All,

Just to save everyone some time, I have read up on these systems on this site and other including the manufacturer sites. So, it is fair to say that I know much more about TPMS's than I ever wanted to.

To make a long story short, my TPMS light comes on and my dealer has replaced every component (sensors, antenna, BCM) with no success. In addition, they have "extended" the antenna from the BCM in the hopes that this would improve the initialization process. However, I was driving it home last night from the dealership and the light went back on - first blinking indicating a sensor / communication problem and then solid.

I am at the end of my rope and the service manager is now asking for assistance from NNA Consumer Affairs. My Z is a 2007 Grand Touring Roadster. I bought it new and it only has 12K miles on it.

Has anyone experienced or heard of a TPMS issue this chonic?

Thanks in advance!

 

Dumb question, did they reprogram the sensors after replacing them?

 

Yes. They have been able to get them to initialize upon replacement but it does not seem to last.

 

Never heard of a problem like this before. My guess is there is some obscure connector hidden away that has a flaky connection. It works sometimes but once the car warms up, it flakes out.

 

Mine is out on my 07 because I need to replace the oem sensor or reprogram the sensors.

I am under the impression that the newer models have the TPMS receiver doing double duty with the remote receiver. It is located under the passenger airbag.

The older systems had an antenna running up the passenger side windshield pillar with a separate receiver.
The BCM is on the driver side.

 

07 and having TPMS problems.

There's a special relearn procedure for new sensors each one has to be set at a different air pressure.

I'll get my book on it tomarrow & scan the page for you.

 

Thanks. The problem is that the relearn procedure seems to work ... for a time. When I picked it up yesterday, the light was off once the car was started. Only after about 12-13 miles did it start to blink and stay on. Nothing special happened at that time. I was just driving at about 55-60mph. I then turned around and brought it back to the dealership.

The service manager filed everything with NNA and I should be hearing something from consumer affairs tomorrow.

 

2007 350z tpms sensor info.

 

First, thanks for the replies.

NNA sent out a technician to work on the problem. He told my service manager that there is a known bad lot of pressure sensors from their OEM. So he replaced all four with sensors from a known-good lot and the problem seems to have been fixed. That is the good news.

The bad news is that I asked for some trade-in credit / relief from NNA on a 2010 Z and got nothing. My service manager communicated to them that I was I was a loyal customer (4th Nissan) and my second Z (2003 Z Coupe) and that I had gotten rid of the first due to the tire cupping issue. Now I have a 2007 roadster with the cupping issue confirmed as NNA replaced my front tires at ~9k miles. I was hoping that moving to the 2010 would take care of the cupping problem due to changes in the suspension.

The final result is this:
- NNA will be of no assistance on a new Z.
- My current Z has the cupping issue.
- If the TPMS issue comes back I will file suit demanding a buy-out.
- I will NEVER own another Nissan.

In the meantime, I have a $40k hair dryer that I still enjoy driving in spite of NNA not being willing to lend a hand to a formerly-loyal customer.

Hey Nissan ... !

 

NNA can't cut you a deal on buying a new Z. You're buying it from the dealer, not NNA.
Do you expect NNA to quote you a price that's less than the dealer is willing to accept?

 

Actually, I was looking for Nissan to provide me with some monetary assistance under the stipulation that it would be used to purchase a new Z. The mechanism used to accomplish this goal was of no consequence to me and would have been between Nissan and whomever deemed necessary to carry it out. There are a seemingly endless number of scenarios where this could have been done but they chose not to. Therefore, I use that same right of choice to exclude Nissan when making future purchases.

 

If you think that Nissan or any other manufacturer (except toyota maybe) are going to give you money just because you had a problem, especially a minor one, you're going to be sadly disappointed with any car you buy.

 

I understand your point of view ... even though I don't share it. But that's the good thing about discussion forums. Differing opinions and points of view are discussed and considered.

So to paraphrase the original question, have you experienced or heard of a TPMS issue this chonic?

 

- never heard of an issue that chronic
- seems as if the NNA tech found the issue -with the bad lot of sensors - hope the best for ya..
- NNA stepping in and working a deal on new car - lol
- cupping issue - tire feathering??? - buy aftermarket upper control arms and enjoy your car forever..might i suggest
- 2010 suspension isn't any better

 

Understood. Actually, I hope the problem is fixed but only time will tell. After all, it was "fixed" 4 times since May 2009 only to resurface. I still do love to drive the car and probably will for quite some time although I have no intention on buying another.

Yes, the cupping issue is the feathering problem. I had it on my 2003 and have it on my 2007 and was hoping that it would be fixed in 2010. However, if not and if the TPMS problem doesn't come back I will look to do some mods. Changing the upper control arms would allow you to adjust camber, but do you know was that camber setting should be to avoid the problem?

 

The easy way to avoid the feathering issue is to keep your front end aligned. I get mine done every 6 months or so and it is always out of alignment. The only "defect" with our suspensions is that they don't hold alignment. I haven't had it return since 2004/2005 so I know that alignment is the fix.

 

Changing the upper control arms - like the ones i posted - allow for camber change, pretty much at whatever ride height you are at.....

Toe is already adjustable on our cars via the tie rods.

so Caster is the only thing you wont have, but thats usually not needed to be changed unless somethings wrong. ie torn bushing, bushing wear or unibody flex. So no need to spend big money on caster adjustable uca's....

So yes, if you get UCA's and then the alignment camber more positive and toe in spec you will never have the issue again......uca's are a small price to pay if you love your car and see yourself keeping it............thus saving tire money and issues/headaces down the road....

I completely agree!! our cars dont hold alignment...


OP,
I just posted this in another thread, and thought i would post it here as well for you OP!


In my honest opinion every Z owner should have either the NTB 5 year alignment deal or the Firestone lifetime unlimited alignment added to their car from day one (I choose NTB because their newer facilities have "in ground" alignment racks).

-(Nissan's in general) -
350Z is very picking in "toe" over many other vehicles i have seen..........usually there is a .5 to 1 degree range but with the 350z there is .08F to .07R toe variation change. (green zone)

It's quite easy for you to go "out of range" when peeps start buying LM/volks/works, etc in up sized wheels/tires and then "go back to OEM" some time down the road.

and not only for that reason, but the Z is also very **** to:

2. bushings - Z has crappy bushings.......Every Z i have seen has bushings that have worn, torn or straight up moved and deformed to a "non centered" location in its mount (rear shock to knuckle location, front shock to LCA (translink) location etc).

3. Front unibody does tweak - I have yet to see a 350Z with caster thats in range, close on each side or anywhere near the oem 8.17 degrees it should be....... and a .75 difference is huge!!!! IMHO A difference in caster of .5 is noticeable!! slight drift/pull to one side while cruis'n on the hwy, etc..

SEE HERE - notice the small difference in TOE....if your in spec with one wheel size, then swap to another, its easy to fall out of range:
FRONT:


REAR:


In the end, its up to you, but an alignment special is worth it. They pay for themselves in two visits over the standard one time price..

-J

 

Actually, camber is adjustable up to a point. My fronts were about -0.7/-1.0º from the factory. There is enough play in the front bolts and nut blocks to be able to adjust them both up to -1.5º.

I also stopped running the OEM recommendation of max toe-in and went with 0.0 toe. With that setup, the car handles great for autox and track and I've actually gotten the best wear out of my street tires ever. I would quickly wear the outer tread block off my street tires as I tend to corner hard most of the time. Now, with the increased negative camber, I'm wearing both the inner and outer tread blocks about the same, still no feathering has re-occurred. The only downside to 0 toe is that the car tramlines a little worse on really worn asphalt roads.