2003 Nissan 350z. Bone stock. Went to Nissan to get alignment. All wheels good except rear left. I was told it could not be put into correct specification due to subframe damage. When I was shown the issue, it appeared that the raised area around the eccentric bolt was ground down possibly due to air impact? Havent messed with rear end at all myself maybe from a prior alignment...I will get pics up when I take a look again myself.

Alignment specs per Nissan:
Front caster left: 8.9
Front caster right: 9.0
Front Left Camber-0.9
Front Right Camber: -1.4
Rear Left Camber: -2.3
Rear Right Camber: -2.1

Toe Front Left: .05
Toe Front Right: .08
Toe Rear Left: .00
Toe Rear Right: .02
Thrust Angle: -0.0
Total Toe: .13

Sucks....I'm pissed.....it was most likely firestone. Either way question is WTF do I do? If I tried an SPC toe bolt would it help me at all? Like I said I will have pics up soon.

 

The front has more cross-camber than the rear?

I can understand you wanting to fix/replace a broken part, but the actual alignment specs look more symetrical on the rear of the car than the front. ie the rear looks "better" than the front.

 

Ok pictures. The pics are labeled to the location. The main focus of these pics is the driver's side as that was what I was told was the problem area. One area of concern is I believe the radius rod. Im assuming this is what they are using for toe adjustment? I thought that maybe the spring bucket was for toe maybe I'm wrong? Anyway, for consideration can anyone tell me if this damage is repairable can I put an adjustable radius rod on? Do I drill it out and use a SPC toe bolt? thanks for anyones help.

 

Also I have attached the alignment sheet I got from Nissan.

 

It looks like the sheet with the pics just shows a default "jacked up" wheel angle when something is out of spec.

The toe differential in the rear is no worse than the front. From a drivability/tirewear perspective the cross-camber on the FRONT of the vehicle is your biggest issue at the moment.

I would eventually get some components that don't use eccentric bolts to deal with the issue in the rear, (Only because I wouldn't want the alignment to shift if the eccentric bolt isn't really secured well)

 

Could I use an adjustable front lower link instead? Would the SPC toe bolt kit maybe help with more adjustability? I am trying to explore avenues to fix the rear.

 

if its only the eccentric bolt on the camber arm (tubular arm without the bucket and has a small bend in middle of it). Then replace the camber arms with adjustable ones and replace the eccentric bolt with lock-out bolt/washer kits. This will allow all the camber adjustment to be made on the arm itself and leave the bolt locked in place.

 

I appreciate the suggestion canadarob. So something like this?

http://www.spcalignment.com/componen...AFrom&to=USATo