Car feels extremely unstable going in a straight line
07-12-2013, 01:43 PM
#61
i swear im never going to get to try the different set of wheels on... i got home from the beach and cut the **** outta my leg with a kitchen knife that was wrapped up in a bag. got it stitched up and havent been able to walk on it for about a week now.
but today i was driving the car and i noticed theres a "roaring" noise coming from the back.. initially thought it was my differential because the 4.08 fd pumpkin i bought wasn't set up exactly right, but when i take a slight right or left turn the noise gets quieter. its really noticeable going in a straight line.
with that said, would that be faulty wheel bearings, and if so would that cause symptoms like i have been experiencing?
but today i was driving the car and i noticed theres a "roaring" noise coming from the back.. initially thought it was my differential because the 4.08 fd pumpkin i bought wasn't set up exactly right, but when i take a slight right or left turn the noise gets quieter. its really noticeable going in a straight line.
with that said, would that be faulty wheel bearings, and if so would that cause symptoms like i have been experiencing?
07-12-2013, 08:28 PM
#69
You will miss the Z, I know a few members here who weren't happy after trading to an Evo or Sti.
I drive the Z more due to these reasons:
You will lose looks from females and gain attention from mass sausages and Honda owners. You will miss the smooth revving VQ. You will be in car that not only is a sedan but feels like one as well. I say buy a project car on the side if you are like me and get bored easily.
I drive the Z more due to these reasons:
You will lose looks from females and gain attention from mass sausages and Honda owners. You will miss the smooth revving VQ. You will be in car that not only is a sedan but feels like one as well. I say buy a project car on the side if you are like me and get bored easily.
07-12-2013, 08:57 PM
#70
Haha. I know i'll miss the Z. but its just dropping in value so much i'd like to get something before its worth next to nothing.. this sti would also be a "financial" upgrade if you want to call it that. who knows.. if i get the sti, and miss the z, i'd be able to sell/trade it for a 370 if i wanted to because the value is right there w/ 370s
nada on my Z is 16.5k
nada on the sti is 23.5k
nada on my Z is 16.5k
nada on the sti is 23.5k
07-24-2013, 06:52 PM
#71
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I also have developed the same dancing/wagging motion at highway speeds at 70+ about 2 weeks ago right after I replaced my battery with a Optima red top and new rear tires (old ones were done) so I then got an alignment and that didn't help. I then replaced my rear diff bushings with Sikky's solid rear diff bushings (old ones were shot) and nothing. It really caught my attention more than ever yesterday when I was running a yellow 07 GTO from a 70 punch and hit 135, I did however beat him by a car and a half. I then thought tire pressure and noticed that Discount set my tire pressure at 35psi when I have alway ran 40psi, so today I set them back to 40psi and that really helped to calm it down around 70-80ish. I will post more on the tire pressure side of it tomorrow morning when I can really test it out on my way to work.
I have been running 370z sport wheels 19x9 245/35/19 with 20mm spacer and 19x10 285/35/19 with no spacers on BFG G-Force tires for 2yrs now and have never had an issue.
Things that I have changed in the past year.
- I replaced all of my front bushings with energy suspension bushings last summer, Checked them all out and still look good and feel strong & firm.
- Stance gr+pro coil-overs with upgraded Swift springs around January
I have been running 370z sport wheels 19x9 245/35/19 with 20mm spacer and 19x10 285/35/19 with no spacers on BFG G-Force tires for 2yrs now and have never had an issue.
Things that I have changed in the past year.
- I replaced all of my front bushings with energy suspension bushings last summer, Checked them all out and still look good and feel strong & firm.
- Stance gr+pro coil-overs with upgraded Swift springs around January
07-24-2013, 07:20 PM
#72
I am almost positive it's the mix-matched tires/tread patterns for me. I just started being able to walk "normal" again monday. once i get some time off work i will swap my friends stock z wheels onto my car and see if i have the same problem.
07-24-2013, 07:20 PM
#73
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are the springs on your coilover's preloaded......what u describe makes me think unsprung weight...wack travel, etc...
edit - nevermind...i just read page one, saw terrasmack pointed that out already...
-J
edit - nevermind...i just read page one, saw terrasmack pointed that out already...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 07-24-2013 at 07:22 PM.
07-24-2013, 07:31 PM
#74
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check the radius rods - #23
remove them and check the bushing on them - from that pic, it looks like you have the factory oem radius rods, check them for damage.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...suspension.jpg
-J
remove them and check the bushing on them - from that pic, it looks like you have the factory oem radius rods, check them for damage.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments...suspension.jpg
-J
07-24-2013, 08:58 PM
#75
I do have factory radius arms. Thanks, I will check them. Would damaged bushings at that location cause what I am feeling though?
-also, quick question.. i bought some aftermarket adjustable sway bar endlinks. whats the proper way to install them? do i simply just get it in the air, bolt the bottom one down then adjust the endlink to reach the swar bar? hope that makes sense..
-also, quick question.. i bought some aftermarket adjustable sway bar endlinks. whats the proper way to install them? do i simply just get it in the air, bolt the bottom one down then adjust the endlink to reach the swar bar? hope that makes sense..
Last edited by Bmurray350z; 07-24-2013 at 09:00 PM.
07-25-2013, 10:17 AM
#76
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I will have to test my car out tonight because there was too much traffic this morning on my way to work.
One other thing that wouldn't hurt to check is to make sure your front strutbar is adjusted correctly, could have came loose or something.
The proper procedure says to align all 4 holes on each end and mount the strutbar, loosen the locking nuts and then "tighten" the center nut by turning it 1.7 revolutions (toward the front of the car). This causes the bar to be preloaded or pushes the ends farther apart.
Some people say to jack the front of the car up and let the suspension hang to do it and others say you dont have too. I would lift the car and take the pressure off the suspension to do it.
One other thing that wouldn't hurt to check is to make sure your front strutbar is adjusted correctly, could have came loose or something.
The proper procedure says to align all 4 holes on each end and mount the strutbar, loosen the locking nuts and then "tighten" the center nut by turning it 1.7 revolutions (toward the front of the car). This causes the bar to be preloaded or pushes the ends farther apart.
Some people say to jack the front of the car up and let the suspension hang to do it and others say you dont have too. I would lift the car and take the pressure off the suspension to do it.
07-25-2013, 07:07 PM
#78
I will have to test my car out tonight because there was too much traffic this morning on my way to work.
One other thing that wouldn't hurt to check is to make sure your front strutbar is adjusted correctly, could have came loose or something.
The proper procedure says to align all 4 holes on each end and mount the strutbar, loosen the locking nuts and then "tighten" the center nut by turning it 1.7 revolutions (toward the front of the car). This causes the bar to be preloaded or pushes the ends farther apart.
Some people say to jack the front of the car up and let the suspension hang to do it and others say you dont have too. I would lift the car and take the pressure off the suspension to do it.
One other thing that wouldn't hurt to check is to make sure your front strutbar is adjusted correctly, could have came loose or something.
The proper procedure says to align all 4 holes on each end and mount the strutbar, loosen the locking nuts and then "tighten" the center nut by turning it 1.7 revolutions (toward the front of the car). This causes the bar to be preloaded or pushes the ends farther apart.
Some people say to jack the front of the car up and let the suspension hang to do it and others say you dont have too. I would lift the car and take the pressure off the suspension to do it.
yeah for the most part. i am going to look one more time though to make sure.
07-25-2013, 07:18 PM
#79
I had this when I swapped out my shocks. Felt floaty and unstable at speed. The SLIP light also came on. Turned out I had the rear toe way off. However, I see the alignment on your car looks pretty good. Did your slip light come on?
Last edited by ronn1; 07-26-2013 at 05:56 PM.