New JWT install clutch pedal nightmare
New JWT install clutch pedal nightmare
Ok guys, so my car has been at the shop for over 2 weeks now and they have not yet been able to resolve this issue.
I decided to replace the oem clutch and flywheel with JWT parts. They reassembled everything together and something isnt right with the clutch pedal. My best way to describe this is like the first few inches does nothing and only the last few inches partially engages the clutch. When released, the pedal sticks half way and the only way to get it back up is by pulling on it with your hand or feet.
The guys at the shop bleed the system over 50 times, every possible way possible, two man, reverse bleed, pressure bleed...
When this didnt work, they decided to change the master and slave cylinders with new ones. They also replaced the lines with ss lines. They basically replaced all the possible defective parts with new ones.
I made sure with them that the throughout bearing was on the fork right.
The mechanic even showed me that he can push and engage the clutch by prying on the fork with a big screwdriver easily.
So basically they are stuck at this point, they have called every nissan dealership in the area but no one seems to have a clue.
If anyone has any ideas...
I decided to replace the oem clutch and flywheel with JWT parts. They reassembled everything together and something isnt right with the clutch pedal. My best way to describe this is like the first few inches does nothing and only the last few inches partially engages the clutch. When released, the pedal sticks half way and the only way to get it back up is by pulling on it with your hand or feet.
The guys at the shop bleed the system over 50 times, every possible way possible, two man, reverse bleed, pressure bleed...
When this didnt work, they decided to change the master and slave cylinders with new ones. They also replaced the lines with ss lines. They basically replaced all the possible defective parts with new ones.
I made sure with them that the throughout bearing was on the fork right.
The mechanic even showed me that he can push and engage the clutch by prying on the fork with a big screwdriver easily.
So basically they are stuck at this point, they have called every nissan dealership in the area but no one seems to have a clue.
If anyone has any ideas...
@davejackson: i dont think it has to do with repositioning the pedal but I will call the shop and pass the word to them.
I think and according to the mechanic it is a hydraulic issue rather than mechanic or defective parts.
I also sent an email to JWT asking for feedback.
I think and according to the mechanic it is a hydraulic issue rather than mechanic or defective parts.
I also sent an email to JWT asking for feedback.
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Hmm I have a similar problem... Bled many times, replaced master/slave/line/fluid... Exedy stg1/fidanza.. I'm pretty sure its air in the line...
Do you know how to bleed the slave? Push clutch, hold. Open bleeder, push in the slave with finger, hold, close bleeder. Try that...
Last summer sucked because of it, now the tob needs fixn'..
Do you know how to bleed the slave? Push clutch, hold. Open bleeder, push in the slave with finger, hold, close bleeder. Try that...
Last summer sucked because of it, now the tob needs fixn'..
Wu-Watt, they bleed the slave just like you said.
When they use the power bleeder, they get a nice firm pedal that returns fully. However, once the motive bleeder is depressurized and removed, the pedal becomes soft again and has trouble returning.
When they use the power bleeder, they get a nice firm pedal that returns fully. However, once the motive bleeder is depressurized and removed, the pedal becomes soft again and has trouble returning.
Just got back from the shop. If I am correct they are only 3 parts on the clutch hydraulic circuit. The master cylinder, the slave cylinder and a little reducer hidden in the front driver side wheel well. Can anyone confirm ?
If you search around i think i have a posting about how i had to bleed my clutch b/c it was being a pain in the ***. Basically the fluid is very slow to refill the empty volume when you bleed it out.
So if you pump the pedal again before the volume is filled you don't get anywhere. I bled my brakes by doing a full 30 second pause between pumps.
https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/5042...ng-issues.html
I just bled my clutch last night after replacing the recall CSC and new SS clutch line.
Heres the process I had to take (majority of text copied from johnwig):
1. Make sure clutch pedal is adjusted properly, mine had been previously adjust and didn't have enough throw to really get things moving
2. slowly compress pedal and relase pedal (about 2 sec each way)
3. wait 10 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
4. repeat about 10 times - These iterations will drop when you feel pressure building up on the pedal
5. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all) - watch all the pretty air bubbles come out and then close the valve
6. Pull the clutch pedal up as high as it can move and hold it there for at least 30 seconds, I HAD TO DO THIS as we were moving too fast to start steps 2 thru 4 and not allowing the fluid in the reservoir to flow into the system. We wasted about 3 hrs because we didn't allow for this extra time and then we'd have a spungy pedal on the first pump and bubbles in the line, started the long pause after cracking the bleeder valve and we were done in 10 mins.
7. when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
Heres the process I had to take (majority of text copied from johnwig):
1. Make sure clutch pedal is adjusted properly, mine had been previously adjust and didn't have enough throw to really get things moving
2. slowly compress pedal and relase pedal (about 2 sec each way)
3. wait 10 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
4. repeat about 10 times - These iterations will drop when you feel pressure building up on the pedal
5. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all) - watch all the pretty air bubbles come out and then close the valve
6. Pull the clutch pedal up as high as it can move and hold it there for at least 30 seconds, I HAD TO DO THIS as we were moving too fast to start steps 2 thru 4 and not allowing the fluid in the reservoir to flow into the system. We wasted about 3 hrs because we didn't allow for this extra time and then we'd have a spungy pedal on the first pump and bubbles in the line, started the long pause after cracking the bleeder valve and we were done in 10 mins.
7. when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
^ Just FYI the service manual states
for whatever that's worth
Originally Posted by FSM
NOTE:
Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder
on this system. Use of a vacuum assist or power bleeder will not
purge all the air from the system.
Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder
on this system. Use of a vacuum assist or power bleeder will not
purge all the air from the system.
for whatever that's worth