JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

yes, its the same type of suspension reaction on like a 4 bar/traction arm set up, its the accelerating decelerating forces that react in that direction...

its worth looking at.

start by measuring your car to begin with:
THEN,
- Car must be on a lift - all four wheels on the lift tracks that no one wheel is loaded more than the other....


Position the car at resting ride height on ramps or a 4 post automotive lift hoist where you can access the end links for adjustment. Adjust link length so sway bar is as close to our 90° - ideal as you can get it.

NOTE (front only): On cars that are purpose built for track/autocross use only, you may reduce binding and get a better spring rate curve during cornering by adjusting the links closer to 100° so that the relationship is closer to 90° at full compression of the suspension, where the link/bar will actually spend more time on track.

This is how most track cars are set.


-J

slmdchvy05

iTrader: (3)

My tire pressure was my problem

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I was going to suggest taking it to another alignment shop...I suspect the problem to be the toe. Camber won't cause that problem...unless it throws the toe off.

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

Well took it back to the alignment shop just because i have the lifetime alignment and its free as long as i own the car. i explained the problem and they did align it again..

here are the new specs:




they did get my steering wheel finally centered... still didn't fix the problem.

i only notice this problem on the interstate mainly when changing lanes.

so hopefully today i can try on a different set of wheels and see if that's the problem, if that doesnt fix it then i will install these aftermarket end links that i have.

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

alright guys.. *hopefully* found my problem.

i started to hear and grinding/roaring sound and thought it was my wheel bearings, well today it was terrible so i took a look at my front pads and they are toasted, and apparently one of the guide clips for my pass side front rotor fell out so the pad was moving freely and must've went deeper towards the rotor.

pictures..

front pass side inner pad:


inner pad on left, outer pad on right


again... look how the pad is bent.. WTF?!


backside of rotor where inner pad was eating it

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

Just read this thread and was about to say " I think its your Toe. Take it back to the alignment shop" until I read the last post. Your toe may continue to drop out of spec if you are running SPC toe bolts. They are crap and will round over (come out of round/ strip)


********************Edit: I see you are in fact running SPC toe bolts. That is 100% the cause of your problem. Take them off and inspect the washer. They will look like mine did. Read post #19 from the bleow thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html

To 100% correct the problem you will need some sort of adjustable midlink with "lock out kit" OR run a true coilover set up and remove and replace the spring bucket with adjustable toe arms, also with lockout kit. SPL makes a nice one but is $800: http://www.splparts.com/SPLRMLZ33.html. Not sure what other options there are for adj midlinks. Or you could buy a hand full of the SPC toe links and replace as necessary, and continue to frequent the alignment shop..

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

I've been running the spc bolts on this car for about 17k miles now with no problem. Also ran them on my old car with 0 problems. Don't think that's the problem.

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

These SPC bolts/washers, more so the washers will strip very easily. Most likely when you took it for the original alignment the mechanic "over powered the flat" causing "slop" in the washer. Check it. I bet you $50.00 that is it.


The cheap fix would be buy new SPC toe bolts/washers. Just washers if they sell them sep, and get a new alignment.
Correct fix would be purchase quality adj mid links and a lock out kit, or run toe arms with lock out kit, and get a new alignment

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

the bolts seem very tight... its actually up on a lift now. but i took a wrench and just put little pressure to see if the bolt felt loose and it doesnt at all. the washer is really tight as well doesn't move at all.

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

The bolt being tight does not have anything to due with the fact that your washer is most likely out of round. There is prob a few degrees of play. If you inspect the inner hole of the washer I bet it is deformed. See post 19 of linked thread.

Italianjoe1

iTrader: (6)

I've seen this happen with new rear tires, due to the camber these cars run. There's actually very little of the tire touching the road, and it gets worse when you are braking, leading to that rear-end wander. I got it with a new set of tires and no other changes, it took a couple hundred miles for them to wear in to the camber and all was well. It's very unsettling at first though.

I'd suggest running the tires softer than normal (maybe 28psi or so) until they settle down, as this will expedite the camber wear, then air them back to normal pressures so they can wear into normal shape.

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the info, if fixing the brakes doesn't fix it then i'll try that

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

Well... Fixed brake issue, and finally got a chance to swap my friends stock wheels/tires onto my car.......... and the issue is still there.

I've never been so frustrated I'm tempted to just take all the suspension off of it and put it back to stock.

Couple more things I am going to try:

1. Install the aftermarket adjustable endlinks
2. Take it to a different alignment shop

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

Sucks brah.

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

If you take your car back to the alignment shop I bet it is out of spec again. How do you think it came out of spec between the first and second trip to the alignment shop. Its your toe bolts. They will align it and get it into spec, but as soon as you drive it, it will come out of alignment, caused by your crappy toe bolts/washers. Moral of story...TOE.

I hope you don't think I'm being rude. Just want to help, and I know what your problem is.

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

If that is the problem, would new toe bolts solve the problem? Maybe a different brand toe bolt? Recommendation?

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

Just saw you edited the post above. I am going to look at that this week and will report back. Hopefully you're right.

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

New toe bolts would be an easy fix until they failed again. Not sure if anyone makes a decent toe bolt. This may be the best option for you if you have unlimited alignments.

The boss fix would be to buy an adjustable midlink as suggested earlier, and use a "lock out kit". A lock out kit is basically bolts with square washers that do not allow ANY movement. You could also run adjustable toe arms,but would need to change to a "true coilover" setup.

I run toe arms with lock out kit on a true coilover setup

**********Found a gem: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...sides-spc.html

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

thanks a lot.. i do think that may be the problem now. a local buddy has a set of toe bolts, so i'm going to buy them, get it re-aligned (i do have lifetime free alignments), and see if that fixes my issue. if that does fix the issue then i will save up for some toe arms and try to switch to true coilover style eventually.

labelworkshop75

iTrader: (13)

Be sure to inspect the bolts/washers and look for play. Post 19 of suspension 101 thread (attached) has pics of what to look for. Also be sure to let the alignment tech know to take it easy on the toe bolts. If he is going HAM on them, they will deform.