Back in town, I passed the word to the shop yesterday and told them to use ian99rt bleeding procedure and the results are the same.
This is driving me nuts. Any more ideas ?

 

Is it possible that the pivot bolt for the release fork is too short? Seems I read somewhere that there were two lengths available for the 350Z. Using one that's too short would make it impossible to completely disengage the clutch. Maybe the clutch kit is made for the longer bolt, and your car came with the short one.

 

Here ya go:

"If you haven't changed the transmission to an updated model in your 03 G35 (ex. CD009) then you are more susceptable to snapping the pivotball because it's longer for the thinner, lighter, clutch arm. All other years and transmission have the heavier, thicker, clutch arm and shorter pivotball."

From post #43 here:
http://g35driver.com/forums/drivetra...-clutch-3.html

Sounds like the fork could be different, too.

 

Assuming I have the wrong pivot ball and clutch arm, I should still be able to have a strong clutch pedal.

 

Does the car drive? It isnt necessary to remove the slave from the system during the install of a clutch/fly... So assuming they didnt remove it, why should it need to be bled at all?
Where did you get the set up and was it new?

 

The car isn't driveable. I would be like trying to drive a car by changing gears and only pushing the clutch pedal only a couple of inches. Not very good.
You are right. It is not necessary to remove the slave or the master cylinder. And they didnt remove it at first. When they swapped the clutch and flywheel with the new one from JWT, they realised the pedal wasn't right. They tried to bleed the system and they realised it didnt work, they swapped the master cylinder and the slave with new oem. The JWT flywheel/ clutch setup comes from Concept Z Performance.

 

I dont think your problem is hydraulic... Who's doing the work?
I suggest calling JWT, or a shop that does alot of work on 350's... Your going to have to take it apart again.... I'm pretty sure..
*BTW I had my oem clutch/fly put back in with a new tob, and its good now...

 

Why wouldnt it be hydraulic. If you can push the bearing arm by hand and it makes solid contact with the pressure plate.
If we let the slave cylinder hang down and disconnect it from the bearing arm, the clutch pedal should be rock hard and feel normal if we have a solid connection. Correct ? Then we can determine whether is it hydraulic or if it has to do with the clutch/flywheel/pivot ball ...
I moved to Paris in France now and the car is at a small shop that does a lot of performance cars.

 

hey man, had a similar problem bleeding my brakes on my 2009 gsxr 1000. i had just bought new brembo front brake calipers and the nightmare started. after about 3 hours of bleeding and brake fluid soaking into my skin, i cracked all the banjo bolts. surprise surprise, as soon as i cracked the banjo air squeezed out followed by some oil. re-bleed it after and let me know if that solved the problem.

 

Trust me, they've been bleeding the sucker over 30 times now, and every possibe ways...

 

I had the same problem as well. I ignore it by putting some spacers between the clutch and the highest release point. So it will never going back to full position. Actually it is better for me to shift too.

 

Replacing a full system does take a bit of work to reset, but from what it sounds like your mechanics are useless ! Anyway I just replaced my full system and here are the steps


1.Over fill the reservoir
2.Crack slave a little bit
3.open shop fridge
4.grab a beer or two
5.when the reservoir is almost down to the diaphragm add more fluid
6.Pump clutch 3 times
7.hold pedal
8.crack slave
9.manually push slave back in fully "clutch pedal shout still be down"
10.proceed to bleed system as normal
11.Make sure they pedal has a 1/4" of play up top


Good luck !