RedBullRR

iTrader: (7)

It's fkn impossible to get all the air out of this system. Replaced my radiator cause the cheap plastic cracked on my oem. Still dealing with cold air at stops. Car does not over heat though. I used the Spill free funnel. It's just a *****.

KornerCarver

iTrader: (2)

Just a suggestion.............take your car to a radiator repair shop and have them resolve your problem.

RedBullRR

iTrader: (7)

I have a new radiator Dual Core Full Aluminum. No over heating issues. Just never get all the damn air out of system. I feel like this car naturally throws out cold air when stopped.

undertheradar

Just an observation but did you try to open the vent in the heater core line on the right rear bank of the engine also to burp the air from it? squeezing the hoses works to some point but there can still be air in the intake and such...

Per FSM:

REFILLING ENGINE COOLANT
1. Install reservoir tank if removed, and radiator drain plug.
2. Close and tighten cylinder block drain plugs securely if removed.
? Apply sealant to the threads of the cylinder block drain plugs.
? Use Genuine Thread Sealant or equivalent. Refer to MA-11, "RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND
LUBRICANTS".
3. Remove air relief plug on heater hose.
KBIA1021E
Radiator drain plug:
: 0.78 - 1.6 N•m (0.08 - 0.15 kg-m, 7 - 13 in-lb)
Cylinder block drain plug (LH):
: 17.6 - 21.6 N•m (1.8 - 2.2 kg-m, 13 - 15 ft-lb)
Cylinder block drain plug (RH):
: 17.6 - 21.6 N•m (1.8 - 2.2 kg-m, 13 - 15 ft-lb)
Cylinder block drain plug (Front side):
: 7.8 - 11.8 N.m (0.8 - 1.2 Kg-m, 69 - 104 in-lb)
PBIC1050E
CO-10
ENGINE COOLANT
Revision; 2004 April 2003 350Z
4. Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level.
? Pour engine coolant through coolant filler neck slowly of
less than 2 (2-1/8US qt,1-3/4 lmp qt) a minute to allow
air in system to escape.
? Use genuine Nissan Anti-freeze Coolant or equivalent
mixed with water (distilled or demineralized. Refer to MA-
11, "RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS".
? When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose,
install air relief plug with new O-ring.
5. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator
cap installed.
6. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle
speed.
? Repeat two or three times.
7. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).
? Cool down using a fan to reduce the time.
? If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.
8. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant.
9. Repeat steps 4 through 7 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer
drops.
10. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.
11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 r
pm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM.
? Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.
12. Repeat step 11 three times.
13. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 4 through 7 until engine coolant level no
longer drops.
? Clean excess engine coolant from engine.
FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Fill radiator with water until water spills from the air relief hole, then close air relief plug. Fill radiator and
reservoir tank with water and reinstall radiator cap.
2. Run engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
3. Rev engine two or three times under no-load.
4. Stop engine and wait until it cools down.
5. Drain the water from the system. Refer to CO-8, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until clear water begins to drain from the radiator.

RedBullRR

iTrader: (7)

^ LOL Yeah I've tried that. It does get air out, each and every time but not all of it...

SoCal-Greenz

iTrader: (1)

So guys after @undertheradar inspired me to look around for half the things he listed such as cylinder drain plugs.... (IDK wtf that looks like or what part it would be but I wanted to give it a go)

I didn't get to actually look for it cause I wanted to snoop around for any other clues. Idk what this plug is I broke but I took a picture of the lower portion as shown.... This is from my front bumper




Guys got any idea if that plays a role in this? Ill also go back under and look for the cylinder drain plugs... But I'll do it when I gather everything I need to replace the water pump to save some headache later

SoCal-Greenz

iTrader: (1)

Okay so whatever that plug is probably has nothing to do with my issue.. I took my original thermostat and clipped the holders for the spring so coolant could flow through without any blockage. I doing so I see that I'm running around 25-35% temp regular and below 50% when I'm pushing it. I wish I could always run it like this but I'm sure there is going to be some issue down the road that will arise from this.

U guys have any idea what I should do, keep it as so and ill be fine or _____??

sradenton

iTrader: (19)

I think thats the A/C drier canister.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Yup, that would be the AC filter dryer

RedBullRR

iTrader: (7)

Need some help guys.. I think I may have found were air was getting in. The T Kneck with the Bleeder valve snapped on my Car. Literally went to unscrew bleeder screw and as i grabbed it, it failed cracked and exploded antifreeze all over me.

I am searching and searching for options on replacing this. Can I replace this with a metal one, does anyone know the OEM part number for this. I can not find this for the life of me.

My car has sat for 4 weeks due to the snow and all out here. I am ready to use my car. Please help, thanks.

SoCal-Greenz

iTrader: (1)

Okay update****************



So I was totally right by cutting the thermostat before working on the water pump. I got a replacement one from autozone that was total trash didn't work for an hour. Then I cut my original thermostat. Ran it like that for a month till I bought a new one from nissan. Once I did I realized they updated it a little and iv been running cool since the swap.

I hope y'all find this thread useful in one way or another

Thanks ,
SOCAL-GREENZ

stascom

thanks

RedBullRR

iTrader: (7)

Do you have hot air coming out when you come to a stop?

No matter what I do, as soon as I come to a stop cold air blows. It's so fkn annoying to the point I'm ready to trade the car in. Never had a problem with bleeding air out of radiators.

Rochon_35_Ounce

I have been going through a similar problem. Finally did an extended pressure test at 22PSI on the radiator for 8 hours and on start I had white smoke. Very minor leak on the head gasket is blowing air into the coolant.

So heads are coming off and new gaskets are going in. Will take the heads to the machine shop and have them checked out while I have them off.