Pat D

iTrader: (4)

For the last 2 months I've had a P0335 code popping up almost everytime the car is driven. Car stalls, drives jerky or uneven revs (1st sensor replacement was uneven revs, 2nd replacement was very jerky driving). The problem goes away after the car sits for a few hours, but comes back everytime its driven for more than 15 minutes. I installed a 3rd sensor this morning but the car wouldn't start. I noticed when I put it in it didn't seem to be a very tight fit, so I'm going to try a dealer sensor rather than the one I ordered online.

What could be causing this? I had the clutch and flywheel replaced 6 months ago, and 3 months ago I had the car overheat due to a stuck thermostat which was replaced. This was the next problem that popped up. I'd appreciate ANY insight on what I can check!

JaE35z

iTrader: (11)

What brand sensor have you been using?

zakmartin

Given that you're on CPS replacement number 3, I'd venture to guess that it's not the sensor that's the problem. I'd start by checking your wiring (voltages, control and ground) and then everything else connected to the sensor, including mechanical linkages and the ECU. If you can get your hands on a automotive lab scope, it'll make diagnosing the problem a lot simpler.

lbarge85

iTrader: (1)

you should also check your pickup wheel for debris

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

I had a problem with my Z a very long time ago that I ended up having to rebuild the motor. Anyways, when I put everything back together again I kept on getting a code for the CPS, but I had very low power and seemed boggy. I started messing around and threw in a Cam sensor. The car would crank over for 10sec until it would finally fire up. I had everything full power, no boggyness, but of course I was still getting the SES light on for that CPS code. So started messing around some more and to no luck I couldn't figure it out. So after 4months of dealing with it..... I took it to the stealership...... I had their top mechanic stumped for a whole day and a half until they finally came across that it was a bad flywheel sensor.

Now I saw that you had just installed a new flywheel which is why I'm bringing this up. It could possibly be the same solution I had. It wouldn't hurt to check it out. If some of my words don't make sense I'm drinking :P

mattleegee

Interesting on the flywheel sensor.

sub'd

Maybe have the dealer replace it and after fix ask why not running right? blame them?

Pat D

iTrader: (4)

The new one (and one of the previous ones) is a Beck Arnley sensor I got from Amazon. The new one is dead, I put the old one back in and it fired right up, so at least I know this one is a bad sensor. I'll grab a new one from the dealer and see how long i runs before it dies, typically it goes a week or two before messing up the new sensor.

Pat D

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I'll look at that next. Any idea if the flywheel sensor can't be checked from the outside? I'll call the shop that did the work on it Monday and see if they can take a look.

For the record it was a JWT clutch and flywheel package if it turns out thats the problem. Looks like someone else had the issue, I wish he would have followed up on the fix!
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...lp-please.html

Pat D

iTrader: (4)

New sensor had it fire up fine. I don't think theres even a remote chance I got consecutive bad sensors, but will drive it a bit until I can get it into the shop to check out.

Neimad

CKP (crank pos sensor) IS the flywheel sensor. You said it overheated, then the problem popped up, when it overheated was there coolant sprayed everywhere?

Are the sensors you keep throwing at it in ANY way damaged when you remove them?

It sounds like you have poor electrical contact in the circuit but as it warms up the connection is better; heat=expansion.

Pat D

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I didn't know if it was a separate item inside the housing that the CPS was getting a reading from.

When the car overheated it ran hot for a few days (at the top line), then died at a stoplight with boiling coolant. It never dumped any coolant though, the only time coolant got out of the system was when I pulled the thermostat and replaced it.

There was no damage on the sensors at all, but they were dirty (especially the first that had suffered through my old clutch).

The connection works fine cold, but after about 15 minutes of driving the code is thrown and the slip/vdc lights go on, once it cools off those 2 lights go off leaving the check engine light on with a CPS sensor code (0335 I believe). The last 2 times I got a code the car died within 5 minutes, and wouldn't restart until it cooled (this was with the old sensor). I'm going to see if the behavior is replicated with the new sensor, and check what I can in the meantime until this sensor dies.

Itzcashew

iTrader: (13)

I'd try a new OEM sensor. I had the same issues with the problem coming back while using Beck?Arnley and BWD sensors. Went OEM and it was good as new.

mistico

iTrader: (5)

I had this problem on my 06' about three years ago. I ended up having to replace the flywheel.

iknowitsfast

iTrader: (1)

I'm going through this now, I had my clutch replaced a few months ago but not the flywheel. Going to look into this. Man, I miss this site.

Toplezz Z

I had same thing come up on my 2004 350 roadster. Crankshaft Position Sensor..I went to dealership and they wanted $186 for replacement part.. looked online on Rockauto.com and Amazon.. price ranges from $45 to 165... didn't want to wait for shipment.. so I called AutoZone.. they had there brand for $39 with life time warranty.. they also had Hataci brand for $99 with one year warranty..I went with life time for $39 and My Car runs perfect.. noticed the one I took out had no O ring and the one I installed from AutoZone did..15 min to install... had no problems with new,crankshaft sensor....

GARYMM1187

My 2006 GT stalled on me last week, hesitated to start back up, and had tight steering afterwards. Cranked up fine on the next start minutes later and with normal steering, but S.E.S light came up. I pulled the code with the OBD gas pedal sequence, 0335, CKP.

Went on eBay and ordered a $79 shipped OEM replacement (superseded part#) now used in all the newer Nissan/Infinity models. Part arrived today so I installed it, reset ECU with OBD pedal sequence, the light went away, and car cranked right up without hesitation.

All is well now, I will update this thread if anything changes.

Hunter1212125