I will be doing this very soon as my driver window started acting up yesterday. I noticed (like everyone else recently) that it's very hard to find 540 motor brushes on the internet. Haven't had time to check hobby shops obviously, since I just found this thread, but I found it odd that "540 motor brushes" wasn't really returning any results. When I searched on eBay, there weren't any upright types, just laydown.

I noticed that one guy got brushes from "Trinity" so I searched for that. Turns out, Trinity Speed Shop no longer calls them "540 brushes." You just have to search around for their upright brushes and just by the picture, you will see it's what you need. At $7 + shipping, they are overpriced, but I'm not complaining. I'm sure there are cheaper options out there, but it's hard to specify what kind of motor you want when it looks like a lot of places stopped calling them "540," so you're left in the dark as to what to search for.

Link to overpriced Trinity brushes: http://www.trinityrc.net/shop/index....ry&path=72_121

 

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...93p?&C=CKB&P=7

First address i typed in for a hobby shop with tons of results. I can list more hobby shops online that have them as well if needed.

 

I went to a hobby shop and bought around 30

 

Right. I was sure that places carried them, but if you just search for "540 motor brushes," it didn't seem to be returning as much. Also saw a few posts by people that they couldn't find them at hobby shops, that's all . The ones you just posted are $3.89, the ones I posted are $7. Potato, potahto.

 

actually at the price i found it's more like 2 of my potato= 1 of your potato

 

is their other Nissan vehicles that use the same motor? g35? 370z? g37? altima?

 

The g35 for sure. What you need to do is find a part number, then it's easy to cross-reference.

 

g35 uses the same motor and they all burn out at the same rate so using one from another car won't be worth it. They all have crappy brushes and when they are rebuilt they use crappy brushes again so those parts store ones won't last long either.

So the best thing is to rebuild it yourself with quality high performance brushes.

 

Well, I figured out today that I shouldn't be allowed around a soldering iron. Did the repair, and it took me half the day because of stupid annoying snags. I'm pretty mechanically competent (custom turbo installs on 2 different cars, etc), but this job just wasn't quick, haha. Anyway, I melted a bunch of the plastic where the brush wires were, but oh well, nobody sees it and the window works like a charm without having to punch the door. The thread is much appreciated.

 

lol, ya, soldering in that tight space takes some patience. The good news is you won't have to do it again for about 10 years since aftermarket brushes are high quality.

glad this thread can help people. The price for window motors is just outrageous and people shouldn't be paying that much for a simple fix.

 

I think I'll be trying this fix in the near future. My drivers side window is starting to show the symptoms.

I have a question for those that have done this repair successfully. When you are sanding the 540 brush to move freely in the brush holder, which dimension are you changing? Is it the wider side, the narrower side, or both? Thanks.

 

I did both. You don't have to be precise at all. Looser is better because if the brush gets stuck in the housing, the springs aren't strong enough to push them onto the cylinder. Make sure they slide in and out with no effort at all. I also did not sand down their length because I held the brushes out and slid the cylinder in like someone else did on here.

 

Awesome! im trying to find the parts locally but having no luck...guess tampa isnt a big hobby city lol.

 

id thought id add this.

be sure to add a dab of grease inside the motor can where the bushing is. other wise it will slow the motor down.

 

fixed the motor on another Z today.. so far ive done 4 Gs and 2 Zs

 

Preferred grease type?

 

any regular automotive grease will work. Synthetic will last longer but it's a small electric motor so regular grease will be plenty if you don't have any synthetic.

That small package of wheel bearing grease from autozone you can get at the register will work.

 

I've never had good car luck, so it makes sense that my passenger window would stop working entirely right as I get done with a speaker install...

Already ordered another set of brushes (the ones you posted, binder).

I am not looking forward to this. I kinda was planning on not doing much else to the car after I got my amp installed next week, sigh...

 

What are you guys using to desolder the two wires?

I need to purchase a tool for that- either a pump or desoldering iron ?

 

Desoldering iron usually has a little bulb that just sucks the solder off after it's melted. Personally I just pull on the wire gently and then apply the soldering iron until it's liquid then the wire will come loose.