Timing Chain Rattle Fix
Taken from pre-oiler thread. Started a new thread with new title for reference.
This looks like it will indeed be a fix for the timing chain startup rattle.
Fixed on a Maxima:
http://www.autoenginelube.com/satisf...sanmaxima.html
Here's the Kit to use:
http://www.autoenginelube.com/ordern...nelube1qt.html
==========================
They emailed me back to use Kit A a that it will fix the problem:
Joe,
Yes our prelube kit will solve the problem because it does exactly the same thing the oil pump does but before start up.
The A kit will be the best kit for your engine.
Thanks,
Frank
here is the instructions for you to see how easy it is to do.
1: Locate the best position for the oil storage tank and install the mounting brackets with ¼" bolts or self-tapping metal screws. The accumulator tank can be mounted at any angle.
2: Remove the oil pressure-sending unit on the engine and replace it with a tee fitting.
And connect the hose from the engine to the solenoid valve on the storage tank.
3: Run the positive wire from solenoid valve to the fuse block and attach it to a fuse that will supply 12-volt current to the solenoid valve when the key is on, then connect the ground wire from solenoid valve to the vehicle frame.
==========================
It's $240 bucks, and an easy install.
Should we maybe try a group buy?
This looks like it will indeed be a fix for the timing chain startup rattle.
Fixed on a Maxima:
http://www.autoenginelube.com/satisf...sanmaxima.html
Here's the Kit to use:
http://www.autoenginelube.com/ordern...nelube1qt.html
==========================
They emailed me back to use Kit A a that it will fix the problem:
Joe,
Yes our prelube kit will solve the problem because it does exactly the same thing the oil pump does but before start up.
The A kit will be the best kit for your engine.
Thanks,
Frank
here is the instructions for you to see how easy it is to do.
1: Locate the best position for the oil storage tank and install the mounting brackets with ¼" bolts or self-tapping metal screws. The accumulator tank can be mounted at any angle.
2: Remove the oil pressure-sending unit on the engine and replace it with a tee fitting.
And connect the hose from the engine to the solenoid valve on the storage tank.
3: Run the positive wire from solenoid valve to the fuse block and attach it to a fuse that will supply 12-volt current to the solenoid valve when the key is on, then connect the ground wire from solenoid valve to the vehicle frame.
==========================
It's $240 bucks, and an easy install.
Should we maybe try a group buy?
Last edited by JERZ350; Sep 16, 2011 at 08:00 AM.
Might just end up buying it, and being the guinea pig.....
Would you think to use the same amount of oil in the engine despite having the additional 9" pressurized can? ~5 quarts?
Would you think to use the same amount of oil in the engine despite having the additional 9" pressurized can? ~5 quarts?
Last edited by JERZ350; Sep 16, 2011 at 09:21 AM.
Just finished the install yesterday and started it this morning and didn't hear the rattle or anything for that matter at all! Sounded like a pretty smooth startup. I'm going to keep monitoring this for the next few days before I give a final verdict, but so far so good!
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Day 3, morning startups feel so much better. Might have heard a slight slight chirp, could have been my paranoid ears, but either way i'd have to say it's many times better now. I can post pictures of the installation, along with operating procedures.
I'm trying to find time to do it, it gets dark by the time i get home from work, and the Z is my DD. The kit is looked fine to me, straight forward. Brass fittings and strong oil hoses. Everything you need to do the install is included in the kit.
For me I could only really find 1 logical place to mount the bottle and run the hose. I will get around the pics, I'll probably take them when i change my oil, as the bottle is mounted at the bottom of the car.
The bottle is mounted directly behind the front drivers side bumper reflector. It has self-tabbing screws to hold the bottle in place. I ran the hose upward toward the top of the radiator. Then continued it along the top of the fan shroud, that's where i placed the solenoid and gauge for easy access. From there, the hose is routed back downward on the passenger side and connected to a T-fitting where the oil pressure sending unit was/is.
For the electrical part, you have to wire the solenoid to a fuse that is hot when you turn the key ON. I found that after driving the car, the oil pressure in a Z drops too low at idle to store enough pressure in the tank. So I decided to wire the solenoid to a manual switch that I can turn OFF to close the solenoid and trap oil/pressure whenever I want. So the amount of oil and pressure store in the tank varies day to day. In my opinion, you need at least around 80psi in order to deliver enough oil and pressure to help remedy the timing chain noise.
Usually what I do is, while I'm on the gas and cruising I flick the switch off and trap whatever the current oil pressure is at.
For me I could only really find 1 logical place to mount the bottle and run the hose. I will get around the pics, I'll probably take them when i change my oil, as the bottle is mounted at the bottom of the car.
The bottle is mounted directly behind the front drivers side bumper reflector. It has self-tabbing screws to hold the bottle in place. I ran the hose upward toward the top of the radiator. Then continued it along the top of the fan shroud, that's where i placed the solenoid and gauge for easy access. From there, the hose is routed back downward on the passenger side and connected to a T-fitting where the oil pressure sending unit was/is.
For the electrical part, you have to wire the solenoid to a fuse that is hot when you turn the key ON. I found that after driving the car, the oil pressure in a Z drops too low at idle to store enough pressure in the tank. So I decided to wire the solenoid to a manual switch that I can turn OFF to close the solenoid and trap oil/pressure whenever I want. So the amount of oil and pressure store in the tank varies day to day. In my opinion, you need at least around 80psi in order to deliver enough oil and pressure to help remedy the timing chain noise.
Usually what I do is, while I'm on the gas and cruising I flick the switch off and trap whatever the current oil pressure is at.
Alright so I completely forgot to update this. I had the kit running on the car for about a month or so. I can honestly say it helped quiet down the starts by about 80%. It would occasionally make a small small chatter but nothing like it used to.
All well and good until I noticed the hose started to bubble and I started leaking oil. So I figured it wasn't worth the risk of fixing it and not noticing in time any possibility of future leaks, so i trashed it...It was good while it lasted lol
All well and good until I noticed the hose started to bubble and I started leaking oil. So I figured it wasn't worth the risk of fixing it and not noticing in time any possibility of future leaks, so i trashed it...It was good while it lasted lol
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