350z Annoying Rear Rattle Noise - Fix
12-10-2010, 07:12 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
350z Annoying Rear Rattle Noise - Fix
Hi Guys, this is my first post because I just bought my 2007 350z a week ago. So I was showing off my car to a friend and he says "what's that noise?" It was a rattling noise coming from the rear interior area of the car. I had never heard it before but probably because 1) I had just bought it 2) I was used to listening to the radio 3) My previous car was a 1977 corvette with a vortec heads and a 268 cam so I was used to lots of noise. Any how, my friend pointed out the noise I couldn't un-hear it. I would drive around with the radio off so I could try to more-less pin point the source, and the amount of noise was driving my insane. The noise sounded like aluminum cans rattling any time I go over a crack in the road, and sounded like it was coming from the passenger side of the rear.
So I started searching and reading over all the threads for people with noise problems... lots of ppl apparently. And so I took out all of the plastic interior from the rear. I left it as pure metal and wires in the back. Drove around and the noise was 10 times worse. So it wasn't any of the plastic clacking with any of the wires or cables.
Yesterday I had my friend drive around in a bumpy parking lot while I stuffed myself in the rear trying to hear exactly where the noise was coming from. Unfortunately there was so much road noise I that the rattle almost seemed to come from all over. Just once it sounded like it was coming from the strut bar.
Went home and got underneath the car, and found an aluminum shield that goes over the muffler. Pushing the shield lightly with my finger caused it to tap against another metal part so I put a little duct tape between the metal pieces. Drove around and a little of the noise was gone, but most of the rattle was still there.
Next I removed the passenger tire and removed the shock absorber. Put the tire back on and drove around without one shock. The noise was still there. Finally I pulled off the driver side tire and removed the other shock as well. Put the tire back on, drove around without any rear shocks and the noise was gone.
Got back home, looked at the shocks, and they have this orange rubber seal that goes between the shock bracket and the body of the car. The seals were completely dry, not broken, but totally dry and brittle. So I looked around the house and found some foam mats that my kids used to play on, and I cut me out some new seals. Sprayed the new seals down on both sides with white lithium grease, put on the new seals, put the shocks back in, and most of the noise is gone. What is left of any noise is mostly road noise. I've also read that when these 350z shocks go bad they rattle, so down the road I will replace the shocks and see if all the noise is completely eliminated.
So for anyone having lots of rattle like I was, remove both shocks and drive around the neighborhood. If your noise completely disappears then you know what it is. (You're not going to harm your car by driving around the block without shocks, and your tires won't rub on the body, even on bumps).
Removing the shock is easy. The only tip I have for the shock installation is make sure you have 2 jacks. One to hold up your car, and the other to push up on the spring to make it easier to reinstall the shock absorber. If you don't push up on the spring you will have a hell of time extending the shock enough to get the bolt back in.
Good luck!
So I started searching and reading over all the threads for people with noise problems... lots of ppl apparently. And so I took out all of the plastic interior from the rear. I left it as pure metal and wires in the back. Drove around and the noise was 10 times worse. So it wasn't any of the plastic clacking with any of the wires or cables.
Yesterday I had my friend drive around in a bumpy parking lot while I stuffed myself in the rear trying to hear exactly where the noise was coming from. Unfortunately there was so much road noise I that the rattle almost seemed to come from all over. Just once it sounded like it was coming from the strut bar.
Went home and got underneath the car, and found an aluminum shield that goes over the muffler. Pushing the shield lightly with my finger caused it to tap against another metal part so I put a little duct tape between the metal pieces. Drove around and a little of the noise was gone, but most of the rattle was still there.
Next I removed the passenger tire and removed the shock absorber. Put the tire back on and drove around without one shock. The noise was still there. Finally I pulled off the driver side tire and removed the other shock as well. Put the tire back on, drove around without any rear shocks and the noise was gone.
Got back home, looked at the shocks, and they have this orange rubber seal that goes between the shock bracket and the body of the car. The seals were completely dry, not broken, but totally dry and brittle. So I looked around the house and found some foam mats that my kids used to play on, and I cut me out some new seals. Sprayed the new seals down on both sides with white lithium grease, put on the new seals, put the shocks back in, and most of the noise is gone. What is left of any noise is mostly road noise. I've also read that when these 350z shocks go bad they rattle, so down the road I will replace the shocks and see if all the noise is completely eliminated.
So for anyone having lots of rattle like I was, remove both shocks and drive around the neighborhood. If your noise completely disappears then you know what it is. (You're not going to harm your car by driving around the block without shocks, and your tires won't rub on the body, even on bumps).
Removing the shock is easy. The only tip I have for the shock installation is make sure you have 2 jacks. One to hold up your car, and the other to push up on the spring to make it easier to reinstall the shock absorber. If you don't push up on the spring you will have a hell of time extending the shock enough to get the bolt back in.
Good luck!
The following users liked this post:
Ryan Hinz (11-27-2020)
12-20-2010, 08:33 PM
#3
Registered User
"If you don't push up on the spring you will have a hell of time extending the shock enough to get the bolt back in."
Every shock absorber I've messed with tried to get longer when it wasn't restrained. New ones even come with a strap so they'll fit in a smaller box.
Every shock absorber I've messed with tried to get longer when it wasn't restrained. New ones even come with a strap so they'll fit in a smaller box.
12-22-2010, 02:04 PM
#4
Registered User
Kudos to ab9413!!!
Earlier this week, my car started making a squishy noise from the left rear shock tower area when I went over any sharp discontinuity in the pavement, like where a driveway isn't blended smoothly into the street, etc. Very annoying.
I removed the shock, and found the dried out (but still intact) "gasket". I rubbed some heavy oil into the material, and put everything back together.
The irritating noise is gone, and I love my car again.
Oh yeah, the shock really does try to get shorter when you take it off. The extra jack does the trick nicely. You definitely DO NOT want to take the shock off without having a jack under the spring seat.
Earlier this week, my car started making a squishy noise from the left rear shock tower area when I went over any sharp discontinuity in the pavement, like where a driveway isn't blended smoothly into the street, etc. Very annoying.
I removed the shock, and found the dried out (but still intact) "gasket". I rubbed some heavy oil into the material, and put everything back together.
The irritating noise is gone, and I love my car again.
Oh yeah, the shock really does try to get shorter when you take it off. The extra jack does the trick nicely. You definitely DO NOT want to take the shock off without having a jack under the spring seat.
12-22-2010, 02:16 PM
#5
Registered User
Once you get the car jacked up, the wheel off, and the second jack under the spring seat, you only have two nuts at the top and one bolt at the bottom of the shock absorber. Everything is done from inside the wheel well.
12-22-2010, 06:09 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks winchman.
It seems pretty simple, but I'm scared I might mess something up... Also is an alignment required after this? anyone willing to take some time to post some pics/how to? thanks
It seems pretty simple, but I'm scared I might mess something up... Also is an alignment required after this? anyone willing to take some time to post some pics/how to? thanks
12-22-2010, 09:28 PM
#7
Registered User
Removing the wheel and the shock doesn't change any of the alignment settings.
As long as you keep the second jack under the spring seat, nothing bad will happen. The shock normally keeps the suspension from moving enough so that the spring will shift in the seat or come out altogether. Having the spring come out would be REALLY bad. It might mess something up, and you might even be injured by the flying spring. Getting it back in would probably be a bear, too.
If you're really worried about it, you might get away with just loosening the two nuts at the top until they're almost to the end of the studs. Then spray the mount area with lubricant, and tighten the nuts back up. If pieces of the gasket fall out, you'll have to take it the rest of the way apart to put a new one in.
The one on my car was just a piece of heavy gasket paper about 3" in diameter with a 1 1/2" hole in it. Anything reasonably close will work.
As long as you keep the second jack under the spring seat, nothing bad will happen. The shock normally keeps the suspension from moving enough so that the spring will shift in the seat or come out altogether. Having the spring come out would be REALLY bad. It might mess something up, and you might even be injured by the flying spring. Getting it back in would probably be a bear, too.
If you're really worried about it, you might get away with just loosening the two nuts at the top until they're almost to the end of the studs. Then spray the mount area with lubricant, and tighten the nuts back up. If pieces of the gasket fall out, you'll have to take it the rest of the way apart to put a new one in.
The one on my car was just a piece of heavy gasket paper about 3" in diameter with a 1 1/2" hole in it. Anything reasonably close will work.
Trending Topics
01-15-2011, 11:35 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I jacked up the car today (without taking off the wheel or loosing the two nuts)... and I think I saw the rubber piece yall were talking about and sprayed it down with some motorcycle chain lube I have laying around... Can't tell if I notice a difference yet since I only drove it around the neighborhood. Pieces of the rubber isn't broken/fall out - so that's a good thing.
Here is a pic:
Here is a pic:
01-30-2013, 06:38 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I jacked up the car today (without taking off the wheel or loosing the two nuts)... and I think I saw the rubber piece yall were talking about and sprayed it down with some motorcycle chain lube I have laying around... Can't tell if I notice a difference yet since I only drove it around the neighborhood. Pieces of the rubber isn't broken/fall out - so that's a good thing.
Here is a pic:
Here is a pic:
07-05-2013, 12:58 PM
#11
New Member
iTrader: (4)
^same here with my '07. Noticed it about 2 yrs. after buying it; seems worse in cold weather. I've done trial and error for this or that; plastic panels contacting metal or each other; put cloth/foam pieces in a variety of places "just in case". Mine comes from pass. side rear area. I've used dry lube silicon in tight spaces that move around slightly, etc. Been real hot here so I kind of forget about it during Summer. Sounds like plenty of guys have the same type of issue. *I don't think mine has anything to do with the rear shock, but that may be next.
Last edited by BigBlue; 07-05-2013 at 01:01 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Desert Z (10-04-2018)
09-09-2013, 02:16 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: West Covina
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Guys, this is my first post because I just bought my 2007 350z a week ago. So I was showing off my car to a friend and he says "what's that noise?" It was a rattling noise coming from the rear interior area of the car. I had never heard it before but probably because 1) I had just bought it 2) I was used to listening to the radio 3) My previous car was a 1977 corvette with a vortec heads and a 268 cam so I was used to lots of noise. Any how, my friend pointed out the noise I couldn't un-hear it. I would drive around with the radio off so I could try to more-less pin point the source, and the amount of noise was driving my insane. The noise sounded like aluminum cans rattling any time I go over a crack in the road, and sounded like it was coming from the passenger side of the rear.
So I started searching and reading over all the threads for people with noise problems... lots of ppl apparently. And so I took out all of the plastic interior from the rear. I left it as pure metal and wires in the back. Drove around and the noise was 10 times worse. So it wasn't any of the plastic clacking with any of the wires or cables.
Yesterday I had my friend drive around in a bumpy parking lot while I stuffed myself in the rear trying to hear exactly where the noise was coming from. Unfortunately there was so much road noise I that the rattle almost seemed to come from all over. Just once it sounded like it was coming from the strut bar.
Went home and got underneath the car, and found an aluminum shield that goes over the muffler. Pushing the shield lightly with my finger caused it to tap against another metal part so I put a little duct tape between the metal pieces. Drove around and a little of the noise was gone, but most of the rattle was still there.
Next I removed the passenger tire and removed the shock absorber. Put the tire back on and drove around without one shock. The noise was still there. Finally I pulled off the driver side tire and removed the other shock as well. Put the tire back on, drove around without any rear shocks and the noise was gone.
Got back home, looked at the shocks, and they have this orange rubber seal that goes between the shock bracket and the body of the car. The seals were completely dry, not broken, but totally dry and brittle. So I looked around the house and found some foam mats that my kids used to play on, and I cut me out some new seals. Sprayed the new seals down on both sides with white lithium grease, put on the new seals, put the shocks back in, and most of the noise is gone. What is left of any noise is mostly road noise. I've also read that when these 350z shocks go bad they rattle, so down the road I will replace the shocks and see if all the noise is completely eliminated.
So for anyone having lots of rattle like I was, remove both shocks and drive around the neighborhood. If your noise completely disappears then you know what it is. (You're not going to harm your car by driving around the block without shocks, and your tires won't rub on the body, even on bumps).
Removing the shock is easy. The only tip I have for the shock installation is make sure you have 2 jacks. One to hold up your car, and the other to push up on the spring to make it easier to reinstall the shock absorber. If you don't push up on the spring you will have a hell of time extending the shock enough to get the bolt back in.
Good luck!
So I started searching and reading over all the threads for people with noise problems... lots of ppl apparently. And so I took out all of the plastic interior from the rear. I left it as pure metal and wires in the back. Drove around and the noise was 10 times worse. So it wasn't any of the plastic clacking with any of the wires or cables.
Yesterday I had my friend drive around in a bumpy parking lot while I stuffed myself in the rear trying to hear exactly where the noise was coming from. Unfortunately there was so much road noise I that the rattle almost seemed to come from all over. Just once it sounded like it was coming from the strut bar.
Went home and got underneath the car, and found an aluminum shield that goes over the muffler. Pushing the shield lightly with my finger caused it to tap against another metal part so I put a little duct tape between the metal pieces. Drove around and a little of the noise was gone, but most of the rattle was still there.
Next I removed the passenger tire and removed the shock absorber. Put the tire back on and drove around without one shock. The noise was still there. Finally I pulled off the driver side tire and removed the other shock as well. Put the tire back on, drove around without any rear shocks and the noise was gone.
Got back home, looked at the shocks, and they have this orange rubber seal that goes between the shock bracket and the body of the car. The seals were completely dry, not broken, but totally dry and brittle. So I looked around the house and found some foam mats that my kids used to play on, and I cut me out some new seals. Sprayed the new seals down on both sides with white lithium grease, put on the new seals, put the shocks back in, and most of the noise is gone. What is left of any noise is mostly road noise. I've also read that when these 350z shocks go bad they rattle, so down the road I will replace the shocks and see if all the noise is completely eliminated.
So for anyone having lots of rattle like I was, remove both shocks and drive around the neighborhood. If your noise completely disappears then you know what it is. (You're not going to harm your car by driving around the block without shocks, and your tires won't rub on the body, even on bumps).
Removing the shock is easy. The only tip I have for the shock installation is make sure you have 2 jacks. One to hold up your car, and the other to push up on the spring to make it easier to reinstall the shock absorber. If you don't push up on the spring you will have a hell of time extending the shock enough to get the bolt back in.
Good luck!
09-12-2013, 06:35 PM
#15
Registered User
Dear lord, haven't been here in awhile...
THANK YOU LANDONZ!!!
I've had this problem since I bought the car and never found a working solution, only lots of headaches and time spent in small crevices in the trunk lol.
Just google the part and that part #. You will get a ton of places that carry this part specifically for the Z and G's.
Here is a quick link for reference...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0077&ppt=C0035
THANK YOU LANDONZ!!!
I've had this problem since I bought the car and never found a working solution, only lots of headaches and time spent in small crevices in the trunk lol.
Just google the part and that part #. You will get a ton of places that carry this part specifically for the Z and G's.
Here is a quick link for reference...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0077&ppt=C0035
11-24-2013, 09:55 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lake Mary, FL
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just replaced the top shock mount bushings and it fixed the rattle that was driving me crazy! Very easy job. Extending the shock enough to get the nuts on at the top was a problem until I realized I could use the jack under the spring to compress it enough to get the nuts on.
A warning: The top rubber bushing that comes in the kit looks quite a bit different and is about twice as tall as the stock bushing. Don't worry, it is the right part.
A warning: The top rubber bushing that comes in the kit looks quite a bit different and is about twice as tall as the stock bushing. Don't worry, it is the right part.
12-08-2013, 07:59 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just fixed my annoying rear squeak with the KYO SM5482 bushing. The bushing kit is a little bigger than the one that is stock, it's correct though. The only thing i would like to add is the rubber gasket that sits on the top mounting plate of the shock bracket was worn. It looked like a piece of bacon. This rubber gasket is not supplied with the kit. I had to improvise with some rubber foam material that was laying around. It's a good idea to replace the gasket when doing the bushings. Best $35 I've spent in a while.
My car is completely silent now!!!
Drive Safe
My car is completely silent now!!!
Drive Safe
12-17-2013, 06:46 PM
#20
ok i am in the exact same boat as you, and I am not sure if this will fix it. Do you mind telling me what part this KYB SM5842 is replacing? I know you said its a bushing kit, but what does the OEM look like?
is it pictured below?
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...e-imag0910.jpg
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...e-imag0911.jpg
is it pictured below?
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...e-imag0910.jpg
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...e-imag0911.jpg