73L28
SERVICE BULLETIN NTB04-065
affects all 2003 models and 2004 built before 2-14-04
description part #
Bearing assy, rear 43210-AL505
Axel outer joint assy 39211-73L00
Repair kit, dust boot outer 39241-73L28
08-06-2008, 05:07 PM
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Out Of Warranty???
Just do it yourself...I did. If you can change a flat you can do this.
No need to remove the whole axle. Just remove wheel, cotter pin, and big nut from axle. Push the axle towards the center of the car as far as you can. Rub some grease onto the axle where it mates up with the back of the hub and put it back together. Be sure to torque the axle nut to 177lbs. and done. Have a beer and forget about what used to click.
No need to remove the whole axle. Just remove wheel, cotter pin, and big nut from axle. Push the axle towards the center of the car as far as you can. Rub some grease onto the axle where it mates up with the back of the hub and put it back together. Be sure to torque the axle nut to 177lbs. and done. Have a beer and forget about what used to click.
08-20-2008, 05:23 PM
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tywinter: how long would you say it takes to do the two rear axles with hand tools having never pulled those nuts before? Did you replace the cotter pins, or re-use them?
08-21-2008, 07:18 AM
#15
Originally Posted by tywinter
Just do it yourself...I did. If you can change a flat you can do this.
No need to remove the whole axle. Just remove wheel, cotter pin, and big nut from axle. Push the axle towards the center of the car as far as you can. Rub some grease onto the axle where it mates up with the back of the hub and put it back together. Be sure to torque the axle nut to 177lbs. and done. Have a beer and forget about what used to click.
No need to remove the whole axle. Just remove wheel, cotter pin, and big nut from axle. Push the axle towards the center of the car as far as you can. Rub some grease onto the axle where it mates up with the back of the hub and put it back together. Be sure to torque the axle nut to 177lbs. and done. Have a beer and forget about what used to click.
Are you sure about that torque??? Is that even possible? or should it be 77ft/lbs?
08-21-2008, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Are you sure about that torque??? Is that even possible? or should it be 77ft/lbs?
The TSB mentions to grease the axle where it contacts the hub, but it's generally not necessary. Back the nut off, torque it down and you shouldn't hear the axle click anymore.
04-18-2009, 03:40 PM
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Just do it yourself...I did. If you can change a flat you can do this.
No need to remove the whole axle. Just remove wheel, cotter pin, and big nut from axle. Push the axle towards the center of the car as far as you can. Rub some grease onto the axle where it mates up with the back of the hub and put it back together. Be sure to torque the axle nut to 177lbs. and done. Have a beer and forget about what used to click.
No need to remove the whole axle. Just remove wheel, cotter pin, and big nut from axle. Push the axle towards the center of the car as far as you can. Rub some grease onto the axle where it mates up with the back of the hub and put it back together. Be sure to torque the axle nut to 177lbs. and done. Have a beer and forget about what used to click.
If anybody reading this wants to know, the axle nut is 32mm. You can loan the socket for free at your local Autozone, you just have to leave a $20 deposit that you get back when you return it.
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