So my CSC went out at a drifting event and we diagnosed it as being the Slave Cyl.

I decided i didnt want to replace it with the factory one so i picked up the Z speed heavy duty CSC.

Dropped the tranny and installed the new unit but now when i try to bleed the clutch the pedal is still sunk to the floor. I tried bleeding it for a good 40 minutes or so with my friend pressing the peday about 8-10 times and me releasing the bleeder screw...Basically following the same bleeding procedure i have with any car i have worked on.

Why is it the pedal wont return back to its original position??? I barely recieve any pressure even on the 8th pump and i have to manually "pull" the pedal back up to get the full range of motion out of the pedal to bleed it...

I am pretty stumped, ANY help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I'm sure there's just alot of air in there. Mine took 30 minutes b4 I got any pressure

 

so did you manually pull up on the pedal everytime when you were pumping it?

 

This happened to me on my jeep. Google "gravity bleeding" and give it a shot.

 

I tried gravity bleeding last night too.

It seems like i ran the full reservoir or more full of brake fluid through the system already...pedal is still sunk to the floor...So i know there is fresh fluid all throughout the system now...i just cant seem to get any pressure...

 

Have you checked the bleeding procedure of that Zspeedperformance heavy duty CSC.

I copied the procedure from their web try following this:

Bleeding Procedure2 people requiredDO NOT VACUUM BLEEDAfter installation of all lines and transmission is complete, Fill clutch reservoir with fresh dot 3 or 4 brake fluid, With bleeder at trans slightly loose pump pedal4-5 full strokes until fluid comes out of bleeder. Tighten bleeder screw Check fluid level and top off if needed* Pump pedal SLOWLY 8-10 times While holding pedal down open bleeder valve, after fluid flow/air stops close bleeder Return pedal to top position YOU MUST NOW WAIT for the master cylinder piston to return, this can take 30-45 seconds. Before the piston returns the pedal will feel limp, Once you can get a full pedal feel again you may continue bleeding. After you feel the pedal is firm again, pump pedal until firm from top and repeat bleeding procedure. It may be necessary to adjust the master cylinder adjustment rod at the top of the pedal assyto get it to bleed correctly and for full pedal return. If the adjustment at the pedal is too loose or too tight it will be hard to get it to bleed correctly and hard to get a full returning pedal. If your adjustment has never been touched you should not have to change it. Adjust master cylinder rod if needed by adjusting rod at top of pedal assy. There MUST be free play at the top pedal position. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us at 937-689-0905 or Email Spddracer@aol.com

 

Yea i followed their directions to the T. The only difference is the first half...then its just the conventional way of doing it...

I never adjusted the clutch pedal but the PO might have...is there any easy way to tell? maybe by measuring the rod or something?

 

yup, took 30 minutes before it started coming up by itself, then continued bleeding until all air was gone. look up power bleeding, maybe u can do that to get most of the air out to speed up the process, then do it manually. i believe motive makes one but you have to hold it against the master cylinder be cause it does not atach to our cars, i forget.

 

Well the FSM as well as the directions from z speed both specify that you are not supposed to vacuum bleed due to the design of the CSC...

 

Now don't be mistaken the MOTIVE Bleeder is a Pressure Bleeding system.

Vacuum bleed is when you are using shop air pressure connected to special bottle that sucks the clutch fluid out from the CSC niple.

Motive bleeder however is putting a special cap on top of the reservoir and pumping the fluid with about 10-15psi hand pump pressure to push the fluid through the CSC and out to niple.

 

its a pain in the *** lol it took me forever then throughout the week i would randomly fine tune the pedal adjustment and bleed again to get it right

 

I checked the pedal adjustment and it looks like it wasnt adjusted by the PO so im gona keep bleeding it...ill post back up if i solve this lol

 

Keep pumping until the pedal gets firm before you bleed, May take more than 8 pumps.

If the pedal is sticking down and just wont return no matter how many times you pump it you may have a master gunked up from the stock CSC failing over time, All the crap gets in the master and makes the piston inside it stick and not return which makes bleeding a pain. There are normally 1-2 threads showing on the pedal side of the master cyl adjustment clevis when it is correctly adjusted.

It takes about 20 minutes to pull the master out of the car, clean it out and reinstall. Or if you have higher miles, replace it. 2 nuts at the pedal inside, remove the hard line and reservoir line, pull master out, remove cir-clip, remove piston, clean and reinstall.

Feel free to give us a call if you need anymore help.

 

Sorry for not updating this. I guess i was just being impatient, after a good 45 minutes of bleeding i was able to get all the air out of the lines and everything seems good for now. Gota torque down the exhaust tonight and take it for a test drive...

 

Thanks! The HD CSC i picked up from you guys looks like a really legit part. And you guys managed to get it shipped to me exactly the day i needed it! Great customer service, i will be more than happy to purchase stuff from ya'll in the future

 

Well i went out sliding again at Thunderhill this sunday and it started kinda acting up again. I have the Master Cylinder unbolted so i can take it out and clean it like someone metioned in this thread before.

Could you fill me in as to what exactly i need to clean out? should i be taking apart the whole Master Cyl.?

The Pedal started feeling a bit mushy, and didnt want to come back on its own for the last 1-2" of travel. I got kinda scared i was going to get stranded at the track again so i cut my day short and left at noon (arghh). I was going to just rebleed the clutch but i decided to just bring it home and work on it.

Keep in mind that on the way back home it started acting normal again. So could this be that its gunked up at the Master Cyl? or i just have a bit of air in the line?

 

Give me a call.

 

Thanks for the advice! I will be looking forward to getting your prototype and trying it out this weekend.

I will hold off on cleaning the master untill i get the stuff from you. I need my car to drive tomorow anyways so ill just bolt the master back on and do it all this weekend. Feedback will come soon after!

 

Can you take a pic where you bleed the fluids?

 

Take a picture of what? the fluid?