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Maintenance & Repair 350Z up keep and diagnosing/fixing problems

Window Motor repair, they can be fixed!

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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 12:24 PM
  #221  
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icer5160
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Yes, it is true that the window motor will be a bit louder than the original factory after replacing the brushes. This is partly due to the compound used for replacement brushes, but also the fact that the new brushes need to break in. Even if sanded/filed down to fit the commutator smoothly, there's still a break in period.

If sanding the commutator, I highly recommend using 1000 Grit sandpaper and following up with a metal polish, I recently did this for both of my previously re-built window motors and it really helped cut down on the noise.

-Icer signing off
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 11:46 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by Armed Ferret
it worked for me a few years ago in the sense that my window which wasn't working, worked (i.e., it went up and down again).

beyond that, it was awful. the motor was at least 3-4 times louder than it had been. auto up never worked. if i opened the door, the window would drop about 3 inches and wouldn't go up when the door closed. if the door was open, the window wouldn't go back up unless i put it down a bit more first. if i tried to drop the windows with the key fob, they'd go in increments of a couple inches at a time.

this was after performing the reset procedure to the letter no fewer than thirty (30) times.

swapped out the motor for a new one and suddenly everything works as it should again.

sometimes, doing it the right way instead of trying to save 100 bucks is just stupid. this was one of those instances.
If you used a poor quality brush, spring or didn't get the face of the brush properly seated on the motor there will be issues. On top of that there could have been further damage to the windings or the gearbox on the motor. It sounds to me if it was intermittent there wasn't good contact between the brush and the commutator or there was something wrong with the gearbox causing it to get snagged or studder.

So either there was other damage to the motor (highly likely) which means a simple replacement of brushes wouldn't help or the brush replacement wasn't done properly causing the electric motor to not operate as it should.

New range from 160-200$ when looking up online. The cheapest manufactured I can find online (from a trustworthy site and return policy, not ebay) was 130$. Even being a doctor there will be no time in my life that 15 minutes of my time isn't worth saving 130$.

On top of that most people that have purchased re manufactured unites have been on here complaining that they don't even last a year. That doesn't surprise me when the OEM barely lasts 6 years. My repair still works perfect since I rebuilt it in 2009 and is no more loud than my OEM passenger window. It is, however, twice as fast to roll up if I hit the auto up on both at the same time.

On top of that your motor was ruined to begin with. You lost maybe an hour of your time and it didn't work (through error or other defective problem with the OEM motor). Either way you still had to buy another one so it wasn't like you lost money from trying.
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 12:03 PM
  #223  
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ease up cowboy. nowhere did i say your method was shitty or anything like that, so you don't need to jump up quite to quick to defend it.

although i do like how you assumed i didn't do it right. classic.

hint: followed the instructions YOU posted to. the. letter. bought the brushes from the same source, same brand, same part number, same everything.

did i say it wouldn't work well for anyone else? of course not. i just said it didn't work properly for me, but that replacing the window motor (with a new unit, not a reman that'll last 2 months and die....a new, nissan-part-numbered unit) did.

that said, have a great day, dr. defensive.
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