dudegetalife

iTrader: (2)

i've read and searched thru whole forum trying to find a topic that covers both but doesn't i might ahve 3 seperate issues.

1st.--when at idle its just above 10psi and if i go cruising at 75mph its at 35psi maybe if i'm lucky. I'm having a buddy do a compression test tommorow to see if its the sensor. use 10w30 with whatever filter oil combo thats on sale right now ryp and k&n.

But when i change my oil first 2 weeks it runs like it should 15+ psi idle 60+ when doing 75mph. so idk any suggestions besides oil presure sensor?

2--- My drivers side 3rd spark plug from front always has oil in it and i cant figure out why the 2nd from front has just a dash of it i've changed boots the coil and valve cover gasket nothing seems to help it dealer says to change the whole valve cover maybe its leaking but i'm hoping for different suggestions before spending 300 for one.

3---- my radiator fan is always on. ALWAYS its louder than my engine sometimes i've just put a new radiator in and i can't seem to figure out why radiator fan is always on is that normal???

ps. 2004 350z roadster 112k miles. 3rd owner. had since 54k

Jarred@Z1

iTrader: (4)

well the oil is most likely the eniter valve cover because u cant replace spark plug well packings. and fans could be a relay or cooling sensor also is ur a/c on?

dudegetalife

iTrader: (2)

ac works so does heater even when its off radiator fan still on

I changed the valve cover gaskets but i dont really want to get the whole valve cover

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

to stop that valve cover leak you can either get a new valve cover or sell the car. good luck!

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

On the first problem, I would ask if there has been any work done inside the engine.

On the second issue, It is a common problem with the valve cover itself. Because they have a spark plug tube seals in the cover it is extremely expensive to replace (180 -200 each side). What I've done was to use a high temp sealent around the valve cover tube seals and it has worked well.

On the final problem, I know the fan will turn on for a number of reasons. Sometimes it will run due to a faulty relay, incorrect refrigerant levels,AC switch, etc.. some of these reasons will cause the system to run in fail safe mode. Are there any CEL's?

"When the fail-safe system for engine coolant temperature sensor is activated, the cooling fan operates while engine is running."

dudegetalife

iTrader: (2)

no work it turns out its pretty normal idles at 14 psi but stupid guage makes it look like 10 or less


would it hurt anything if i just let it get oil in their? any chance of major damage in future?


dont know what cels are? it might need some freon but ac blows good cold air.....

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Ok that's good with the oil pressure, and I don't think it would be a problem if a little oil pools in the tube. However, the CEL's I was referring to are Check Engine Lights. If there is a CEL it could be explaining what is wrong because the main reasons for the fan to run like that revolve around broken sensors.

dudegetalife

iTrader: (2)

no check engine lights works fine i just had new radiator put in but that shouldn't be causing it runs great almost like brand new.


can you tell me more about the seals for engine in spark plug?

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Oh...New radiator that actually could be the cause. Its really tedious and tough to get all the air out of the cooling system. When I switched to an aftermarket radiator my fan was on almost constantly because it was runnig warmer than it should with air in the cooling system. Try bleeding the cooling system and see if the fan goes back to normal.

On the valve cover seals what did you want to know?

dudegetalife

iTrader: (2)

i did bleed the radiator and its not running hot whatsoever just when i'm at a stop and have heater on it moves a little hotter


if i dont repair the seal and oil keeps getting into spark plug will it cause any serious damage later on?

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

I really can't think of a reason you would get serious damage from oil in the spark plug tube.

The fact that the temp moves at all tells me that there is air in the system. Also with the heater on it should actually become cooler. Another test for air in the system is the turn on the car and get up to temp. Then with the radio off and the heater temp turned hot (fan off though) listen for water moving in the heater from the driver's seat. It is most notable when you barley touch the throttle. If you hear it the confirms there is air in it.

dudegetalife

iTrader: (2)

just bleed it via the valve with a flathead right?

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Its a little more time consuming than that unfortunately. its a series of on and off, opening the valve on the heater hose and refilling the coolant reserve. All the while making sure it doesn't fall too low and let air in.