Pumpkin Leaking.....What Could Cause this?
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Was under the car and noticed some burnt fluid leaking from top of pumpkin. Didnt smell like nothing and wasn't moist or oily. Never even drive the car hard anymore. What could cause this all of a sudden?
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Was it black or dark color? I think I have the same problem. It's not moist or anything it's kinda like someone spilt paint on it and it's dried up. Hope someone else knows what this could be from.
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As already mentioned it could be your front diff bushing. Mine blew out from 6500rpm launches at the drag strip. It leaked all down the front of the diff and at first I thought it was the cover leaking. Nissan doesn't sell just the bushing, they only sell the entire subframe. That's when Kuah at SPL decided to make the solid diff bushings.
Hopefully it's just some fluid puking out your drain tube.
Hopefully it's just some fluid puking out your drain tube.
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the bushing will visually start sagging if it ruptured (usually on the inside it tears). the center metal portion will not be sitting centered in the middle, it will be sitting lower and the bottom of the rubber seal will be bulging out.
As I said before: if you have an aftermarket LSD, high power or have ever tracked/dragged/drifted your car, your bushing is probably suspect. Yet no one ever checks. This damage so completely compromises the handling of your car it should always be changed if you put in an aftermarket LSD.
the SPL bushing is top notch and beautiful. car feels great after it... best option and inexpensive... but a PITA install.
As I said before: if you have an aftermarket LSD, high power or have ever tracked/dragged/drifted your car, your bushing is probably suspect. Yet no one ever checks. This damage so completely compromises the handling of your car it should always be changed if you put in an aftermarket LSD.
the SPL bushing is top notch and beautiful. car feels great after it... best option and inexpensive... but a PITA install.
Last edited by Motormouth; 12-04-2008 at 09:49 AM.
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go to SPL's web site? http://www.splparts.com/
click to enter > Z33 > suspension > subframe & diff bushings > SPL PRO solid rear differential bushings 350Z/G35 $119
the REAR is the one that breaks. the front two can also be replaced with a kit on that page.
click to enter > Z33 > suspension > subframe & diff bushings > SPL PRO solid rear differential bushings 350Z/G35 $119
the REAR is the one that breaks. the front two can also be replaced with a kit on that page.
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I installed my bushing package from SPL myself (with a friend, a lift and lots of beer, and eventually a machine shop to press out the old front bushings)
it was very labor and time intensive, but not technically demanding. you need a torque wrench to reattach the axles, driveshaft and front diff bushings and other then that, it takes patience and persistence because the rear bushing does not want to come out.
I did not drop my rear subframe to remove it because... I am lazy and had a lift
you need to destroy the rubber portion of the bushing to be able to cut out the bushing. we found a large bore drill to make some access holes, then a hand saw to cut through the metal spindly things on the inside of the bushings (holding the center up) works well. once you get the center & most of the rubber bushing removed (where the diff bolts to) it's a matter of a hacksaw cutting through the outer bushing race which then releases the tension holding it in place and you can take it out. clean up the surface and you are ready to install the new bushing.
*the shops I have seen replacing subframe bushings usually use a blow torch to melt them, and I would do the same if I had dropped the subframe.
the new solid SPL bushing is not 'too' hard to put in, you use a TON of soap and a lil water to lubricate and you basically hammer the everliving hell out of it to get it in. SPL provides a tool so you don't destroy the beautiful anodizing on the bushing but it isn't the greatest tbqh.
I would also recommend you change the two front bushings out as well since you already have it apart.
let me know if that is totally confusing
it was very labor and time intensive, but not technically demanding. you need a torque wrench to reattach the axles, driveshaft and front diff bushings and other then that, it takes patience and persistence because the rear bushing does not want to come out.
I did not drop my rear subframe to remove it because... I am lazy and had a lift
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*the shops I have seen replacing subframe bushings usually use a blow torch to melt them, and I would do the same if I had dropped the subframe.
the new solid SPL bushing is not 'too' hard to put in, you use a TON of soap and a lil water to lubricate and you basically hammer the everliving hell out of it to get it in. SPL provides a tool so you don't destroy the beautiful anodizing on the bushing but it isn't the greatest tbqh.
I would also recommend you change the two front bushings out as well since you already have it apart.
let me know if that is totally confusing
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Last edited by Motormouth; 12-04-2008 at 04:54 PM.