Well since we figured out that my clutch was trashed, I figured I would tackle this myself.

I followed the diy and it was very helpful.

I got the exhaust off, the driveshaft out, the shifter out and the wiring harness removed.

I put the jack in it, loosened the bell housing bolts, pulled the crossmember and then removed all the bolts from the bell housing and......I couldn't pull it off. I then proceeded to remove every single visible bolt from the transmission and still no joy.

The top bolts at 11:00 and 1:00 I removed as well. As far as I can tell, there is zero reason why the transmission won't back out. I yank and tug, lower and raise. But the two are permanently welded together.

What am I doing wrong? Is there a trick to this?

 

In for the answer. I'm curious as to the answer.

I've done this procedure on my 300ZX, but not the Z33.

 

Everyone, including the service manual, says to simply "roll it back and lower it"

But it ain't coming off.

 

there are what is suppose to be slip fit dowel pins that align the trans to engine. however when you start disassembling everything the engine and trans become misaligned so the dowel pins take on additional loads and create a lot of friction so the trans can't simple be slid back. In my case, i tried to align the engine and trans best as i could then literally used a pry bar to initially begin separating the two. In any case friction is your main culprit here ... so whatever way you can separate the two without damage is my advice. And for the record using a pry bar left some scratches however i made sure not to damage the actual mating faces..

 

If all the tranny-to-engine bolts are removed, and the crossmember is out, something is wrong. Your tranny may be hung up on the input shaft if there's severe damage to the clutch/flywheel. The only trick I can suggest is to put the jack back under the tranny and try "presuading" it by using a soft faced sledge to break it loose, while using g the jack to lift the case at different points. Make sure your jackstands are well placed, and be careful of liftng the car off the jack points.

 

What about the fork and ball?

Do I need to remove those too? That might be the issue.

 

In for results as well. Not to thread jack.. but I'm looking to replace my CSC this spring, and need to remove the tranny to get to it. The slave on the HR motor is internal?

 

every single bolt is out? including the ones in the upper oil pan on the engine because it has bolts that come in from either side? try a screwdriver to pry some, if a screw driver dosnt do it then theres a bolt somewhere holding it togeather.

 

The only bolts I saw on the engine side were two on the very bottom. I'm going to take a ton of pics tonight, maybe someone will see something i don't.

 

Yes, the HR slave is internal and you have to pull the tranny to get to it.

 

um....... stupid question........ is it an AT? if so you need to unbolt the flywheel from the torque converter?

if it MT, you need to jack up and down and use a prybar. There will be 2 small square notches to stick in the fork.

 

also the starter needs to be unbolted it has 2 tru bolts. I have replace 4 350z transmitions and installed numerouse engines.

 

Yep starter is out as well.

I guess I'm just gonna have to muscle this thing apart. That seems to be the consensus.

 

Ok thanks guys, I finally figured it out. There was actually a bolt at the very top that I had to get to from the engine bay. She came right out after that.


Thanks again guys. This while process ain't so bad. But we will see how this goes down when it all comes back together.

 

.02 if I may,
When I removed my transmission I spilled all of the fluid from where the drive shaft hooks up, after some reading on here I would recommend you replace it with only Nissan spec fluid.

It was 12$ a quart at my local Nissan dealership.

On here somewhere it says it takes 6.1 pints for a full fill which I think is 3.05 quarts.
I bought 4 quarts and it took almost all of it to fill it up.

Good Luck OP

 

Yeah I lost quite a bit of fluid.

My pressure plate did not fall off. I had to soak it in PB blaster and beat the living **** out of it with a sledge to get it off.

However, the clutch is indeed toast. Anyone want the old pressure plate? I'm just gonna throw it away.

Edit:
Oh and I have to say thank you to everyone again for all their contributions to this. Between the write ups and all the help I get when I ask for it, it reminds me of why I've stayed a member here for so long. I would not consider myself exorbanently mechanically inclined, just a average guy with average intelligence and a average amount of tools. It always shocks me when I undertake something like this to find that it isn't all that difficult, nor is it the voodoo magic that a shop would lead you to believe. But again, I wouldn't be able to do this if it wasn't for the support of you fine people.

 

Anyone know what the hose and hook coming off the top of the bell housing is for?

 

Alright.

So here's a update.

I installed the throw out bearing (koyo) onto the new throw out bearing. The solid side to the bearing sleeve and the rolling side facing away. I did it with my truck lol. I put a 4x4 on top of the sleeve, the bearing on the ground and then jacked up my H2. I slid the whole thing under the tire and lowered it onto it. Pressed it in nicely!

So questions:
1: How does one know when the sleeve is pressed into the tob far enough?
2: what kind of grease do I need to use when I put it on the input shaft? I have some Teflon grease. Would that be ok?
3: the koyo bearing looks a tad different than the one I removed. Is that right? The whole bearing/sleeve assembly is probably 1/4" taller than the one I removed.

I need to post some pics so others can see this stuff.

 

 

Alright.

Good talk guys.