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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 07:02 AM
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Default Transmission Fluid Flush (Manual)

I have my 2003 z33 Touring and am looking to flush my transmission. I tried looking into my owner's manual, (maybe I didn't read thru it thoroughly enough), but where exactly is the transmission oil drain plug? Also, exactly how much and what type/brand of transmission fluid should I use? My 3rd gear synchro is a little bad when shifting, as it grinds when shifting at high rpms. Before I decide to do a complete rebuild in the coming future, I wanna see if flushing out my tranny will make a difference. Thanks guys
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 07:44 AM
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The drain plug is on the bottom of the transmission and the fill plug is on the side, about halfway up on the transmission. Be sure you take the fill plug out before you drain the oil. The manual states you need API GL-4, Viscosity SAE 75W-85. That should be pretty easy to find at any auto parts store. I'm guessing here but I think a couple quarts should be enough.

Last edited by KornerCarver; Mar 4, 2015 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 08:55 AM
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You know what they say...
RTFM
(or SEARCH)

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nis...e-manuals.html

(index so you know what the names are)
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2003/fwd.pdf

(manual transmission specifically p10)
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2003/mt.pdf
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 08:57 AM
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Fsm ftw!
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 10:00 AM
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Wellllllllllllll..... the drain plug isn't on top of the tranny. Heh heh.

Just a couple of quick datapoints (how you use them is up to you):

As KornerKarver pointed out, the proper rated gearbox fluid is important and critical! (API GL-4, Viscosity SAE 75W-85) Especially on those pesky early "3rd gear says what? Gronk? Wuzdatmean?" trannies.

Deviating from spec can and usually will end up in slipping (due to lack of and/or too many) proper modifiers in the oil.

I also would shy away from chemical transmission flushes as they will remove the natural-from-use built up varnishes and coatings on the synchonizers, also resulting in worsening of the grinding due to slippage.

Just drain and fill.

But, from my experience with said gronky transmission, swapping fluid (even to a high end oil like Lucas or Redline MTL) won't help a dying synchro. Just gotta live with it and finesse your gear changes until you SWAP it out for a CD009 transmission - the only TRUE cure for a wonky trans.

Just for reference, this configuration "chart" explains why the CD009 lacks the typical 3rd gear problem (courtesy of BusyBadger, a mod on Nicoclub forum):

2003 6MT
Double cone synchronizers in 1st and 2nd
No triple cone synchronizers

2004 6MT
Double cone synchronizers in 1st, 3rd, 4th
Triple cone synchronizer in 2nd

2005 CD008
Double cone synchronizers in 1st, 3rd, 4th
Triple cone synchronizer in 2nd

2005 CD009
Double cone synchronizer in 4th
Triple cone synchronizer in 1st, 2nd, 3rd
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
Wellllllllllllll..... the drain plug isn't on top of the tranny. Heh heh.

Just a couple of quick datapoints (how you use them is up to you):

As KornerKarver pointed out, the proper rated gearbox fluid is important and critical! (API GL-4, Viscosity SAE 75W-85) Especially on those pesky early "3rd gear says what? Gronk? Wuzdatmean?" trannies.

Deviating from spec can and usually will end up in slipping (due to lack of and/or too many) proper modifiers in the oil.

I also would shy away from chemical transmission flushes as they will remove the natural-from-use built up varnishes and coatings on the synchonizers, also resulting in worsening of the grinding due to slippage.

Just drain and fill.

But, from my experience with said gronky transmission, swapping fluid (even to a high end oil like Lucas or Redline MTL) won't help a dying synchro. Just gotta live with it and finesse your gear changes until you SWAP it out for a CD009 transmission - the only TRUE cure for a wonky trans.

Just for reference, this configuration "chart" explains why the CD009 lacks the typical 3rd gear problem (courtesy of BusyBadger, a mod on Nicoclub forum):

2003 6MT
Double cone synchronizers in 1st and 2nd
No triple cone synchronizers

2004 6MT
Double cone synchronizers in 1st, 3rd, 4th
Triple cone synchronizer in 2nd

2005 CD008
Double cone synchronizers in 1st, 3rd, 4th
Triple cone synchronizer in 2nd

2005 CD009
Double cone synchronizer in 4th
Triple cone synchronizer in 1st, 2nd, 3rd
Thanks for that info man. About how many quarts of oil does the tranny typically hold? and would you say it's worth getting a rebuild/replacing the syncro while keeping the original tranny as opposed to getting an entirely new transmission unit to replace the original one? Does the transmission also have an oil filter? If so, I'd most likely replace the filter too
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 07:44 PM
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The synchro's will still go bad again on a rebuilt transmission.

This is just an FYI, I'm not telling you to go out and buy a CD009.
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Syner
The synchro's will still go bad again on a rebuilt transmission.

This is just an FYI, I'm not telling you to go out and buy a CD009.
What Syner said.

Look at the synchronizer config.... triple cone on bottom three gears on CD009 as compared to the first gen tranny with NO triples. The 009 unit is just beefier overall. Design flaw in that first gen.
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Old Mar 4, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CNunes_95
Thanks for that info man. About how many quarts of oil does the tranny typically hold? and would you say it's worth getting a rebuild/replacing the syncro while keeping the original tranny as opposed to getting an entirely new transmission unit to replace the original one? Does the transmission also have an oil filter? If so, I'd most likely replace the filter too
Usually 2 1/2 to 3 quarts is enough. Make sure the Z is level when you're draining and refilling. There is no oil filter as the system is a closed loop. The tranny oil coming out may still look fresh, but it gets crunched pretty well over time. I recommend Redline MT85 as it fits all OEM specs and has enough friction engineered in to allow the syncos to work properly.
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dkmura
Usually 2 1/2 to 3 quarts is enough. Make sure the Z is level when you're draining and refilling. There is no oil filter as the system is a closed loop. The tranny oil coming out may still look fresh, but it gets crunched pretty well over time. I recommend Redline MT85 as it fits all OEM specs and has enough friction engineered in to allow the syncos to work properly.
is it possible to replace the original synchro (whether its a double or no cone synchro) with a third cone synchro in an 03 6MT? I'm assuming that any walmart or auto parts store will have the oil? Might just buy 3 quarts of the oil and bring it to my mechanic since New York is mother nature's snow magnet
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CNunes_95
is it possible to replace the original synchro (whether its a double or no cone synchro) with a third cone synchro in an 03 6MT? I'm assuming that any walmart or auto parts store will have the oil? Might just buy 3 quarts of the oil and bring it to my mechanic since New York is mother nature's snow magnet
That's a da*n good question about "upgrading" the 3rd gear synchronizer. Hmmmm.... I'm inclined to think "no" but maybe someone knows if this is possible? A rebuild with such an upgrade might save a fair amount of $$ possibly?

Anyone?

Z1 sells them new
. <=====Linkee

Not cheap but brand new!
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
That's a da*n good question about "upgrading" the 3rd gear synchronizer. Hmmmm.... I'm inclined to think "no" but maybe someone knows if this is possible? A rebuild with such an upgrade might save a fair amount of $$ possibly?

Anyone?

Z1 sells them new
. <=====Linkee

Not cheap but brand new!
As far as I know, it's not possible, and I don't recall seeing anyone try.
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