and can it be a flywheel ? wouldnt my car act strage or idle wrong? start less perfect? if the car was internally messed up?

 

Ok, I need the full story. Customer always leaves out the important stuff. You say fully built, how long after build did issue start? What parts used? Have you called this shop?
A code can be many things, the part experiencing the issue, the wiring, the ECM, or engine mechanical confusing system. This really sounds like engine mechanical from the build, and if it was a great shop they wouldnt have broken the connectors. They need to be unbolted, pulled out and unclipped in two hands.

 

Well there has just been issues but most unrelated to this.. Anyone that knows the car says its cursed. But ill list what the recent issueswere leading up to this.

-car became very sluggish and when i pressed the gas it just sounded like it was trying hard doing nothing like restricted. Also found the timing over advanced codes. At this time .

- after a week or so it started getting very responsove and fast Again. But it would come and go.

- then one day i got the check engine ,traction,slip lights. On my way home when it was "fast" again and it would not go safe mode but it would get slow. Id pull over restart it and it would become fast again . Id continue heading home. It did this to me a few times that day. I drove it easy.but i had to drive it for work . So by the end off the day it was getting more sensitive where id be on the highway and if i pushed to hard on the gas it wpuld trigger it . Untill the reset woul not help and it was in full safe mode .

And then here we are . And ive done both cam sensors from nissan and stil mainly getting the codes saying cam sensors but at times getting the timing over advanced bank 1 and 2 .. And its the first rev up that triggers the codes .

 

Also motor info

Eagle rods
Weisco pistons +.20 (compression is 11:1 now)
ARP everything
Complete nissan gasket and seals.
JWT 261 cams, and springs and retainers
ACL race bearings
HR oil pump
JWT intake and flywheel
Motordyne plenium spacer kit
Uprev tuning system
Megan headers/testpipes
Nismo s tune cat back
Spec stg 2clutch kit.
Fully balanced /blueprinted bottom end.

The shop that built the motor was good.
The shop that pulled it and put it in seemed to leave things like the plug. I fixed that tho seeing its been a year almost .

 

now if it was the timing control solenoids would it only throw those codes at times? and when i unplug them it runs the same but it shows new codes does this mean there not bad like when u unplug the MAF to see if it working or not?

 

It's doubtful everything went at once, thats why i'm leaning towards metal in the oil messing with the magnets in the postion sensors and plugging up the timing control solenoids. Had it happen on Honda K20 after it spun a bearing and we couldnt get the oil system free of debris.

 

Ok . So my question is how can u tell the sensors are bad? Like on my 2j i just test them for voltage. I fell like this is a money. Game lol. I wanna know whats up with the timing solinoids , ill open the valve covers this weekend. What to look for ? Metal? Marks on cams?

 

Can motor mounts or shaking play a part in this?

 

http://www.automotive.com/nissan/350...lls/t3-12-2-1/ ???

 

Thanks i have a 2004 tho. Im gonna check still just incase.

 

I don't think the sensors are bad. To test the sensors there is a functional test I can get you if you want it. Motor mounts would most likely not be the problem, possibly if they were totally gone. Think logically, something that causes problems on multiple sensors on an engine that has been re-engineered and installed by incompetent mechanics is most likely engine mechanical problem. Have I mentioned yet that I am Master Tech? I keep forgetting tell people that so they listen.

The sensors use a magnet to "see" the gaps on the ring on the end of the camshafts, the crankshaft uses the flywheel. These gaps give a voltage signal to the ECM, it should be _-_-_, on off in a square wave pattern. If there is debris in the oil it will mess with the gaps.

 

Oh cool man ! Didnt know you were a master tech. Well i guess im gonna start pulling the valve covers like you said . And ill inspect the cams. Now one other issue i have now is a oil leak looking to be the rear main. Not sure if that can affect anything. But yea of you can let me know how to test certain sensors that would be cool. I think my girlfriend might kill me if i dont have a car soon

 

 

 

 

Thanks man. Im gonna finish today. Its pretty much apart just have had zero time . Ill up date later ! Again big help just to have a guide to go by

 

So, I have inspected camshafts and inside valve covers, zero issues , very clean clean iol no metal at all, no metal in oil at all VERY CLEAN. cams do look good as well. Im gonna be putting this all back together today. And testing some circuts with the multi meter. if that is ok then I dont knoe. Im gonna try to buy a crank sensor from nissan. But I did switch to an extra one i had and it didnt change at all. Also wouldnt it throw a crank pos. sen code? ughhh. Still looking for a way to test the VTC solinoids.

 

INTAKE VALVE TIMING CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE


Disconnect intake valve timing control solenoid valve harness connector.













Check resistance between intake valve timing control solenoid valve terminals as follows.

 

Looks like some good info in this thread. I also have the p0011 and p0021 codes and have had them for a while. My engine's completely stock except for an intake. I have had the codes ever since I bought my car 3 years ago. I've changed cam sensors (with autozone brand, I will admit) with no change. Then I put the original ones back in. I've gotten a set of used KNOWN GOOD variable cam solenoids and thrown them on with no positive change in results. I've also changed out the crank sensor (again with an autozone brand) and the car would shut off and spit and sputter when on the test drive, so I pulled it back out and put the original one back in. My next thoughts were possible timing chain stretching just enough and/or tensioner going bad enought to throw the codes. This is where I am at right now since BOTH cams are over advanced, kinda thinking it would be one thing wrong instead of both cam sensors/ solenoids going bad at the same time. I'm not looking forward to pulling the front covers off the engine and finding out that the chain and tensioner are ok and aren't the problem... My car is constantly in limp mode and has been that way since I bought it...unless I clear the codes and then they will reappear after I shut the car off and start it back up. Still looking for someone that has fixed their problem.