I have a 2005 enth. with about 35k miles. The past few weeks, I've had a few times where the car would not start on the first turn. There are no CEL, no smells, no irregular sounds. It would take 3 or 4 tries and then it would start. Once it starts, runs/idles fine, like new.

My first guess was a weakened battery. Its still OEM battery so its about time to be replaced. But the voltage meter is showing 12.5v (not running), which I believe is normal.

It doesnt happen enough to properly diagnose yet, but any thoughts on some other common problems I could check for?

Thanks

 

Battery has been in service for about 60 months?
Low temperatures in San Jose have been?

 

try another key

 

I would take the battery to get tested. Although it has the correct voltage they need to put it under load to see if it can still deliver enough current to crank up the car.

Low temperatures can also reduce battery capacity but it should still start on the first try.

 

I had the same problem this morning again. Seems to be getting more frequent.

You're right about the crank voltage, I forgot to consider that. I'll drop by autozone during lunch to get it tested. I'm guessing thats exatly the problem.

thanks for the responses

 

A battery is not that expensive and you are probably due for a new battery anyways.

Around the 5 year mark is when most of the Z batteries have been kicking the bucket.

 

does the engine actually turn over?

 

CCA - COLD CRANKING AMPS - voltage is crap! its all about where the kick comes from and thats current in amps buddy......

battery is a gonner......

the more you try and mess with it, the more you strain the alternator and starter, i hope you get a new battery before those two are prematurely killed due to the strain you put on them from trying to run them with a bad battery....

Seen it happen......

-J

 

update -

Got it tested and indeed it seems to be a battery problem. It was only putting out 4 cranking volts, which I believe is half of what is normal. Searching around for the best replacement now.

Thanks!

 

Amazing that that thing would even attempt to crank the engine, Thats not even enough current to run lights. Good thing you didnt toast your alternator.

 

Actually, I believe the surface volts is what actually powers the other electronics. It read 12.4 surface volts but only 4.? cranking volts. So my radio, lights, etc were functioning fine. It just didnt have the crank volts to crank the engine. I'm not good with batteries but I guess thats how it works.

 

Duralast Gold from autozone. Lots of cranking amps and at least 5 additional HPs .

 

this happned to my bros car. the oem batts have some water in them that needs to be check to make sure its full or something. his batt was reading correct voltage but the water was low and had a damaged cel or something. he got a new bat and all is good

 

+5hp? I dont think thats possible unless youre running a hybrid