Watch out Jerry... he's got some ASE's so that means he's an engineer or something like that.

 

funny, next time you wanna be a smart *** how about the fact no one posting here is a mechanical engineer and i have more experience then anyone else posting and actually have done mechanical engineering work building third gen camaro suspension.

 

LOL... but he's got ASE's though.

 

oh look hes got no experience though, nor a z, nor even made any worthwhile amount of power, nor any mechanical ability at all and has to pay people like me.

nor ANY certification what so ever

 

I got the Fastenal shipment containing the M16x2.0x180mm bolt and it's not fully threaded, even though it said on the website that it is. I wont be able to use the second stud hole in the R51 FD cover. https://www.fastenal.com/web/product...32710180PF0000

 

I recommend buying all nuts and bolts from McMaster.com.

You can see a CAD drawing of each bolt before you order. You can even download a solidworks 3d model of the hardware.

 

Fastenal also has a drawing of each screw but the description and drawing are wrong. I was issued a refund on 2 bolts. I got a 1m, 8.8 class rod from McMaster. Have to pick it up tomorrow. McMaster doesn't have as much fasteners as Fastenal. I dropped off the used subframe at a NAPA machine shop to press out the rear bushing and the 2 small ones. I stripped a rod trying to take out the rear bushing, even though that method worked 2 years ago on the 05 subframe. I also broke a reciprocating saw trying to cut out the small bushings.

I also replaced the engine on the car and found some cracks in the front steel subframe, around the posts for the motor mounts. I'll have to weld it later from the bottom since it now has solid motor mounts which will crack it further if left as is.

 

The only thing left is to weld it tomorrow. I took out the damaged subframe, moved the suspension, rear FD bushing, and other stuff over to the new one. Drilled a hole for the second stud hole, cut the pipe and rod to size, used a 1/4 inch plate to reinforce the pipe/bushing on the back side of the subframe. I also upgraded the mounting hardware for the front FD bushings with some class 8.8 bolts.

I used this drill bit from McMaster to drill. Hss 1/2" Diameter Reduced-shank Drill Bit, 55/64", 6" Overall Length, 2.10" Drill Depth http://www.mcmaster.com/#2933a63/=pe844m

The pipe has to be welded on the 1/4 inch plate and against the FD cover. The 1/4 plate has to be welded on the back of the subframe, and the SPL rear FD bushing has to be welded in the subframe race.

I also had an exhaust which is 75% finished, but I wont be able to finish it because McMaster sent me a 3" pipe instead of 2.5" and I cant convert the test pipes to 3".

 

It's ready to go in the car tomorrow.

https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/...30025375_n.jpg

 

Nice work, just like the 380RS differential with two studs. But, wouldnt it just have been easier to get a differential brace and call it a day?!?! You sound like a smart guy though so I assume its just the OCD coming out to play ~

Throwing fuel on the fire but...just for the record, jerryd87s posts are the ones to read. I believe he emerged victorious from this discussion.

Cliffnotes: Solid motor mounts do not cause premature diff stud failure. Likely quite the opposite, in most cases they help as long as you take care to properly secure the diff to take care of the "axle wrap" forces (refer to post #56)

 

Nissan 380 rsc:

 

The 380 RS chassis I have not seen before and that's a Nismo FD cover on it. People broke the diff braces, SP and IP, and so it seemed the only real solution was to do what I knew the Pathfinder had. Since that RS is a 2008 race car, it's more of an indication Nissan knew of the problem all along. It would be interesting to find out who knew first and when it was first reported and to who. I'm guessing someone knew as early as 2003 or even 2002.


I haven't got an alignment yet to even know if that subframe is any good. But I do know it has positive camber at the moment SMH and it is likely because it hasn't been aligned yet. It has lifetime alignment but I don't have time to go.

 

"You have to hold on to what you own, not what you can afford." I tipped $20 for a job well done, and because I was happy my 50 hours of labor paid off. And I was almost right. The left rear had 0 camber.