How I fixed my rear suspension CLUNK / NOISE....for $4
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 54
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From: New Jersey
i just finished this DIY. The squeeking noise is still there but it was reduced by a lot with the gasket.
FOr the shock bolt spacers, Stance gr+ true style has different hole sizes! Ex. on the left coilover, there are two bolt holes in the shock bracket for a bolt to go through them, right?
One hole has .502" diameter and other hole is 5/8" diameter (what OP mentioned). My 5/8" diameter CPVC pipe cant be installed in .502" diamter.
FOr the shock bolt spacers, Stance gr+ true style has different hole sizes! Ex. on the left coilover, there are two bolt holes in the shock bracket for a bolt to go through them, right?
One hole has .502" diameter and other hole is 5/8" diameter (what OP mentioned). My 5/8" diameter CPVC pipe cant be installed in .502" diamter.
Did you also try to use the expanding spray foam into the cavity above the shock? I think that was supposed to be very helpful. I wonder if it is even more helpful than the spacer?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
okay i found the pipe i used. it is pex tubing. this is what is written on it..
1/2"id by 5/8"od...H/C Pex Tube. 5ft QB3PS5X. upc is "0 84169 48506 9". i think i got it from ACE Hardware, but it may have been lowes. Anyways, it is a standard size pex tubing that you should be able to find easily.
here is a link to what lowes carries.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_220246-61002...|0%26Ntt%3Dpex
you will see that the pex is more flexable than the stuff in the link you posted, which makes it work well for this application, if it is the size you need.
1/2"id by 5/8"od...H/C Pex Tube. 5ft QB3PS5X. upc is "0 84169 48506 9". i think i got it from ACE Hardware, but it may have been lowes. Anyways, it is a standard size pex tubing that you should be able to find easily.
here is a link to what lowes carries.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_220246-61002...|0%26Ntt%3Dpex
you will see that the pex is more flexable than the stuff in the link you posted, which makes it work well for this application, if it is the size you need.
Did you also fill the cavity above the shock with expanding foam or was this enough?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Hi everyone,
Would everyone who tried this and it worked post a YES response, just trying to get a tally.
Excited this may have worked for a lot of people. Will try it myself and spread the news.
Would everyone who tried this and it worked post a YES response, just trying to get a tally.
Excited this may have worked for a lot of people. Will try it myself and spread the news.
Bought the pvc pipe and the gasket. Just did this mod along with new rear end links. Def can feel a difference cornering. Seems like the clunk is now gone. Thank OP!
good luck to all.
I'm running KW V2's, hotchkis sways, and whiteline endlinks. After about 3-4 weeks of driving on all the new parts, I'm having the infamous clunk in the rear as well. Definitely going to try this super inexpensive fix and see if it works. Huge thanks to the OP for getting me looking in the right direction!
How long have you had them on? My clunk didn't show up until about 4 weeks after I installed everything. It's either this spacer fix, or my Whiteline endlinks are binding up
Update: This was, in fact, not my problem. The hole for the lower mount on the rear shock body of the KW's is dead on when it comes to diameter size. However, I did notice my endlinks appeared to be somewhat at a bad angle (whiteline endlinks set to the full soft hole on the hotchkis sway). I moved them to the medium setting. While climbing under the back I also noticed my rear diff bushing has blown. Couldn't see the leak from directly behind the car. It had busted and leaked down the backside of the rear subframe, between the diff cover and the subframe.
Since I moved the endlinks to the medium setting, I haven't heard any clunking. I'm assuming that was part, if not all, of the problem. I'll update again once I get the diff bushings swapped out next weekend.
Since I moved the endlinks to the medium setting, I haven't heard any clunking. I'm assuming that was part, if not all, of the problem. I'll update again once I get the diff bushings swapped out next weekend.
What about something like this?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-bushings-and-liners
I've got the same rattling problem... I'm really interested in a permanent fix. They have a piece that's 1/2" inner diameter / 5/8" outer diameter, but 3/8" in length. It could be cut in half to make two spacers, or maybe just used as is...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-bushings-and-liners
I've got the same rattling problem... I'm really interested in a permanent fix. They have a piece that's 1/2" inner diameter / 5/8" outer diameter, but 3/8" in length. It could be cut in half to make two spacers, or maybe just used as is...
Fix worked for me, only mine was being caused by a stripped lower shock nut (the one welded to the shock body) which prevented me from being able to torque the bolt down to #74-88. Either way I noticed the hole on the opposite side of the lower shock fork was oblong (~0.5mm oval), which would indicate abnormal wear. The bolt is 11.9mm (12mm bolt), the hole on my shocks measured 14.6mm.
A fresh nut on the one side, combined with a washer on the new bolt, with a bushing added as described by the OP (I used 1/2 rubber hose) eliminated my suspension clunk.
I would be interested to hear if just a washer and a torque to maybe 90ft/lbs would fix the issue without the need for a DIY bushing.
Thanks OP.
A fresh nut on the one side, combined with a washer on the new bolt, with a bushing added as described by the OP (I used 1/2 rubber hose) eliminated my suspension clunk.
I would be interested to hear if just a washer and a torque to maybe 90ft/lbs would fix the issue without the need for a DIY bushing.
Thanks OP.
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