redboostzed

I have a 2006 350z 6spd with the aps single turbo kit. Some time ago, a little too much oil was put in the car by mistake and the cam sensors and crank position sensor apparently went bad. The car would crank, and run for a moment, but then the rpm needle would jump up and down like crazy reving up and down, like I was touching the gas pedal myself but I wasnt, and if I tried to rev it up, the rpms would just go up and down and it would stop at and certain point and just sputter and backfire like launch control or something, and then eventually stall and die. After a short wait, the car would crank back up, but if I tried to restart it immediately after it stalled, it would make that same sputtering, backfiring launch control type noise when I kept the key turned but it would not turn over, just kept sputtering and backfiring. While trying my best to make the car drive, it would just jerk violently back and forth, along with the same crazy rpm activity from the needle which did not coincide with the actual rpms of the motor, and would without fail stall after a moment and die. I replaced the cam sensors that were bad with oem sensors and the crank position sensor with an autozone one because that's all that was available at the time. The car still would not work. However, when you unplug the crank position sensor, the car would take a long time to turn over, but it would, and would even run and drive. There was no boost, and if you tried to give it and serious gas it would hit a fuel cut and even with the pedal mashed all the way down, the rpms would continue to fall, and only once I let off the gas for a moment and then resumed throttling would the car begin to accelerate again. It ran, but not well at all. No power and unless feathered just right while driving, shifting at 3k or below, Otherwise hello fuel cut And bog down. I changed the oil, went to nissan and bought an oem sensor, as I heard the parts store sensors were crap. I paid 150 dollars, non refundable, for this new crank position sensor, installed it, and did an ecu reset with the pedal twice for good measure, and it did not fix the problem at all. The same exact stuff is occurring. I am at my wits end and don't know what to do any more, i have thrown so much money, time and sweat into this im starting to get pissed. I checked the codes and the codes showing up are p0335 twice, p1078 twice, and p1084 twice. These are the same codes ive been having. does anyone know how to fix this? thank you in advance for any advice.

verdict.

Thread moved to Maintenance & Repair

jhc

Redboostzed,
I have an 06 also. Looks like you've done a great deal of homework but no worky. Try changing out your neg(-) battery cable, they are prone to corrosion inside the vinyl. That should clear the codes, too.

By the way, that's a loooooong-a$$ paragraph, how many miles?

redboostzed

I've done more worky than research. I've done all the sensors myself most people quit. Unplugging the battery isn't going to help me. Lol. Anyone else??

jhc

You missed the point,
Corrosion you can't see drops the amperage to the ecu, and changes fuel/air ratios, causing phantom codes.
Hope you get it sorted.

redboostzed

Battery is new and if that was the case I don't think simply unplugging the crank sensor would make the car run magically or in your case, reverse corrosion of my ecu. Thank you for trying to help though. Anyone else?

redboostzed

Anybody?

jhc

No, no , no. You misunderstood...
No worky simply means the effort you made didn't correct the problem.

redboostzed

Still looking for a solution

adrift_foolish1

You're removing sensors, driving, going wot and trying to get into boost with a car that isn't running right. Stop all of that. Take it to a competent mechanic before you destroy your car.

ps Overfilling your car with oil will not destroy your cam & crank sensors.

redboostzed

I haven't been taking out sensors and driving trying to get full boost at wide open throttle, guy. I merely stated that when the sensor is unhooked, it will stay running and drive, plugged in it wont, so it has to be something to do with that sensor. I haven't been trying get into boost, I clearly stated it won't go into boost. Haven't been driving it, try and help before you pass judgement, my competence is just fine thanks.

adrift_foolish1

So it won't run with the crank sensor plugged in, but it will with it unplugged.

You just said that when you give it "serious gas" was after you unplugged the crank sensor.


Need different information, its possible you caused the cam and crank codes when you replaced the sensors and didn't clear. What ecu are you running, uprev,haltech, etc. What is your vacuum at idle, what are the fuel trims, is this a map based system, check your timing. What is the very last thing you did to the car before it started doing this
Again, overfilling the oil won't cause the sensors to go bad, need to know everything else that happened.

redboostzed

Using oem with uprev. This video shows the problem and the vacuum. The last thing was the extra oil. Here is the video. Note that I am reving it to show that it is running fine until the shenanigans start at 2:14 into the video, and it eventually stalls and turns off, every time, especially if I try to drive it. Also note that after 2:14, I am not letting the revs fall, this is the problem. My foot is still on the gas and the revs should continue to climb however they are thrown back down by the car. Somebody please help

Spike100

I was having a problem similar to what you describe. The code pulled was p0335. I replaced the crankshaft position sensors. The problem was repaired for a short time, and then came back. It turned out being a short in the crankshaft position sensor harness.

You are also getting codes for a faulty exhaust valve timing control position sensor. I’m sorry but I have no experience with this.

redboostzed

Thanks for the reply spike, what exactly did you replace for the harness? Is it hardwired into the main harness? Or is it a single piece with plastic connectors on each end, one end connecting to the main harness/ecu and the other connecting to the sensor? How much was it and how much trouble was it/how many shop hours to install?

laurentj23

iTrader: (1)

Does it throw any codes?

redboostzed

Yes I put them in the original post

redboostzed

???

Spike100

Replacing the crankshaft position sensor harness was simple. The harness replacement was a plug-in on both ends. My car is a 2003 350z, so it may not be the same simple fix for your 2006 car.

redboostzed

It might be. Where did you purchase the wiring harness for the sensor? I have googled crank position sensor wiring, crank position harness, lots of didn't mixs and matches of those words and have not come up with anything. Part Number? Thanks man