Well, I was trying to do the DIY LED Dome Light Mod https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...ml#post7903070, and I guess I shorted out something in the BCM. Can somebody elaborate a little more on what I did. Also, could somebody be more specific on what parts I need to replace, or would it be better to just replace the BCM completely? Any advice on this would be very appreciated!

 

there is a hidden fuse box behind the battery, u need to remove the cover for the battery and the covers that they battery cover attaches to to get to it. check there for a blown fuse if u havent already.i cant imagaine u could of damaged the bcm

 

It's a little late now, but I guess you worked on it with the battery still connected, right?

As the other post suggests, check fuses first.

What works and what doesn't work in the car? The BCM controls a lot of things - wipers, door locks, windows, turn signals, remote keyless entry, defroster, all lighting, A/C, etc.

It's relatively easy to damage - all you have to do is short something or run power into a connection it's not supposed to go. It's like the ECU, nothing but electronics.

 

Everything in the car works except the vanity mirror lights and the dome lights.I checked the other fuse box behind the battery already,everything's good in that one too. But, yeah I didn't take off the negative on the battery, I didn't think the dome light would be something that major that I needed to do it. I guess from now on I'll do it for everything just in case.

 

I had that problem believe it or not but manually resetting the ecu by pedal, not with scan tool actually fixes this

 

Sometimes fuses can look like they're good even after they've blown. Change the fuse for the interior lights and see if they come back on.

If not, the BCM isn't that hard to fix.

 

bump for resolution? I have the same problem after messing with my head unit. I have no interior dome lights or rear trunk interior light as well my front wiper fluids stopped working at the same time. I did blow one fuse but replaced it and checked all 3 fuse boxes.

 

I think I have a problem similar to what is going on in this thread. I'm going to try the ECU 'Pedal' reset to see of this solves the problem.

I have an 03 Touring with 66,000 miles - completely bone stock. On my way to work this morning, the car exhibited the following:

* Speedo & Tach @ 0 (both digital and analog speed-o)

* The following lights were illuminated on the dash - BRAKE, ABS, VDC OFF, & SLIP. Pushing the VDC button and cycling the e-brake had no effect.

* The temperature gauge was @ 0 (the HVAC was blowing heat fine); the electric fan was on 100% of the time (w/ AC off). The send & return lines to the radiator were at a normal temperature (by touch).

* The VOLT, OIL PRESSURE, & GAS gauges worked fine.

* The car ran perfectly fine for the remaining 10+ miles to work.

* When I got to work, I turned the car off, then back on, the temperature gauge went to NORMAL (1/3 from 0) and the tach went to NORMAL (~700 rpms), then after about 5 seconds and revving to about 1,000 rpms a couple times, the TACH and temperature bounced around, then both the tach and the temperature gauge went to 0.

Has anyone had a similar problem? I haven't looked through the service manual yet, but I'm guessing its either gauge circuit board, ECU, or a ground/fuse. Seeing as two of these four items are pretty pricey, I can't really use my 'best guess' method and replace what I 'think' is the faulty part. Any advice on this one would be greatly appreciated.

Update - checked the fuses by the battery and in the driver's kick panel and found no blown fuses. There was one 'Meter' fuse in the kick panel that seemed like it pulled out too easily, so I made sure it was snugged in there. Started the car and took a drive around the parking lot - all the analog needle gauges worked except the speedometer (the temp and tach didn't work previously - they were both now magically working). The digital speed-o didn't work either, as before, and the ABS, BRAKE, VDC OFF and SLIP lights were all still on.

 

Just for chits and kiggles, I took a few minutes out of my lunch break to go out and look at some ground wires on the Z. Loosened up the main 'to ground - from battery', scratched off some rust, did the same for the terminals, fired it up .... all is right as rain. Really? Wow. Just Wow. And during this whole fiasco, my VOLT gauge never moved a bit from NORMAL. I'm beside myself here.