Weird overheating problem[i need help bad!!!]
OK I HAVE A 2005[35TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION] 350Z WITH 145K MILES ON IT,
I CHANGED THE:
- WATER PUMP
- THERMASTAT
- WATER VALVE
- RADIATOR
- COOLANT TEMP SENSOR
And the damn car still overheats?
Idk whats wrong with it, I even took it in to the dealership and after 4 days of studying it they couldnt find the problem so the suggested to junk it, but I Love Z when I get tired of my SRT-4[Don't Judge].
Can I please get all the Opinions and ideas please.
Idk whats wrong with it, I even took it in to the dealership and after 4 days of studying it they couldnt find the problem so the suggested to junk it, but I Love Z when I get tired of my SRT-4[Don't Judge].
Can I please get all the Opinions and ideas please.
Yeah they work sort of, what they do is turn on and off once, and when they turn back on for the second time they stay on and don't come off and that is when my temp needle moves up.
Blown Head Gasket?
Otherwise you have a ton of air in system.
Lift front of car slightly so radiator is sitting higher then motor, invest in a spill free funnel and continue filling up till you see all bubbles go away while motor is on. Rev to 4K a few times till heat starts coming out of your vents.
Otherwise you have a ton of air in system.
Lift front of car slightly so radiator is sitting higher then motor, invest in a spill free funnel and continue filling up till you see all bubbles go away while motor is on. Rev to 4K a few times till heat starts coming out of your vents.
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The car doesnt over heat until the second fan kicks on. Once its on it will not turn off. As mentioned we have replaced the water pump, thermostat, coolant temp sensor, spark plugs, oil & filter, radiator and the heater connector. The heater comes on sometimes it just blows cool air. If i keep the revs above 3000rpms the heat comes through, but as soon as I drop it to idling rpms it goes cold again?????
Everything is working correctly, but its overheating. The engine isnt even hot and you can touch it it a little. The radiator cap is also cool. The lower in take hose from the radiator into the thermostat is also cold, while the return into the radiator is hot.
Any help right now would be appreicated...Thanks
Everything is working correctly, but its overheating. The engine isnt even hot and you can touch it it a little. The radiator cap is also cool. The lower in take hose from the radiator into the thermostat is also cold, while the return into the radiator is hot.
Any help right now would be appreicated...Thanks
The Heater blowing cool or ambient temperature air is a VERY good sign that there is still air in the system. I agree with RedBull as well with the "elevated" bleed technique but make sure you are on a flat surface before you do it. If you have a normal, graded driveway you should only have to take the car up a few inches.
When should I rev up to 4k while the spill free funnel is attached, or what.
and while the car is on we are supposed to fill the radiator back up, and how would we know exactly when all the bubble are gone, because once it hits normal temp it starts to boil a bit. So can you please give us detailed step by step instructions please.
and while the car is on we are supposed to fill the radiator back up, and how would we know exactly when all the bubble are gone, because once it hits normal temp it starts to boil a bit. So can you please give us detailed step by step instructions please.
are u sure ur new thermostat is opening?????
i have spent many a hours diagnosing problems with car when the new parts were installed and that they "couldn't possibly be bad".
sounds like its stuck to me. check the simple things first, if u have gotten all the air out of the cooling system check to make sure ur t stat opens.
and the cold air thing, really makes me think its not flowing the coolant...
i have spent many a hours diagnosing problems with car when the new parts were installed and that they "couldn't possibly be bad".
sounds like its stuck to me. check the simple things first, if u have gotten all the air out of the cooling system check to make sure ur t stat opens.
and the cold air thing, really makes me think its not flowing the coolant...
Last edited by cudaben; Oct 10, 2013 at 07:28 PM.
A bad radiator cap can make bleeding coolant system impossible. You bleed it, and soon the air is back into the system through bad radiator cap. It's inexpensive, change it if you didn't already.
It’s very unusual to get stumped when solving an overheating problem.
The dealer certainly has the resources to solve this. If “they [the dealership] couldn’t find the problem so [sic] they suggested to junk it,” it was probably a serious problem (i.e., a warped head allowing coolant into the engine).
A warped head that allowed coolant into the engine would mean the engine is shot and now the car is gone… and, BabyGod{Z}illa is possibly gone from here as well.
--Spike
A warped head that allowed coolant into the engine would mean the engine is shot and now the car is gone… and, BabyGod{Z}illa is possibly gone from here as well.
--Spike
lol. Funny that is exactly what happened to my engine few months back.
My coolant level mysteriously kept draining without any signs of leak. One day the engine just stopped. Boom! Warped head. Found some coolant in the exhausts
My coolant level mysteriously kept draining without any signs of leak. One day the engine just stopped. Boom! Warped head. Found some coolant in the exhausts
Sorry Dudes, work has been busy.
But it was a warped head gasket that wasn't even all the way around, and it had pieces of the heater connector in the radiator.
So we dissected the engine and cleaned everything up.
It runs like a champ.
But it was a warped head gasket that wasn't even all the way around, and it had pieces of the heater connector in the radiator.
So we dissected the engine and cleaned everything up.
It runs like a champ.







